201 engine assembly

Thanks Allis dave!! I did get confused it appeared that littlemerv had washers underneath his bolts in his pictures above. I do have a really important question yet stupid on my part.   I am ready to assemble my cam gear back to the camshaft, however, I have zero idea what position it goes on as the 3 holes could allow it to be assembled 3 different ways. I imagine this is a very important step....I bought the WC Service manual but didn't locate any information on it.

Thanks

Billy Bodnar

I have all my head studs in and oil pump put back together. Anybody know what nuts I need for head studs? I would naturally go grade 8, do I use lock or regular washers?

Thanks,
Billy

Yeah, I thought so too. The rest of my life keeps getting in the way. This weekend the tractor rolls in the shed and then I will get more done. The radiator is at the shop and I have to get the mag up to snuff, and clean out a fuel tank, and then it should be just nuts and bolts. (Famous last words).

Marv,
You are such an improvisor! That engine hoist is unreal!
Mike

Hey everybody!!

I am ALMOST ready to assemble my WC that was my grandfather's. Got it back in family in Oct. after 30 some years for FREE!! Sad thing was, #2 had bent rod as it appears to have filled with water and I assuming ppl who had it before I got it back tried to tow start and bent the rod terrible!! So..after the Tisco kit and machine shop work on head and turned the crank, I am ready for assembly, you post on here is AMAZING!! I was wondering you mentioned "Videos from Don" Is that on the site here somewhere?
PS. crank was turned .030 on mains, .020 on rods, I bought a set of wd45 rods, have all matching bearings, I bought the laminate pack of shims for mains, as I was told the rods won't need them? what is the correct process for installing the shims?

Thanks in advance!!
Billy Bodnar
Denton, Maryland.

Great job!

SteveM C/IL wrote: Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.

Actually, BOTH gasoline and distillate fuels (kerosene) get exhaust heat... Kerosene, however, gets more, because of two reasons:

1) Kerosene's flashpoint is much higher than gasoline
2) Kerosene's burn temperature us much lower than gasoline

Because of the presence of high velocity airflow through the venturi, there is a pressure drop, and commensurate lowering of temperature in the intake manifold. It's a natural result of Combined Gas Law... air is going from ambient pressure and temp, to substantially lower pressure, thus, temperature. The end result is that moisture IN the air becomes frost, and will rapidly fill up the interior of the intake if additional heat isn't added. SINCE distillate fuel's exhaust temp is lower, it takes more heat at the manifold.

Go out early in the morning, start her up, and get it up to half throttle and watch what happens to the intake, and you'll immediately understand.

The K-model has pathways for more exhaust heat to be directed to the intake, just for these reasons.

NOW...

Notice that in this manifold, you've got a HOT side of the casting, and a COLD side.

IF you EVER have an engine that acts like it has a vacuum leak, but you cannot FIND it by any of the usual tricks, there's a good possibility that the vacuum leak is from the exhaust chamber, through a crack in the casting, to the intake side.

It is also not unusual for a leak in this area to be totally variable... like, sealed up tight when the temp is cold, and really leaky when warm, the crack is opening up as the casting warms up.

Very few people check this, and understandably so... it's not an easy thing to fix... oftentimes, guys just change the manifold.

BTW, awesome thread- great pictures!

Very nice documentation on your engine build! Thanks for posting the details.
Regards,
 Chris

Doing a great job documenting this project.  Curious why you opted to stay with the old style water outlet instead of the later with thermostat for automatic temp control.

Less dramatic than I thought the trip up the stairs would be, all I can say is you and your brother must be some "heavy duty guys".   My fear would be getting it up to stair number four and running out of gas. Mark

I have loved reading this thread. As someone who is new to all of this and looking forward to learning, it has been full of valuable information. I cant wait to see the finished product!

Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.

When I rebuilt the engine for my 45 I had to use a WD block. Learning how to safety wire was one of the more interesting parts of the job. 

Definitely some pictures of 'the trip out'! 

Flipped the engine over.






I thought the safety wire videos were really neat, so I redid those.










Installed the oil pump. Yes, that is Don's oil pan video in the background.





Put the pan on, torqued the bolts to 18 foot pounds.





Flipped it back up, put the valve cover on just snug, and installed these stands I welded up out of some scrap iron I had laying around.








So there it is. I think I will put the water pump on, then up the stairs she goes, out to the garage for a coat of primer.


Thanks for looking!

Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:18pm