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B overhaul

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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 4:33pm
Hello I am a new one here.Have 2 bs i mow with,and one is getting a overhaul by me a retired carpenter,also i am enlisting my auto mechanic neighbor and his machine shop a bit .My neighbor is a good  auto mechanic of 20 or 30 years,but installing  sleeves and plastic gauge is not anything he has been around.The machine shop tells me if i line bore the block,the shimming will not be needed,so i said do it.Yep going to end up with a 1500 dollar overhaul on a thousand dollar tractor.
  Anyway my question right now is how to deal with the crankshaft oilwick, .Can these be bought somewhere,
  Second question if the rods are checked for square ,do they require shimming on the ends?
 thanks for any help    Tom
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Ted in NE-OH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 4:54pm
Check out U tube, I'll bet you will see videos that will help.
CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 5:56pm
To do away with the shims on the rods, yup more money, they will need to be re-machined to do away with them.  Both the mains and rods were machined round with shims. When the shims are removed the caps set down farther and the hole is no longer round.
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:06pm
First of all thanks,so i ask the machine shop guy to check them for round when bolted together  without shims?He may already know this, not sure--Tom
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:08pm
thanks Ted,
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by Tom Elder Tom Elder wrote:

First of all thanks,so i ask the machine shop guy to check them for round when bolted together  without shims?He may already know this, not sure--Tom

I am sure he does!
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 6:42pm
I guess the point of shims was so when the bearings wore, you could  just pull a shim from each bearing, and that would make the clearances tighter? Easy farmer fix?

Edited by CrestonM - 06 Dec 2016 at 6:43pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:18pm
that is correct Creston.........Tom, have your machinist test fit the rods / new bearings, to the shaft to make sure all is good BEFORE you get it back. Sometimes they line bore the crank bearings, but keep the shims on the rods. If he removes them, he should know the process.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 5:28am
 You guys are a lot of help.I grew up around WC up  to the time we had a  D17 ,WC and b,doing various duties.
  I have a b   that was overhauled several years back.I have a 5 ft.side sickle on it .A lever to tilt it,a lever to adjust the height.It does lift hydraulic .Best of all I took those long rock guards off and bolted on the hesston stub guards .When a spot needs to be remowed ,it does not clog .The overhaul has a belly mower on it ,bought new about 10 years ago.
   I am still asking for suggestions on the crankshaft wick .
Thanks    Tom
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:49am
i was thinking you could have the crank threaded for a plug and do away with the wick like on a wc but if i recall the B uses a bushing not a pilot bearing?
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:56am
I normally plug the wick hole.... thread/ epoxy / JB weld ... all work.... Make sure bushing has a couple thousandths clearance and grease when you install.. Some buy an oil impregnated bushing and install....... think of older cars/ trucks , they had a bushing and no wick.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 8:48am
I think that the oil-wick is available from Sandy Lake,  but not 100% sure. (If you decide to keep the wick, that is)
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:18am
Tom,  Listen closely to what is said above.  You are getting information from some of the best mechanics I will never meet.  You will be amazed with the knowledge available here.
I cannot help you specifically with your questions on shims.  However, I do remember my father taking an afternoon to school me on how to shim the crankshaft.  We used to check with plastigage, used the required shims and it worked very well.  
In any event thank you for all you are doing to keep my favorite Allis Chalmers Tractor alive and well.
Take good care of my favorite.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck!
Bill Long 
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 1:12pm
The machine shop guy knew it all along about how to fix the rods,i guess when he told me i was not listening good.Thanks all.
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Norm Meinert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Norm Meinert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:43pm
I have a new oil wick if you need one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveC(NS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 6:54am
I still have the new wick I bought years ago. There reason I have it is because I couldn't find a way to install it.
I have since done several rebuilds by plugging the wick hole and using an oilite bushing.
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 11:36am
Thanks Norm and Steve,not sure which way i will go ,but since the topic is at hand,Steve where do you get the correct size oil lite bushing?i have the size ,but not a dealer==Tom
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 11:57am
My neighbor is a good auto mechanic of 20 or 30 years,but installing sleeves and plastic gauge is not anything he has been around.

In terms of rebuilds, Sleeves and plastigauge are not unusual... but the reason he may not be familiar, is because most of the automotive stuff he'd have worked on, was more disposable than rebuildable...

These engines were designed and intended to get an in-frame overhaul in under 8 hours by two farmers in a dusty barn, using hand-tools... with those shims in there, you could've probably slapped in a new set of sleeves, pistons, rings, bearing inserts and gaskets, and been back to the field for another 20 years...

...but a trip to the machine shop is not an unworthy honor for your project... and it's certainly a special treat for the machine shop guy... boil a block, line bore a crank, and check sleeve protrusion... and he's done...

Allis-Chalmers was known by 'us' as a farm-tractor manufacturer, but they were actually a manufacturer of large power generation and transmission equipment... they cast 150lb tractor engine blocks from the high-quality iron left over from pouring end bells for 350,000lb electric generators and turbines... they struck the molds, and whatever wound up being bad, they simply put back in the pot for the next melting session... sent the good castings on for production.

The real gem of their work, was INDUSTRIAL engineering... figuring out how to make the parts to create the greatest result, with the least amount of input effort... the best fitment, with the least amount of required precision... and finally, the easiest assembly and rebuild, without the need for extensive re-machining.

They're just plain cool.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 3:10pm
You could have the shop chuck the flywheel up in a lathe to make a clean up cut on the working face, and while at it, bore the bushing hole out to fit a sealed bearing.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Tom Elder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 3:46pm
As far as allis history i have  a big book upstairs that goes in depth.CW Wendell or something like that ,is the writer.thanks
 Good idea on the clutch,i will do that as soon as i win the lottery.ha ha
I also have the nebraska test book,that is a fun read
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 8:31pm
If you are doing a complete OH of the engine, it needs a new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing for another $100 or so from Rick. Then you really NEED to resurface the flywheel. So boring for a bearing might take another 15 minutes of machine time since it's set up already.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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