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Front Crankshaft Seal

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 1:03pm
Aaron,
Some shots of various things that might help. And yes that engine support need to come out. I just loaded up a bunch as I started the project. Hard to know what may or may not help you. No magic here.

















Some of these show the old sealing material and gasket in place when I first pulled the pan.

Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Jan 2019 at 1:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 1:12pm
Aaron,
Pan clean up

Alignment pins



Trial fit









Hope this helps a little. As mentioned Don(MO) has a good video on this work. That is what i used as a guide too.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 1:43pm
Aaron,
Careful what you ask for!:) I found the pictures from the other tractor maybe these will help too? Guess I dont have any pictures of the rear main seal and "F" gaskets" under the rear main cap?? Maybe I was dreaming it?:)
Total front end was off this tractor, including frame rails and pedestal too. 


This is a good shot of the front crank seal too. I had put a Speedy sleeve on the crank prior to the timing cover going on. You have to make sure the timing cover is aligned with the crank too.




Regards,
 Chris




Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Jan 2019 at 1:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 1:52pm
Here's my video on pan/front and rear main seal replacement. hope it helps.
Don 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 7:30pm
Sugarmaker, I ordered the gasket set through Napa today. I need to order the gasket retaining clips. I also picked up some Lion gasket Shellac. When you put the gasket on do you use the shellac on both sides or RTV. Also can the F gaskets be changes when the engine is in the tractor or do you have to pull the engine.
Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 8:39pm
Well, I know I put them in both the tractors with out pulling the engine. Rear main cap has to come off. Watch for shims and their location. And then re-torque main cap after seal and gaskets. (I believe this is correct, just having a mental lapse, guess it could be because I am a year older today?:))
Dons rear seal replacement should show that. I may have to go look too, as I will have to do another one of these this spring.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 9:52pm
Chris, Happy Birthday! By the way thanks for the pictures. The Napa gasket set shows 3 end pan seal pieces in the picture shouldn’t there be 4? 2 different sizes. Which does the wd45 use the wider one or the thinner one?
Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 10:04pm
Chris, which agco front main seal is the correct part number? There are 2 in there part book one is 70229229 which says use before SN 289000 the other is 70226620 which says use after SN 289000. Which one is correct? I assume be serial number it means the tractor Serial number not the engine serial number.
Thanks Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:57am
Yes I would assume tractor serial number too not engine. 

(Just a note if you work on enough of these you may find that the tractor has been repaired and have a different rear with different serial number). 

I don't remember if I even ordered the seal from AGCO? I may have just orderd a lip seal from my local bearing company, based on dimensions? Don(MO) Or Dr Allis may have the AGCO part number available. I am pretty sure some of the original seals from the factory were of a felt type and I am really not sure they are still available? Guess I am not able to help you much on this one without doing some digging!:)

Aaron,
 You lost me on the NAPA gaskets and combo? I think you should have 6 pc fo rthe oil pan gasket change. 2 for the ends (following the round shape) 2 flat ones for the sides and then the 2 "F" gaskets. Its been a wilie and I did not get mine from NAPA. I got mine from Sandy Lake.

Regards,
 Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:17am
I’ll wait till I get it apart and then get a number off the seal. The NAPA set has 2 side gaskets 3 end gaskets 2 f gaskets and the rear main seal.
Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 12:15pm
Aaron,
 Sounds good on the gasket set from NAPA.
I know you can call several of the suppliers on here and get the crank shaft seal.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:39pm
Ok, I got the crank pulley off and I can’t see any numbers on the seal. It is a rubber lip seal. I assume that’s what I want to put back since they probably seal better than felt seals. Also, can I get it out with a screwdriver or should I buy a seal puller. Or remove the timing cover.
Thanks for all your help
Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 9:01pm
289000 is an engine serial number. They never made that many WD-series tractors in total, somewhere around 235,000 or so. There were always more engines made than tractors for gen-sets, merry-go-round engines, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:07pm
DrAllis, Thanks I got the seal out I used a paint can opener bent it straight put it inside the seal clamped a pair of vise grips onto it. Tapped them with a hammer it came right out. I dont see any numbers on the seal. But according to Steiner there seal part# ABC1996 is a rubber lip seal and will work before SN 269166 you just dont reuse the seal retainer. Which means it should work on my
tractor since it didnt have a retainer. There don’t seem to be any grooves wore into the Crankshaft. Is it better to replace the seal with a rubber lip type or a felt?
Aaron

