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garden_guy 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
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 Topic: AC160 rotary mower front oil seal?
Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 3:28pm |
Was out mowing some bean stubble and field edges earlier this week, and when I got done (probably mowed... 45 mins to an hour). But when I got done, I noticed there was some extra oil in the back below the gear box. I fill her up with 140wt every year (or 85w140, can't recall which), and have no issues topping her off, but I'm wondering if I have a front seal or something going bad? Or if this is normal when under heavy load? No weird noises or anything.
I have a manual but figured I'd ask around first.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 6:16pm |
Prolly needs a seal, not a big deal, till it wets the rattle clutch, if so equipped. THen its time to change it. Also google thixotropic grease, the poor farmer's friend... 
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TimNearFortWorth
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Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 7:28am |
Mine does the same and a new seal only slowed it down so will have to address this someday. Seal area was not pretty when I changed mine so I'm guessing she sat for years without being used. I use a Bush Hog brand cutter anymore so as to get up against fence rows. Two things; fill it just enough to see it pooling in the bottom of the elbow and stop as any overage will blow the seal on the front shaft. The other thing to check is to make sure your vent fitting is clear if it still has one, that'll also help push oil past the seal when the oil gets hot if she can't breathe. The last few years I ran mine she had a mix of heavy gear oil and corn head grease which slowed the weeping seal considerably, even using it on 100F+ days.
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Dave H
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Location: Central IL
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Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 7:40am |
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I am with Tim. on a gear box like that, i reach for the gun with the corn head grease in it.
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wfmurray
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Location: Bostic NC
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Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 5:57pm |
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I put chain saw bar oil in one.What takes more of a beating than a chain saw bar.
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garden_guy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 6:45pm |
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DiyDave -- Yep, she's got a rattle clutch. Thankfully she ain't slipping yet! :D
Tim -- Yeah, this old girl had some years of inactivity on it. Think I may check to make sure I just don't have a plugged vent and top her back off for now. Wonder where the vent fitting is on this thing. First time I've noticed it do this after a few years of use.
Dave H -- I'll keep this idea in my back pocket.
wfmurray -- Hmmm... Wonder what the viscosity of chainsaw bar oil is. Probably not too far off from 85w140?
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Location: Prairie City Ia
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Posted: 06 Nov 2018 at 7:05am |
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The seals were leaking on my 160 mower, so I just replaced them. It was a simple job to do. I'd fix them ASAP if it were mine, they could cut loose and really leak, potentially taking out the gear box...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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tomstractorsandtoys
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Joined: 11 Feb 2015
Location: wi
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Posted: 06 Nov 2018 at 7:50am |
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John Deere sells a pourable grease called Multi-Lube. It was used on machines with grease banks like corn pickers and baler knotters. I have used it in lots of rotary mower gearboxes. I originaly came from western MD and we had lots of limestone rocks and almost no rotary mower would keep the bottom seals in as hitting rock ledges would flex the shafts and damage the lower seals.People who never farmed this type of land would never understand what it was like. We could destroy and tillage or mowing machinery ever built. I like it better than cornhead grease. Tom
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DiyDave
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Posted: 06 Nov 2018 at 5:49pm |
When the bottom seal goes on a cheap bush hog, I drill a grease fitting into the housing, between the bottom bearing, and the top bearing, and fill the bottom with heavy grease. I have had to replace bottom seals, sometimes, the bar or stump jumper just don't wanna come off the shaft.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 06 Nov 2018 at 6:12pm |
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Corn Head grease is your friend.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 07 Nov 2018 at 6:00pm |
Brian Jasper -- Where'd you find replacement seals? Make your own? AGCO?
How involved are we talkin' -- just a few bolts, or have to take the PTO shaft off?
tomstractorsandtoys / DiyDave / Gary Burnett -- So noted on all fronts. Thicker is better. :D
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DiyDave
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Posted: 07 Nov 2018 at 8:28pm |
If it has the rattle clutch on it, that needs to be removed. If its just the seal, you can generally get it out with a couple or 3 self drillin, self tappin screws. install screws, pry out seal, re-install with a mallet. While its out, check bearing side play, if its bad, you need to dis-assemble, and fit the pinion gear, and shim the bearing carrier with paper shims. Not easy for a novice...
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garden_guy
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Posted: 14 Nov 2018 at 8:48pm |
 DiyDave wrote:
If it has the rattle clutch on it, that needs to be removed. If its just the seal, you can generally get it out with a couple or 3 self drillin, self tappin screws. install screws, pry out seal, re-install with a mallet. While its out, check bearing side play, if its bad, you need to dis-assemble, and fit the pinion gear, and shim the bearing carrier with paper shims. Not easy for a novice... |
This is great info -- thanks!
I have heard mention before of these paper shims and "pre-loading" the bearing and it being awful. Was there a shop manual or something for these things for this stuff? I only have the operators manual with parts listed, but nothing with this level of detail. It doesn't even really do a great job of showing the seals on the gearbox.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 15 Nov 2018 at 4:59am |
search youtube for setting up a rear differential ring and pinion gear, the procedure is essentially the same, you use dyekem, or a similar dye, on one gear, assemble with same # of shims, as was on originally, turn the gearbox by hand, and see how it prints the dye, all the particulars should be in a youtube video, somewhere...
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 16 Nov 2018 at 8:16am |
garden_guy wrote:
Brian Jasper -- Where'd you find replacement seals? Make your own? AGCO?
How involved are we talkin' -- just a few bolts, or have to take the PTO shaft off?
tomstractorsandtoys / DiyDave / Gary Burnett -- So noted on all fronts. Thicker is better. :D |
I went to the local Agco dealer and bought both new seals and also the pins and springs for the overrunning clutch on mine. The bottom seal had been leaking for quite a while so I had no trouble at all getting the stump jumper off. I used a couple self drilling sheet metal screws and a side cutter to pull the seals out and carefully drove the new seals in with the swing press (hammer). Easy peasy...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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