CA engine rebuild

Reassembled the rods and put the main caps in the block. Ready for the machine shop. Even printed out my own purchase order with critical info and what I want done, to eliminate foul ups.

And Sugarmaker, you can expect progress to slow a bit. I am reading your 45 thread from start to finish. I have looked at it from time to time, and even commented once on it awhile ago. Last night I decided to read the whole thing at once to get caught up. Got to like page 17 and had to go to bed, so I will finish it later today. I sure hope I can work on tractors like you do when ( and IF) I am able to retire.

Sugarmaker, the broken out holes is where the front bolts to the block. I would guess that the front was being removed and the studs came out of the block with the nuts on one side and was loose while being taken out on the other side with the front not supported. When the bottom stud was almost out the front wend side ways breaking out the last thread on the bottom and breaking off the top stud as it fell. I saw pictures in the past where people had removed the front tires before removing the front. I could see the heavy front getting away from me and made sure when jacking and blocking the engine to remove the front that the front tires were on the ground with only the weight off the tires. I then hooked the engine lift to the top with two of the radiator support bolt holes with a chain.
I never thought of taking pictures of that.

The above is only a guess and speculation but I would bet I am not far off.

Line bore and size four rods is $204

Marv you do nice work, I really enjoy your pictures.  Thanks for sharing with us,    Mark

littlemarv wrote: During the summer I thought "I'll just pop the motor out and throw an overhaul kit in it"   Sounds simple, right?   My list went from   Overhaul kit   to   Overhaul kit, thermostat, water pump, belt, carb kit, clutch work, oil pump kit, gasket set, fly weights, spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, ring gear, lifters, valve guides, seat, seals, freeze plugs, rocker pads resurfaced, and I'm not even done inspecting yet!   Jeez!

You know it's never that simple.

Marv,

 

Slowly getting parts cleaned

 

 

 

Got the cam and crank cleaned up and measured. I'm a little worried about this one thrust face on the crank. It is a little galled. I think they weld this surface up and turn it back to spec? I sanded it a little and its smooth again, I will have to test fit when I get new bearings and see how much end play I have.

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

Judging by the stamping on the crank, the mains are 0.020" under, and the rods are 0.010"

 

 

Measured the mains and rod journals, 4 ways in two different spots on each journal. Everything checks out real good there, good deal.

 

Measured the cam journals the same way. Checks out good. Measured the cam bearings. Its interesting how if you measure horizontally where there is no load, the bearings measure like new. But when you measure vertically, where all the load is, they are 0.003" over the wear limit. So a new set of standard cam bearings should suffice.

 

If the camshaft journals are worn excessively, you used to be able to get cam bearings 0.002" undersize. Don't know if you can still get them for this motor, I got a set for my WC. Really a neat idea.

 

At work, I never throw away the anti corrosive paper that machined parts are wrapped in. I have a big Ziplock bag in my toolbox at work, and another one on my shelf at home. Wrapped up the cam and crank and stored them away for now.

 

 

Need to clean the block next, then I have to find and get an overhaul kit coming. I think they needed the new main bearings last time when I had a block line bored.

 

As far as the cam goes, I'm not getting it reground. Can lifters be resurfaced to the correct shape, or just ground flat so they at least aren't cupped?  Or are they hardened that shouldn't be machined off?

 

Thanks for looking.

Edited by littlemarv - 30 Nov 2018 at 7:00pm

If I was you I would put in all new lifters and have the camshaft ground to spec. Well not quite! I would have the camshaft ground but it is questionable to have it actually ground to spec.
I sent mine to Crane Cam in Florida for a slight up tic. I recondition my lifters when they are not as hollowed out like those are. They are supposed to be high in the center with a slight dome shape. Camshaft lobes might look like the ends are rounded as well under close inspection.


I see you know what your doing. Good deal with the pictures parts marking. I most generally tossed everything in pails and pans then sort to get the correct parts out of more than one engine parts in the pail.      

Yep and I would’ve almost put money on the wrist pin bore of that #2 piston being cracked also but yessir...good you tore it down.

Great thread, Marv. I'm enjoying this....one day I'll have the courage to do what you're doing. I've got a CA whose engine has started to smoke a bit....or maybe once you've finished practicing on yours....................

Got my over bore kit today! Gonna need some serious machining on the block...

Great pic's on the tear down of the CA engine. Yea not sure why I think I need one of these unit? But I have to get the current project back together first! Your bench/ table looks about right to me! They do take on a sprawl. I like the bolts in a box storage. I am usually very un-organized. Finding the correct std bolts and having them clean and organized is not one of my strong points! 

Nice job,winter is always a good time for teardowns. And from the looks of that #2 piston skirt it was good you did this when you did...it’s a wonder the wrist pin bore isn’t broke or cracked which could’ve birthed more gremlins. Also to go along with what Dick was saying when you get the front gov unit cleaned check for possible hairline fractures.Its not likely to have one and oil coming by the shaft is likely the issue. I say this because years back my dad picked up a nice C that someone ‘attempted’ to restore and hooked up all the controls bassackerds and hung the gov wide open only to when we straightened it all out and back together we found a hairline crack on the front face.Fixable but we didn’t catch it the first time.

I have a cheep harbor freight engine stand. I think it's was around $30. I'd hate to go back to man handling a block around. It so nice to pull the pin and rotate the engine around up side down for lower end stuff and right side up for pistons and cylinder head.i like your engine replacement fitting. When I need to move a dissasembled tractor out of the shop I can pick it up with the loader but it's a pain to get one balanced when your alone.

Edited by Dakota Dave - 24 Nov 2018 at 11:12pm