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CTuckerNWIL 
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 Topic: CA engine rebuild
Posted: 22 May 2019 at 9:50am |
 littlemarv wrote:
Here is the story on the leaf vac. Its not done yet. |
Thanks for the link. I missed this when you posted evidently.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 21 May 2019 at 5:45pm |
Here is the story on the leaf vac. Its not done yet.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 21 May 2019 at 9:31am |
Thanks for the link Gerald! I need to do a brake job on my CA, this helps a lot!
Marv, nice work on the CA. There could be an overhaul in my future and this thread will be valuable.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 21 May 2019 at 9:13am |
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 21 May 2019 at 7:57am |
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Show us more of your leaf vac. I have an old blower here from an old vac trailer, and would like to put it to use.
My first thought on that block off gasket, was the back port on the WD that just had a flat plat to cover it. The WC's use to have both ports in the top of the head connected to the top rad hose. Sometime , they switched to just using the front port.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 21 May 2019 at 7:11am |
Ryan, Thank you for the documentation on the engine work and the installation. Since I am not familiar with the CA tractors, I will use this as a reference. Great work with your son helping! Really enjoyed following along with you. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 20 May 2019 at 11:15pm |
Finally getting back on the job. The month of May with two active kids is just a mad rush to the end of school. At any rate, this is the closest thing I could find for a thermostat gasket in the gasket set that came with the overhaul kit. Had to trim the ID to get it to fit over the thermostat. And what the hell is this? A thermostat block off gasket? Modified it for my application. Ahhh yes, the "overtightened and leaking so tighten it some more" oil filter base! Sanded it down flat again. Reinstalled it (probably overtightened it) Well, here we go with that newfangled distributor thing. Got my "center" mark in the middle of the hole, Got the setscrew pointing straight up (nevermind that run in the paint, that was already there!) And, both push rods are loose. What more could you want? Installed the whole distributor assembly a few times, took a couple tries before I got it to line up with the #1 plug wire. Junior taking care of a few miscellaneous odds and ends. Made a new gasket for the radiator mount bracket. Now here is the definition of trust- Handing a hammer to a 10 year old standing on a chair and holding the punch for him! Put a little silicone on the joints above the oil pan gasket. I hold gaskets in place with tiny zip ties. You can put the pan up, start 4 bolts, then snip them and gently pull them out and install the rest of the bolts. Years ago, I read several of Roger Welch's books. In the one where he resurrects a WC ( I think) he talks about some plastic pieces called "snap ups" or something like that. They hold the gasket up and you pull them out after starting all the other bolts. I have absolutely no idea why that popped into my mind while I was installing the pan. Maybe I should read his books again. Anyways, gave everything up top a good dousing of oil. Relax, I cleaned and flushed that jug thoroughly before using it for engine oil. I didn't have enough hands to video the initial startup, and junior was nowhere to be found. But I can't believe how fast the engine fired up. However, it was laboring pretty bad. Loosened up the distributor and turned it a little counterclockwise till it smoothed out nice. So there we are, right back where we started. I'm going to check the timing with a timing light yet. Other than that, I will probably change the oil after a few hours, and we should be good to go. I thought about a dyno run to break in the engine, but it may have to break in on my lawn, when it stops raining. I would like to thank everyone for the advice and help with parts along the way. Hopefully I never see the inside of this engine again. Actually, that's my goal every time I'm in an engine. Thanks for looking!
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 9:13am |
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Gasket goes between the housing and stat. A spring holds the stat in place. I have made a new bottom plate that bolts to the bottom of the housing. I have the plates for sale if you need one.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 7:50am |
Ryan, The bottom work bench picture looks a lot like mine most of the time. I amaze myself that I can get anything done on 14 feet of work bench and a 4 inch square area to work! Nice job getting the engine installed! Gives me some incentive! Good use of the 3/8 extensions too! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 30 Apr 2019 at 7:51am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 30 Apr 2019 at 7:11am |
Shop manual shows a gasket under the thermostat. Likely there to keep coolant from leaking around the thermostat, but might not be all bad if some does. Nice trick with the 3/8" extensions - I'll have to remember that one. I'm not going to say anything about your ability to trash a workbench as I have real skills there myself! 
