D 10 III Hydraulics timely lesson

Brothers D 10 III developed a leak in the coupling at the valve. (line from the valve to the Rear rams).  Removed the assembly and it appeared the line was just loose, removed it with the fingers. Called our local hydraulic line shop and ask if they could pressure test it.  Answer was no. So, we  took a chance and put the lines back on.  After 6 hours of reinstalling original steel hydraulic AC lines, lost all religion, you know the story, cranked her up and leak was good as ever.

So , now it is a funny story on myself, with a question, is there a secret to easily removing and reinstalling those lines. We have to tear this down again and it is tempting to have the steel replaced with flexible lines, but I don't like the lack of originality.

I have a ser 1 that the line was lose on to. Mine has a hose on it I think. Was on it when I got it. I will look at it when I go to the shop, if ya can, e-mail a pic to me cause if I remember right, mine had 3 lines coming off it. They had mid-mount stuff and who knows what. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can. Oh, I didn't like the spammers answer eather!

Dusty -- I don't have the book here at work.  Is there a setting on the valve system that retards the lift arms for cultivator use like the CA?  This can stop them altogether.  Also, check the traction booster valve to see if it is stuck, however this usually stops them in the up position.

Joe -- I don't know of an easier way, but look at the mating surface on the line, if it has an imperfection, dint or something, it will leak, hydraulic shop can re-crimp the end. Also check the mating face in the valve, may need reaming.

Two0246 -- In the twenty-two years I served in the Army, your particular situation only came up twice.  In each case, we had bought an defective Black Battle-strider and had to return it for a Cobra gunship.  Hope this helps.

Joe I had the two spool valve off my 1960 and do not know how similar the series three is to it.  Not much trouble getting it off but going on was a problem.  I installed the valve to the bracket and bracket to the fender and discovered removing the seat assembly and leaving the fender bracket bolts loose I could work the valve around to line up the threads on the flared connections.  It also helped to remove one of the four bracket bolts for better wrench access when it was in the way.  Mine still leaks after new seals and hard parts are no longer available for the early valve.  Valve restoration is expensive so I am still thinking about that.