Next project: 7060

Agco is actually cheaper on the cab air filter.

Nice looking 7060!

 I'm glad it all worked out for you, that's a very nice looking tractor. .    Tim

Good job! That had to be a pretty great sound hearing it run!

Today it runs!!! It took a few tries of getting the air bubbles worked out, then it started and ran smoothly!! It revs good, and purrs like a kitten.
I did replace the air filters, so that should be good.

We got the injectors in, now all that’s left is getting the lines hooked up, putting the hand primer on, putting the alternator back on, then it should be ready to crank.
We usually don’t run the bio diesel, but I think it only has problems when it sits around. This tractor won’t sit around anymore now!! It pays to keep them moving.
Hopefully tomorrow it’ll be warmer, and we can start it then. We would have almost got it today, but it was cold at 20 degrees this morning, and by late afternoon the windchill was -5!

Edited by Orange Glow - 28 Dec 2018 at 8:59pm

They did have to replace the cam ring, and they had three pages of other stuff, coming to $1,200 parts, and around $900 labor.
I got the pump and lines mounted, now for the injectors, then I’m going to replace the fan, alternator, and A/C belts. As long as I don’t freeze into place, that is!!
Hopefully it runs good now, it better!!!

WOW! $2200? Ouch! They only get that high in my shop when major components are needed, like a head & rotor, cam ring, or housing. Hope it runs good now!

Well, I have the pump and injectors back from rebuild, and $2,200 less in my pocket!!
They said everything was gummed up good, and the shut off cam and metering arm were broke off and laying in the pump. So, that left plenty of room for improvement, which means it has a good chance at running now!!
I’ll try and get it put together tomorrow, and maybe try to start it again.
The alternator checked out good, luckily.
As soon as it’s running good, I’ll change the oil and bring it the five miles home, then work on the manifold and maybe the turbo as well.
I have been trying to pick up all the filters for it, and Napa’s cab air filter was $93!! The outer engine air filter was $40, and I haven’t got the prices on the rest yet.

If that tractor still has a Niehoff alternator,and if it's bad, I wouldn't waste the time or money on it. Just get a Delco with a tach correcting pulley and be done with it.

injpumpEd wrote: take the top cover off pump first to look inside and see how it looks. If clean, you can always try running a hose from a clean fuel can right to the inlet of the injection pump, center rear. If it's working right, it should suck fuel out and start squirting out the loosened lines in short time.

Just from looking in the timing plate, it was brown and gummy looking. I got the timing mark found, got the pump off and took everything into town for rebuild and cleaning, including all the lines except the large one from the tank, and also took the injectors in.
It really ought to run after this, as that had to be the problem. It should be all done by Wednesday.

While I have the alternator off, it’s going to another town to be checked out, and (hopefully not) rebuilt.
The next job to do on it is to get the manifold off, and replace it. While it’s that far apart, I’m thinking the turbo ought to get checked out, and it’ll probably need $500-600 of work.
I’m fairly confident that it will run well after all this, hopefully by next weekend.

take the top cover off pump first to look inside and see how it looks. If clean, you can always try running a hose from a clean fuel can right to the inlet of the injection pump, center rear. If it's working right, it should suck fuel out and start squirting out the loosened lines in short time. 

You might try Bobby Henard Tire Service for used rears.

Odds are the metering valve at least is stuck and very likely the plungers are stuck too. The Roosa pumps don't like sitting in old fuel, especially modern fuel lol! I feel if it was going to work, it would have started squirting fuel by now. When they are stuck, I generally have to tap plungers out with a hammer and punch after teardown. I'd take the top cover off and see what it looks like inside. That will definitely give an idea on which direction to go. If it's nasty inside, do not force it to run like that, it may end up seizing the head. Then it gets a lot more pricey to fix. Good luck!

allisrutledge wrote: This may be a silly question but is it warm in your shop when your trying to start it?

If you don't already know...ask for procedure before just pulling pump off.