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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littlemarv
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 10:04pm |
Installed the new needle and seat in the carb. The old one, which was shown in a picture earlier, relied on gravity to pull the needle down. The new one has the wire clip that goes on the float to pull down on it. I wonder if the old Viton tipped one was sticking for that reason? I guess we will see. Got the tractor out of storage. Jacked it up, removed the front end and my "engine replacer". Pulled the throwout bearing and installed a new one. I couldn't get the old one off by hand, but the puller pulled it off with ease. Rolled the table over to it and swung the engine into position. Discovered that 3/8" extensions make pretty good line up dowels. I sanded the bolster a little right around where the crank pulley goes- there seemed to be two high spots. I took the oil pan down, squeezed a tiny bead of silicone on the edge of the front cover gasket, and bolted the bolster tight. Put the oil pan back up for now without the gasket. Good grief, from this to this, in less than 45 minutes! Note the massive shed antler I found in the clean bench picture! Got the manifold and carb installed, generator installed, new water pump, etc. Test fit the thermostat. I took the rubber and brass piece out, and cleaned the housing. The stat fits in a recess in the housing so nice, I can't see where a gasket should go. Any ideas, otherwise it goes together as is. Thanks for looking.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 24 Apr 2019 at 8:27am |
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x2 what Chris said! Thanks for the education.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 24 Apr 2019 at 7:51am |
Ryan, I think the painted engine looks great! The hard work and dollars are on the inside. This will make the rest of the CA look bad and you may have to do the whole thing too!:) I like the idea of the stakes in the ground. I have never tried that. I always hang stuff. That is a idea I may use this spring too. Thanks for the great pictures! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 23 Apr 2019 at 8:53pm |
Installed the pilot bushing and bolted the clutch on. Strapped it to the two wheeled cart and grabbed the poor unsuspecting neighbor while he was walking back from the mailbox. Got it out into the garage and degreased it. I decided to try the Van Sickle red primer. I used grey on the wheel centers and wasn't happy with the way it looked. Actually, I'm not happy with the way spray paint turns out at all, but when you factor in cost and convenience, it's hard to put up the paint booth and get out the HVLP gun, for smaller projects. I wasn't going to paint the engine, but when I took the head in, they shot blasted it bare, so that's that. I guess runny thin spray paint is better than bare metal, or worse yet, rust. One advantage to painting a block that's already been painted- "That big run in the paint? Oh, that. That was already there!" Looks like the water pump bush I planted last fall is blossoming! Actually, that's one of the better ways to paint stuff outside, just shove some ready rod in the ground for some instant paint stands. Cleaned and painted the valve cover and thermostat housing pieces too. Everything else looks good enough for reuse. Thanks for looking.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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JaredC(WI)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2019 at 8:17pm |
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Littlemarv, this whole thread is facinating. I've go zero knowledge and experience in what you are doing here. A great read and being able to see things as you do them.....thanks for sharing!
Jared
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Ted J
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Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 8:37pm |
And not that many extra parts..... Looks like you're on the home stretch.  I agree, the next big project should be building a crane of some type in the basement shop. Unless Ma allows you to build a shop in the back yard.......heated and all.....  naw, forget that, your back yard isn't big enough.... Yeah, that last snow storm set us back a while now. It still hasn't melted down here. It should be gone by the middle of the week though. Hopefully it will, I've gotta make a trip up by Alex and stop by Jim maybe. We'll see. Keep your stick on the ice and keep pluggin away.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 3:56pm |
Ryan, Awesome pictures of your son helping on the engine and flywheel! My shop has similar issues, as I attempt to assemble the WD45 engine. I am guilty of never stopping to really clean it up and organize my junk! I am always amazed at what finally comes out of my shop!:) Your doing good. Spring is around the corner and you have the engine complete! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 12:29pm |
Primed and installed the oil pump. Rick has a reman clutch on the way, so we knocked the pilot bushing out, we can tap the new one in later. Muscles torqued the flywheel on while I held the crank. Marked both sets of "center" and "fire" marks, so we can see them in the hole later. So there, I think it needs to go out in the garage for a coat of paint before I put any more parts on. But, we got 8" of wet heavy snow this week to plunge us right back into winter again. So, that will have to wait. Time to clean up a little. Can't even hardly walk down here. I set my chain hoist up to lower the motor down. The forum safety guy should have a ball with this one- a chain hoist strung from the rafters on an old rusty piece of angle iron propped into position with 2 wood blocks. I even had to remove the light bulb to make room. If I'm going to work on more engines down here, need to come up with a trolley system or something. I'm pushing my luck with this setup. At any rate, cleaned up quite a bit. My machinist pal is actually a Steiner dealer, he makes parts for them. So, I had him order me up a water pump, gauges, and a few other odds and ends. We can work on some smaller stuff in the meantime, till the weather straightens out. And the motor tucks away nicely in the corner. Those wheels were a good idea. Thanks for looking.
Edited by littlemarv - 13 Apr 2019 at 12:32pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 7:19pm |
Ryan, I would agree on the stat kit. I got one of those kits from Sandy Lake. Took me a little while to figure out how they went together to mimic the original fitment. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 5:14pm |
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I think those extra pieces are a "kit" so you can use a stat that wasn't made specifically for the CA. Gap filling spacers more or less.
