WD45 - engine coming out

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   sploke, Sure hope you have better luck than me and my current 45. Its been a year since I pulled the engine in mine. Turned into a much larger, more interesting, and more expensive project than I had anticipated!
Yes low pressure testing revealed the cracks in my block between the sleeves. Wishing you the best. But your headed in the right direction. I still like them enough to fix them.
Regards,
 Chris 

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Sugarmaker Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sugarmaker Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 12:39pm
	sploke, Sure hope you have better luck than me and my current 45. Its been a year since I pulled the engine in mine. Turned into a much larger, more interesting, and more expensive project than I had anticipated! Yes low pressure testing revealed the cracks in my block between the sleeves. Wishing you the best. But your headed in the right direction. I still like them enough to fix them. Regards, Chris
	D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.

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Don(MO) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862	Post Options Post Reply Quote Don(MO) Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 8:22am
	I'd call your parts store and rent a "radiator pressure tester" take your cap along to get the right one to fit your tractor. Don't pressurize over 7 PSI!!!
	3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

sploke Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 27 Jul 2015 Location: CT Points: 113	Post Options Post Reply Quote sploke Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 7:48am
	Good advice. I still have to get the hood off and all that to see what I'm doing, so I will do that before disconnecting everything. What's the best way to pressurize the cooling system, throw together some sort of plug for the radiator cap I can put an air hose on? I'd imagine it should only take a few pounds of pressure for a leak to manifest...

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19572	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 7:36am
	You need to determine exactly what your coolant leak is FIRST !! You may have a cracked BLOCK !!! Remove the oil pan and valve cover and pressurize the cooling system and see where it's coming from FIRST !! before pulling the engine...………….

sploke Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 27 Jul 2015 Location: CT Points: 113	Post Options Post Reply Quote sploke Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 7:32am
	I have two problems I will be addressing here very shortly with my WD45. The first is a ton of coolant getting into the oil. I'm hoping it is as simple as a bad freeze plug in the head, but I will see once I get it opened up. The second is a massive oil leak at the rear crank seal. The upper section, of course. I dropped the oil pan and replaced the oil pan gaskets, and the leak is still there, running down the face of the engine crankshaft output. It will dump close to a quart an hour while running. My intent is to drain everything, pull the engine and put it on a stand, flip it over and change the seals. The engine was supposedly rebuilt by a friend of the previous owner, but everything else will get at least a good inspection while I'm in there....is there anything else I should keep an eye out for while I have her opened up?