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My D15 Series 1 Build |
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Yes. Timing marks are cleaned up and clearly visible with the light while its running. At idle the TDC mark lines up in the window next to the little rough casted pointer and at full throttle (2100 ish rpm) the "f25" is clearly visible. When set to that it stumbles and carries on and the dyno proved it fell on its face. Would only make about 21 hp at that setting. I am maybe only a degree or two over the F25 mark and it runs clean and smooth and power was back up into the high 30's. Edited by bigredisb - 31 Aug 2016 at 3:19pm |
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1961 Allis-Chalmers D15
1949 Farmall Super A |
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2857 |
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Those are called slat plows. They work good is hard scouring sticky soils like muck or sticky clay. There is less molboard surface area so the dirt keeps flowing instead of balling up on the molboard.
THe only problem with them is that there are no new slats being made. If you need a replacement you have to find a used one somewhere which can be tough. So if it's all complete and all the slats are there and good, it should be a good plow. If even one slat is missing or broke, I wouldn't buy it. $300 is an average price for a 3 bottom Allis plow. The shares for almost all Allis plows are getting hard to find. I think a couple years ago DaveThePlowMan on here started reproducing shares for some models. I redrilled my plow a few years ago to accept a still in production share. I kick myself bc I didn't bid $100 on a 4-14 slat bottom plow at an auction about 5 years ago, until the gavel had already fell. It was in good shape. I thought it was too big for my WD45 and was even younger than I am now with even less money. Edited by Allis dave - 01 Sep 2016 at 9:24am |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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When using the timing light, you are shining it thru the 1 inch hole in the right side of the bellhousing??
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Any suggestions on this plow? I really like the looks of the skeleton plows. What was the advantages of this plow and with our soil having some clay in it here would it even be worth messing around with?
Plow |
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1961 Allis-Chalmers D15
1949 Farmall Super A |
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2857 |
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That's pretty funny about the key. The tie rods on my 45 were pretty froze. I spent a little effort in getting them apart, then just bought 2 new ones that were good and tight for about $60 each. No steering slop now.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Timing is set for now so on to the next challenge.
I need to figure out if I really do have a hydraulic pump issue. I figure I will take a video and post it on here for some opinions. I posted a thread on the classifieds area and the one guy that came back saying they have several pumps needs a casting number. Is the casting near the hydraulic line from the casting on the bottom of the trans housing the pump? Its a stupid question I know but I have never had the pump out of one of these. Is the casting number next to the hydraulic line the number they are looking for or is that just a cover? Started on the electrical last night. While I was digging around laying on my back I discovered something jammed above the floorboard and behind the guard on the left hand side of the trans. As a kid I remember my grandpa letting me plow snow at his grocery store and I was so eager to run it that I dropped the key in the snow and we couldn't find it. My grandpa (a bit annoyed) ran back home to get another key for it. Well I found the key that I thought I lost! I have been also trying to get my tie rods freed up. I want to bring the front axle in one position and the axle slides easily but those tie rods are stubborn. I heated them up and have been dousing them with PB blaster so hopefully they finally budge soon. Edited by bigredisb - 31 Aug 2016 at 10:23am |
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1961 Allis-Chalmers D15
1949 Farmall Super A |
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2857 |
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I would set it where it runs good with no detonation. Your dyno will tell you where your best timing and carb setting is. Like you said, "that's where it always was"
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Just timed it again at lunch. If I set the high speed timing to F25 and bring her back down to idle the TDC mark is spot on. I guess I will leave it that way but man it runs awful.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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I don't recall seeing a TDC mark on the flywheel at idle. I found the F25 mark at wide open throttle only in the window. I took the plate below the points off and had lightly lubed it and cleaned the centrifugal advance system. Grabbing the rotor and turning it forward, the advance feels nice and smooth and using the timing light you can see the timing advancing and retarding based on engine speed.
Something's really odd. With it set at the F25 (at wide open throttle) the engine almost stalls just lifting the lift arms. With the distributer turned 1/8th inch clockwise (advanced) the engine at idle does not even pull down the RPM when using the lift. This advanced timing setting is where the tractor had been set for the last 25+ years with no burned pistons so maybe its ok at that setting. when I was testing it at full rpm and full load I had to turn it another 1/8 inch advanced to start hearing a tiny bit of spark knock so I feel like I am a ways away from detonation issues. I do all kinds of diagnostics on automotive engines and rebuild them and tune them and diesel engines all the time so timing isn't totally foreign to me but I don't mess with points very often which I wonder if I am missing something related to them. I don't plan on converting this to electronic ignition as it runs so good with points and I have never had an issue with it starting even with a wore out engine in the past. Edited by bigredisb - 30 Aug 2016 at 8:45am |
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Dan73
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Good point doc. I thought my advance was ok testing my d15 by hand but it was a mess took it apart this spring had my mechanic rebuild the distributor and it made a world of difference.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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Are you sure your advance mechanism is working (not stuck)?? Should be F-25 at wide open throttle and near/close to TDC at a very slow idle.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Ha ha ha, yeah it drew a crowd of them behind me. They were a bit perplexed as to what I was doing.