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Ted J
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 1:51pm |
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I've never seen anything like those two pieces, just the thermostat. But then, all I've ever had apart have been autos engines. I have yet to undertake what you are doing. I hope one the 'knowledgeable' guys will step in.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 6:52am |
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Sweet! The engine in my CA may be getting an overhaul - she smokes a bit now and then - this thread will be VERY useful.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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littlemarv
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 10:46pm |
When I took the block in, I had them line bore the mains to eliminate shims, machine the deck for flatness, and re-cut the counterbores to the correct depth to get the liner protrusion right. They also sized the big end of the connecting rods, again to eliminate the shims. Knocked the ring gear off, and machined the flywheel. Heated the ring gear up and dropped it back on, a quarter turn off from where it was originally. A four cylinder inline engine only stops in two spots on the flywheel, so this will give the starter fresh teeth to engage. Took apart the thermostat housing, are all these pieces supposed to be in there? The manual shows a gasket above the thermostat (depending on brand of thermostat?) Thanks for looking.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Ted J
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 3:42pm |
I was just re-reading your whole post and saw a few questions that I didn't ask...you know, that deadly disease we all get..CRS....well, I was gonna ask before and forgot AGAIN, so now I'm gonna!!
littlemarv wrote:
Reassembled the rods and put the main caps in the block. Ready for the
machine shop. Even printed out my own purchase order with critical info
and what I want done, to eliminate foul ups. |
Make a copy of that and send to guys to give them an idea of what you wanted... I know I want one.
littlemarv wrote:
I asked a machinist pal to make me a pilot for
centering the front cover during installation. I told him to use a scrap
of whatever he had laying around. So, of course, a few weeks later he hands me a polished piece of aluminum. Sheesh! So, if anybody wants the specs, it is 1.503" inside diameter, 1.995" outside diameter, by 3" long. |
Thanks for the specs, but if I need to use it, I know where you live....
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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littlemarv
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Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 8:23pm |
Anyways, I might as well look at some of the odds and ends. During the summer, sometimes, when I started the tractor, it would run funny. Not a dead miss, just sounded off. After a couple times of it running funny and shutting off after the exact same amount of time, I think its because the float or needle is sticking. Gentle rap on the carb with a screwdriver handle and it would start and run fine. So I took the carb apart, nice and clean inside. It has the rubber tipped needle in it. Were both brass and rubber tipped needles used? Is one better than the other? It looks like there is a ring around the rubber tip where it fits in to the seat, maybe I should just get a new one and try it. Couldn't get my phone to focus very good. I've been humming and hawing over the foot clutch all winter. I noticed the two heavier springs are loose in the clutch disk. I think I will just send it Ricks way and be done with it. Thanks for looking.
Edited by littlemarv - 02 Apr 2019 at 8:24pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 11:12am |
Dick L wrote:
I just use longer bolts with pipe nipples over the bolts to be able to put the flywheel on. |
Clever man that Dick L. 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Dick L
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Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 9:19am |
I just use longer bolts with pipe nipples over the bolts to be able to put the flywheel on. 
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 30 Mar 2019 at 7:00pm |
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Very nice setup! Enjoying your story, too.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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littlemarv
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Posted: 30 Mar 2019 at 5:15pm |
Yeah, I kind of sat down and looked at the engine for a minute, and realized I should probably give it a coat of paint before I get too much farther, but there are lots of odds and ends to do yet. I'm pretty much done with all the parts that need the block flipped over for, and when its on the stand I can't install the oil pump or the flywheel. May as well get it back up on the tractor table. After my epic fail at making All Crop cylinder bars last fall, I seem to have a good supply of 1 1/4" angle iron laying about. So, I think we know what all my jigs and brackets are going to be made out of for awhile.... Grabbed some steel casters to put on it, this will make it handy to spin it around on the bench, and for moving around out in the garage once it goes back outside. Pretty handy little setup. If I do anymore engines down here, I need to get an overhead crane mounted to the ceiling. I have a 1 ton chain hoist, just need a set of tracks to mount it on so I can lift, then push it over the table and set it down.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 29 Mar 2019 at 8:36pm |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
[QUOTE=Jacob (WI,ND)]
As long as the cam is timed right to the crank (that doesn't change from mag to distributor), the only thing you need to do for a magneto, is get the drive key HORIZONTAL when #1 is at TDC> You might have to pull the governor out to set this correctly.
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I suspect that is where my problem is then. Any advice on doing this, or is it all self explanatory? I'd read through my manuals, but I accidentally left them all back home the last time I visited.
I suppose if I sit here quietly and patiently wait Littlemarv will eventually cover this on his rebuild?  It's so exciting waiting for the next installment
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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