Update on 7000 leak: it's getting bad (long post)

This is the scene under my 7000's torque tube.  The thing is, this tractor doesn't leak a drop when it's not loaded (PTO not being used).  I filled it up today and idled it the whole time it took to put 25 gallons in it (probably 10 minutes of idling there) and this was after driving it on the road for about a mile and having had it running for about 10 minutes before that with it in the low to mid 90s outside, so the oil should have been plenty warm to start seeping through a leak letting out as much oil as you see in the picture.  I then went to round bale for about 2 hours and this is what dripped off the tractor after parking it in the shop for about an hour.  This is a black belly with the single solid input shaft.  I was looking at the manual and trying to get a sense of where things are in there, but I still need to study things a little more.  Has anyone ever seen anything like this?  The O-Ring on the PTO clutch cover that houses the needle bearing and input shaft seal was replaced last summer when the engine was done or the summer before that, I can't remember if I did the input shaft seal again when I had the engine apart, as I had replaced it 2 summers ago.  Would this be a bolt that is loose on that cover possibly not getting oil thrown on it until the PTO gears are turning? 

Bottom line is its still leaking, gonna have to split it to find out why.   Its been a real long time since Ive  had a black 7000 apart, that being said, if the input bearing is loose it will allow the shaft to wobble and seal not to hold, if there is a groove worn on the shaft it may allow the seal to leak.  If the seal is flooded with to much oil it may not be able to hold it all back.  Those are just a few things to look for. I dont know what parts are available, no update as far as I remember.  Good luck.

I meant...Just thought I would throw my thoughts out there

Clutch holds fine.  The low pressure light stays off at all RPMs except for the times when I shift ranges it flashes, or sometimes something in the valve body sticks (can hear a modulator or spool buzzing like crazy) and the light stays dim until I shift it back and forth a few times until what ever it was sticking quits.  The PTO clutch doesn't slip either.  It will hold a 20ft batwing enough to lug down the engine from 2200 to 18-1900 (and I believe it's been turned up a little judging by the smoke and it has a fresh OH with about 150 hours on it).  The oil separates back out into the golden color of hydraulic oil, and my engine oil level is holding steady.  Also, all the oil is pouring down the back of the pto clutch cover, not up on the engine plate, so I am confident it is hydraulic oil.  I was going to take the cover off and check all the bolts holding that plate on just in case one of them may have come loose.  The reason for thinking about doing the PTO and powershift OH (hopefully would just need resealing and not new plates/housings) was because of the funny shifts the powershift does with the PTO running and kicking the PTO out when hot as I shift ranges. 

Stuck hydraulic pressure regulator?

Gerald J.

Might be all related, or might not be. But too much oil pressure on a seal sure will make a new seal leak. Maybe its as simple as a plugged vent on the oil reservoir and transmission.

Or maybe there's a bad internal leak in hydraulic plumbing that's pressurizing the transmission, but dropping oil pressure from the controled lines.

Gerald J.

Hurst..I just had our 7000 sn 8814 apart to put a pinion bearing in.   Had the valve body off, and agco said they couldn't supply a 'kit' to reseal the valve body, though they did have the gaskets between the body and torque tube housing.  Didn't bother with resealing the valves..it was working fine when I took it apart..   Most everything else was available in the rearend such as bearings and seals from Napa or Agco.  I didnt touch the powershift clutches either..I couldn't tell ya what they'd cost ya to go through.    -Wes