One neighbor put it best saying "You know some neighbors just mow the lawn or maybe even change their own oil on something but not this guy, he has to bring a mobile dyno center home". I am still just little frustrated with the whole timing challenge I have and what would be causing the tractor not to run right when its set tot the proper flywheel marks. Late last night verified my plug gaps were at .030 and my points were at .020. I set it again while the engine was toasty to "F25" and it wouldn't hardly idle and was laboring really bad. As far as how much over the f25 mark I measured how much I have to turn the distributer counterclockwise (advanced) to get it to run right and its only 1/8th of an inch at the base of my distributer different than may mark on put on the dizzy base at f25. Edited by bigredisb - 30 Aug 2016 at 7:39am |
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2857 |
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I bet it gets some looks from the neighbors when it's out there running! Don't worry about that though. Looks like you've got some support from about everywhere!
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Yeah I don't know how accurate an AW Nebraska 800 dyno is at 30ish horsepower. We had the base custom built and we have a 400 ish gallon water tank in the front of the trailer for additional water capacity so we can run it without external water sources. We have 2 water pumps that circulate the water through the dyno and on the return a radiator to try to take some heat out of her.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Yeah I thought I must have missed something as well but verified it again. Runs like total garbage at "F25". It's very clear in the belhousing hole as the flywheel was polished up nice from a mouse nest in it. Not sure why it would be doing this. I went a degree or two less than the original setting that we had it at for years with no burned piston issues on them. Could something with funky points be throwing off my readings? When I had the engine at TDC on the front pointer (which could be my mistake) the points are well away from the lobe on the dizzy to get them to open. It runs great. Good throttle response and idles just great.
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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Sounds like you might have mixed-up the F-25 mark and the Center (or TDC) mark. At 26*(or more) before TDC it will burn pistons. That's one big a$$ Dyno! Looks like one of them buggy's they used to drive around on the moon back in the 70's.lol
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Break in is done! I started out with it set at f25 for timing but it wouldn't hardly pull any load and was only making 21hp. I set it back to the advanced mark where I had originally ran it for years it made 39 hp and 289 ft lb's of torque. I advanced it past my original mark and it brought power up a hair but I also heard a little detonation so I took her well back off of that.
Not sure why it runs so crappy at F25. |
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Dan73
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Yup that is a great book but it is hard to find now.
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2857 |
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A lot of that info is in Norm Swinford's book "Allis Chalmers Farm Equipment 1914-1985"
I think a lot of guys here have that sitting next to their Bible. |
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Thanks for the info. I am still brushing up on my Allis history a bit. Where were you finding the info on what years and paint or is it just tribal knowledge?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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Every D-15 was always Persion #2 with cream grille and wheels.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Thanks Dan! |
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Dan73
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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PO2 it started in 60.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Also looking for some advice on what paint I need to be using.
Persian Orange 1 or 2 for a 61? Found this great post but not sure what colors I should be using other than Crème: Paint codes Edited by bigredisb - 29 Aug 2016 at 10:16am |
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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No signs of water in the oil. I changed it a year ago and didn't find any obvious signs of metal in it either. After it has ran a while the oil is still a nice Amber color not milky at all.
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Dan73
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Are you getting water in the oil? Almost sounds to me like a pump fighting water issues.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Any of you guys have a D15 hydraulic pump you are willing to separate from? The lift has always been really "ratchety" if that makes any sense. Feels like of the 4 Pistons isn't moving oil but it still has plenty of lift power and kicks off from pressure at the top of the lift stroke easily. Just seems way to jerky in its lift but maybe it's normal?? This tractor has been that way from the day we got it so I just figured it was normal.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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Yes I checked it at full throttle. That's what I meant with my acronym of "wot" or wide open throttle.
I also took the dizzy apart and cleaned and lubed the advance mechanism as well. Just got done servicing the wheel bearings as well. They looked good but one was way out of adjustment (loose). I also just ordered some decent copper plug wires from a guy that posts on here (bb electric or something like that). Also got my bottomless toolbox off. All of the carriage bolts that pass through the tool box were spinning so I welded nuts to the heads to get them out as well as welded up some random holes in the sheet metal up front from what appears to have been wire routing for random lights. Edited by bigredisb - 28 Aug 2016 at 8:12pm |
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Dan73
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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You should check the timming again at full throttle. I know on the 160 gas motor it is critical that you time it at full throttle not idle.
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bigredisb
Silver Level Joined: 16 Aug 2016 Location: Racine WI Points: 185 |
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That's good info for sure. I am not going for all out power. Just dependable and clean running tune. I will admit today was timing day and I was a bit bewildered for a little bit as I couldn't find any f marks on the front pulley! I did find it in the bell housing hole so life is good. It was set about 6 or 7 degrees retarded. I turned the dizzy until "F25" at wot was clearly visible in the window. The engines tone is much deeper at this setting especially at idle and the exhaust flow seems much higher as the rain cap used to bang and clang up and down with the timing retarded. I ended up giving a little more fuel on the idle and fast speed mixture screws as well to smooth her out a bit. I put points in it a year ago but I am not certain I had it at tdc and rocking the dizzy to verify they were just opening so I may need to redo that. It starts great with no kicking and runs smooth all the way through the rpm range.
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