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B Replaced fuel lines etc new problem |
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Posted: 18 Feb 2019 at 3:21pm |
Hi guys
Hoping one of the b professionals can advise on some issues please So I replaced the fuel lines today finally. Basically replacing all the old flexi hose that a previous owner had installed. I took all the old stuff of and the air cleaner of last week so the carb had been open to fresh air for a week but covered with a cloth so nothing got in. I also added a proper gravity fed fuel filter. I plumbed all the new stuff in today and fuel is flowing in to the carb great. But......it didn’t want to start and after the 10th pull on the starting handle I gave up. Any obvious explanations to this? Might the float have dried stuck or something in the time the old lines weee off awaiting the new? Also why does fuel drip from the little hole to the right of the drain screw on the bottom of the zenith carb? Is this an overflow? Sorry to ask so many silly questions Cheers |
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chaskaduo
Orange Level Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5203 |
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Check this video out you my want to try it yourself, and make a vid of it.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77909 |
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I don't know what carb you have, but normally the "LITTLE HOLE" is where the fuel runs out if the float is stuck DOWN and the bowl overflows... you could bang on the side of the carb with a 12 oz hammer ( don't hit it hard and bust the bowl)... sometimes the shock will knock the float loose and then be OK... it will stop dripping, then might start. Right how you are probably flooded......... the stuck float happens to a couple of my tractors every spring from setting all winter and the fuel evaporates and float drops down.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082 |
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If fuel was dripping out the bottom when you started cranking you very likely fouled (shorted out) the plugs with gas. Or what is called being flooded. It is not uncommon to remove a carburetor and lay it upside down or on its side and have the float valve not seal when first re installed. Most of the time it is from fines breaking lose and getting lodged in the seat. You can always find fines in the threads where the gas line fittings screw into the carburetor. Sometimes it will clear up with running. Shut the gas off and turn it back on after you start the engine. If it starts normal with the gas off you will know if it is flooding when it is dripping. Then when you shut it off watch to see if it is still dripping and then shut the gas off. I have three tractors that will from time to time drain the tank empty if I don't shut the gas off.
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Thanks very much for the reply’s guys.
Cheers |
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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also its a zenith carb not sure on the exact model but a us seller is selling the exaxt same type for $255 on ebay at the moment (danstractorshop is the seller i think)
is there an easier way of starting these things? mine has so much compression which i know is a good thing. how difficult is the conversion to ignition start? what would i need? battery, coil starter and dizzy?
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082 |
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A torque tube with starter hole and flywheel with ring gear.
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HoughMade
Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Location: Valparaiso, IN Points: 691 |
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Just a couple of opinions, for whatever they're worth. Cleaning carb and reassembling it isn't rocket science. It's not even "professional mechanic" difficult. Get the manual, some solvents and some brushes (I like old toothbrushes and spray gun brushes) and go to town. I normally don't buy "rebuild" kits. I get a gasket set and then only replace parts that are work to the point of not functioning. usually the only thing I may replace (and not every time) is the float needle and seat. Everything else cleans up. In 20 years of working on carbs from motorcycles to tractors, I've never had to replace a jet unless I was rejetting to correct for a modification. The only way I would buy a carb would be physical damage from impact or overwhelming corrosion. In the end a well cleaned carb with the proper parts replaced if necessary is at least as good as a new carb...some would say better. As for electric start, there's no need to ditch a magneto for it. My '51 B has a rebuilt mag and electric start and it fires off within about one revolution every time. Personally, I like the simplicity of the mag and the resulting simplicity of the electrical system (with the original generator, starter and lights it's about 5 wires).
Edited by HoughMade - 19 Feb 2019 at 9:17am |
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1951 B
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3894 |
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After you've cleaned the carb make sure you pull the emulsion tube and clean it many times I've pulled apart a carb that had just been done and find small grit hair or fibers around the outside of the tube you can't get that clean without removing it. Have your wife drag you around the yard and pull start it. Once it's warmed up and properly adjusted. Both timing and carb it should start easy with the hand crank. Make sure the impulse coupler is working correctly. My C would start by the second pull of the crank even after sitting for months. Dads C was started most of the time using the crank the old 6 volt needed to have the come tigons cleaned any time it sat for a couple months and giving the crank a pull it would start right up.
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4414 |
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If you want to convert it to electric start (as Dick L says), you will need a torque tube with a starter mount, a ring gear on your flywheel, a starter, a battery box, battery cables and a starter.
I have one that is converted and uses a 12 volt battery. Since it is still a magneto, the battery only starts the tractor. It has no charging system. I charge the battery periodically, when I have started it a few times (usually 2 - 3 times every summer). It saves the expense and problems of mounting an alternator to charge it.
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chaskaduo
Orange Level Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5203 |
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If your Leary of rebuilding the carb ya might not want to tackle splitting the B to change the torque tube and flywheel/ring gear. It can be very dangerous with the weights involved. Don't know your mechanical level, definitely need to research it. Most guys on here grew up wrenching on tractors and are more than willing to help with information.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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2011dandd
Silver Level Joined: 25 Jul 2018 Location: Northants uk Points: 106 |
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Cheers for all the help. Really appreciate it you guys are are very helpful.
Have rebuilt lots of carbs in my time but I’m weary because parts and kits over in the UK are so hard to find and most stuff I would need to order from the US for quality . Frustrating really |
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082 |
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Before I was taking pictures I bought a crank start B that had an electric motor belted to the power takeoff. The engine was stuck so I never tried it. It had a large pully on the power takeoff and a small one on the motor. It had steel bar stock welded to the drawbar that the motor was hinged on. It didn't have a belt on it but looked like they would have plugged the motor in and pressed down on the motor to tighten the belt.
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2598 |
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This summer I got my first crank start tractor. A 39 B. It didn't want to start either but after fixing other things and with some help from here I finally got it to run. I think they all are specific in how they like to be started. You just have to learn what they like. Have you tried pull starting it? I will admit I hated that tractor to start but now it may end up being one of my favorites. Learned alot from that tractor. Good luck. I take a q-tip with some polishing compound and put the q-tip in a drill and polish the float seat. Don't know if it's the proper way but seems to make the float needle work better.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5642 |
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Dan- like MDM says... They're women- each one has it's own 'way' of liking to start... So here's what MY '39B demands: With fuel petcock off... place throttle lever in about 1/3 open. Open fuel petcock. Close choke Pull crank through three compression cycles Open choke halfway pull crank through fourth, and it fires. --Wait for about 30 seconds, modulate the choke a little bit 'till it sounds happy, wait another 20 seconds, open the choke, and WALK AWAY for 5 minutes. Do it any other way, it ain't gonna go- just turn off the fuel, open the choke and walk away- it's pissed off for an hour. That being said, when I follow the program, it doesn't give a hoot if it's a 22C warm and sunny, sweltering 40C, or -30C nightmare of high wind and drifting snow- it fires up EVERY TIME. Just don't make it do something it don't like. Remember- it's a tractor, you married it. Edited by DaveKamp - 20 Feb 2019 at 6:56pm |
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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KerryM
Silver Level Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Location: Central Iowa Points: 101 |
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DaveKamp... that is what I call Wisdom! |
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1950 C, 1952 CA, 1961 D17 (Dads last tractor)
1944 Farmall B, 1947 Farmall B, Bobcat 610 |
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