back onto the HD5G

shameless (ne) wrote: with that size torch....them tanks don't hardly look big nuff! yes John....I see that blue blob there! what's yer point? lol

somebody either better get his caffeine, or else some more sleep. Lol Darrel

Now that's a mans torch.

Darrel, What you need is a "MANS' TORCH" like this.
We thought of you today when I got this puppy out to trim the scrap iron off of this blade for the restoration HD11.

buck the track up to the rear housing with a piece of iron,  you will keep alot more energy driving the pin instead of bouncing around.  a heavy wall pipe works good the pin can drive into and bucks the track link directly around it.    a must on the bigger dozers unless you have a press.  we use a  large chunk of shaft with a handle welded to it so the holder can stand back while the swinger goes to town.  still a tough job

that's funny right there!

Thanks for all of the responses, guys. I have the master pin at about the 2 o'clock position on the sprocket, which incidently isn't a bad place, but also the only place it can be, since the final drive is seized up tight on that side. My son's buddy has an air arc, and I may give him a job. I could keep plugging away at it with my torch, also. I have one side 75 percent done. I think a good machine shop should be able to make me a new master pin. Thanks again, Darrel

Darrel are you into molten metal blowing out every where?
  I have never don this but was told about it, and the fellow was working with a 4" pin 30 inches long...and used a quarter inch pipe and blew a hole straight through and when it cooled, he pulled it out without effort...
 Set up a jig to slide the pipe on and hook oxygen right to the end of pipe then hook welder to pipe and then ground to machine, turn welder on high...
 now make sure you have heavy leather on and helmet and mask and gloves because your going to probably get sprayed with liquid iron...  Turn welder on and turn the oxy tank on and strike an arc and start pushing the pipe through the pin. The fellow said once it starts blowing the hole, it goes fairly fast. I wish I had seen him do it.
 But maybe a fellow could maybe use an airarc gun to do the same on each end?
 Good Luck...

Darrel, The book on the master pin is erroneous and why AC did that is disappointing.  But another friend of yours (that would be me) would say to blow out the ends with a torch and then drive it out. Yes it's hard on torch tips,with practice you can save your torch tip. Yes you have to buy another master pin. Yes master pins have gotten expensive, and becoming harder to find.  We started doing that 30 years ago when we could buy a master pin for less than 20 bucks. We
 have a 100 ton ram and have been going to build a track pin press. Truth be known, this 11 restoration I blew the pins out and am now looking for master pins. Have 1 and no idea where the next one is. Yes we our fortunate to have some old rails that we didn't scrap that we can retrieve some regular pins (cut them out of the rail links) and grind them down to fit. The restored tractor will probably never be moved enough to have a pin fall out. I also have found torch tips on ebay that allowed me to waste one with a track pin extraction. Any way yes that is the fastest way to get a master pin out.

Been trying to split the track. Book says find the master link and knock it out with a hammer and punch. Sure! Friend of mine said blow each end of the master link out with the torch. Been working at that, but that's quite a tedious project. Torch tip keeps plugging up. Ugh. Darrel

I feel the pain, been there myself. But, they aint making any new ones. Youve got a lot done already. Maybe leave it a day or two. Once you are done with the fixes needed to get it useful again you can work at the other things, and then you have a pretty nice little crawler. I know its easy for me to say... My WD chewed the oil pump gear off the cam. Turned into a full resto, it was the right move. It is a handy and handsome tractor and will outlast me. Hang in there, jmho, Trev.

Anyone have an HD5 or 6 that they need steering clutches for. I have over 2,200 bucks sitting up there next to this machine in bi-metallic clutch plates, new separator plates, all new clutch springs, brand new brake bands, and that's not counting what I got into bearings. Probably 5 or 6 hundred in them. Both throw out bearings. They're big and spendy, plus all of the bearings and races on the pinion shaft (one side). Another option, if someone had a whole machine for sale cheap that just needed steering clutches, that might be an option for me. My engine (2-71 Detroit) is good also. I put both injectors in that also. I think that to go any farther on this thing would be throwing money out the window. The tracks would have been ok for me for quite a while, but they darn sure aren't good. One sprocket is good, other one is marginal. Someone has welded the track release housing mounts onto the rails. The boom lift cylinders have some issues. Most of the issues like that could have been a "use the machine, but fix em down the road", but now with the left final drive being locked up, and needing to be re-bearinged, it's just kind of the straw that broke the camel's back. I never will figure out how that thing moved on its own power without so much as a squeak coming out of that final drive, and then lock up like it did. Must have piled up a bearing when we were moving it back and forth in the shop. Even yesterday, when we were trying to get it to move by prying on the sprocket spokes with about an 8 foot pipe, it would go back and forth a few inches at first, but got so that now it won't budge either way. Go figure. Darrel

uh....ahem....i'm sure that if them machines was parked INSIDE....there might be less problems down the road? (poke,poke,poke) lol

I pulled that cover off bottom of final drive. Water and rust. Looks like either abort the mission or else re-bearing the intermediate shaft and final drive shaft yet too. Darrel

I should have run this SOB over a cliff! Before I made the decision to fix it, instead of knock it in the head, I had it running, and it would drive forward and backward just fine. No terrible knocks or noises coming from anywhere, gears all worked, loader functions were fine, and I figured it was worthy of a steering clutch/steering brake job. It even backed into the shop on its own. Just couldn't steer it. When we were taking out the brake drum and steering clutch bolts, we very easily rolled the whole machine forward and backward with my little 5215 deutz tractor. But for some reason, during the time that we were cutting out the one steering clutch assembly, because it was to rusted to come out any other way, that side (left side) decided to lock up. Inner bearing on the pinion shaft was all rusted up, and appeared to be the smoking gun. I put all new bearings in on the pinion shaft, and was getting ready today to drop clutch assemblies back in. Guess what.......it still won't move! With a big pipe, prying on the sprocket spokes, we can maybe get the sprocket to go 2 inches in each direction before it comes to a dead stop. It may just get hooked on to a big tractor and get broke to lead. Darrel

Shameless, I don't think Darrel's Prairie dog poker is goin to stop to read some paperbacks....