Edited by Allis Wd45 - 05 Jan 2019 at 2:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 1:43am
I also noticed that the governor linkage going into the governor has some play in the bushing and looks to be leaking a little oil. How hard is it to replace the seal and bushing there. Do you have to remove the distributor to replace the bushing? I’m not sure 100% but it looks like the timing cover may be seeping a little also.
Aaron

Edited by Allis Wd45 - 05 Jan 2019 at 2:43am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 7:46am
If you are going to work on the bushings in the front cover the cover will need to come off first.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 7:48am
Aaron,
 You are setting your self up for pulling this engine! I seen your thread on oil pressure too.
 The bushings for the cross shaft in the front cover can be changed but I think you may have to pull the cover. I did replace a set in one tractor. Good job getting the seal out. I didnt think you would find numbers. New seal will be a rubber lip type. Distributor can stay in place when you remove the front cover.
Sounds like its leaking in all the right places too!:) Good time to do these projects!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 9:19am
I still say that pulling the engine is actually the easier way to fix the oil pan leaks. If you do pull it, you will be amazed how easy it is and how much easier it is to work on the engine. It's also easier to put just the engine into a clean heated place to work on it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 9:25am
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

I still say that pulling the engine is actually the easier way to fix the oil pan leaks. If you do pull it, you will be amazed how easy it is and how much easier it is to work on the engine. It's also easier to put just the engine into a clean heated place to work on it!
X2.
I'd remove the engine too if you are going to stop all the oil leaks.Smile
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 5:27am
The more of these I read, the more I DON'T WANT to pull mine.  Heck, it's a work tractor, not a show piece.  MAYBE,,,,,,,some day.
"Allis-Express"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 1:50pm
TedJ mine is a work tractor and kind of a show tractor. We’ll see how it goes back together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 1:52pm
Another thing I’ve noticed is the tractor never has gotten the temp guage into the green area. Even when baling hay when it’s 90 degrees out. It normally runs at about 160 degrees. Is that ok or would it be better to put a 180 degree thermostat in? What issues could be created by putting in a hotter thermostat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 5:47pm
I don’t understand what you guys mean by centering the timing cover on the cankshaft. Are you centering the cover it’s self or the seal? Can you please clarify. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:14pm
I talk about the front seal and cover in the video, if you watch it a lot of the questions will be answered.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:40pm
Aaron,
Yes the timing cover is installed loose then the crank seal hole in the cover needs to be centered around the crank shaft. Don uses a simple tube for this. I used a drill bit at three places. Then the cover is tightened down.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:11pm
Ok thanks Chris. Don I didn’t remember seeing anything about that in your video I will watch it again thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:29pm
Don mentions that Allis sells or had a tool for this task too. Basically a close fitting I.D. /O.D tube to slip over the crank and into the cover prior to the seal being installed. I just don't know the dimensions of what the tube size needs to be.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:31pm
I start talking in the video about the front cover/seal around 28.00. hope it helps. 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Don mentions that Allis sells or had a tool for this task too. Basically a close fitting I.D. /O.D tube to slip over the crank and into the cover prior to the seal being installed. I just don't know the dimensions of what the tube size needs to be.
Regards,
 Chris
Chris I don't remember the sizesOuch but it's the OD of the seal for the OD of the tool and the OD of the crankshaft at the seal area for the ID of the tool. it's made from PVC pipe.   
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 8:18pm
Don, I watched the video, A 1-1/2” piece of pvc pipe fits the crank snug. But does the out side of the pipe have to fit the timing cover snug also?
Thanks, Aaron
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