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dyno 
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 Topic: HD5 steering clutch throw out bearing
Posted: 18 Apr 2010 at 10:13pm |
Hi,
I lost my left steering clutch on my HD5 dozer. Pulled the cover and found the problem to be a very worn out throw out bearing. I could not see the individual parts that well, but a lot of the metal is ground away. Before I pull it all apart, how easy is it to find parts and what typically am I going to have to replace?
Also, the left side that went bad was completely dry and clean inside the housing. The right side (good side) was very greasy. I saw a flexible hose that looks like it lubes the throw out bearing. Could it be that it wasn't getting any oil that caused the failure?
Thanks,
dyno
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gemdozer
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Posted: 19 Apr 2010 at 5:47am |
Yes if your bearing has no lubrification he burn and you have to pull out the stering cluch and the cage ass. for change the bearing and its a good job and am still have some
hd5 pieces.
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dyno
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Posted: 19 Apr 2010 at 8:26am |
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Thanks for the reply. If I cant find the parts locally, I'll see if you have them. So where does that lube line for the throw out bearing come from? I couldn't find a zerk.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 19 Apr 2010 at 9:23am |
Lot of people ran it up to top plate of clutch housing so it could be greased without removing cover . On my machine they tapped the housing and fixed line to that .
check the plate also for wear, on mine they used the long bolts and they cut into plate , causing it to bend and not allow the clutch to work.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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gemdozer
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Posted: 19 Apr 2010 at 1:45pm |
The lubrification come from hose wick on housing and like COKE some guy
make a hole on top inspection cover and instaled a grease fitting.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 19 Apr 2010 at 7:20pm |
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Yes on the early (factory design) they used a felt wick to pick up oil for bearing.. The change to grease zerk works but make sure the other end has a plug in housing to keep oil where it belongs.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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dyno
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Posted: 20 Apr 2010 at 8:07am |
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I was trying to find the serial number on the machine for parts ordering. Where is it located?
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gemdozer
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Posted: 20 Apr 2010 at 1:47pm |
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The serie number is on rear stering cluch housing on right top.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 20 Apr 2010 at 7:16pm |
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serial number is also on a plate just below throttle handle. as far as removing the steering clutch, remove fuel tank and top cover for that clutch. take all the bolts out of the throw out bearing side. slide the clutch pack into the drum. remove the linkage for the brake band out the little plugged holes in the side of the rear end housing above the sprocket and put a sling or hoist on the band. remove the bolts holding the drum to the flange. hoist out the turning clutch. now you can work on the throwout bearing. you will have to remove the hub if i remember right to remove the throwout bearing and yolk. replace the seal before you put it back together. i also recommend replacing the final drive side seal if for no other reason than it is easy to do n ow but the same amount of work to do later if it leaks. if hector does not have the parts you need, i have several. not a bad time to check the clutch pack as well. hope this helps.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dyno
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Posted: 20 Apr 2010 at 9:55pm |
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Thanks. That helps alot. I got a few pages from the repair manual also to help me do the job. I have the dozer on blocks so I can rotate the track to get to all the bolts on the clutch.
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dyno
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Posted: 02 May 2010 at 7:02pm |
Hi Guys,
I finally pulled the steering clutch assy this weekend. Looks like I need to replace 4 throwout parts as they are really worn out:
050249 Cage Assy.
050440 Throwout Bearing
050223 Throwout Sleeve
050215 Steering Clutch Driving Hub
I cannot remove the driving hub. I removed the retainer washer and large bolt holding it to the shaft, built a puller plate with four 1/2" holes in it but it wont budge! As you know it's really tight working in there.
Any ideas to get that hub off? Heat it up with a torch?
Thanks.
Edited by dyno - 02 May 2010 at 7:03pm
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 02 May 2010 at 7:08pm |
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Hmm torch it seems would destroy the seal in the case that the hub goes into. Puller seems the best way, might try shock with hammer while applying pressure.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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dyno
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Posted: 02 May 2010 at 9:50pm |
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Yeah, I figured heating it up would ruin the seal, but I don't know if I have a choice. I had some heavy pressure on the puller plate I made. I made it out of a 1/2" thick steel. Bent the plate and didn't budge the hub. The hub is impossible to hit with a hammer from the side...there's not enough room in there to get a swing at it.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 03 May 2010 at 5:01am |
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1/2" steel is obviously not going to do it. the puller i use for these is 1" thick with a fine thread 3/4" bolt for the center. you need a better puller, it will come. you can take the puller you made and weld gussets on it to strengthen it of start over. they can be a bugger. i recommend replacing the seal anyway, if you got it back together and it leaked you would kick yourself even after you fixed it. cheap insurance you could call it. keep after it and soak the shaft with penetrant. every little bit helps.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 03 May 2010 at 5:05am |
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i checked your part numbers and i have all the parts you need if you are interested. let me know. thanks.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dyno
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Posted: 03 May 2010 at 9:43pm |
Do any of you guys have one of the driving hubs handy? My dozer is up at the ranch and I cant remember the spacing on the four 1/2" threaded holes used for pulling. I think they were 4-1/2" on center. I need to make a new heavier puller plate to bring up there next weekend to get that hub off.
Thanks for your help!
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dyno
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Posted: 10 May 2010 at 10:21pm |
Does anyone know the transmission oil capacity on HD5? How full should the level be?
Low oil level could have contributed to lack of oil to the throwout bearing causing failure. I am going to install new grease lines with zerks in the inspection covers. I found a couple of 12" grease gun hoses at Auto Zone with 1/8" NPT fittings on each end. Just need a 1/8 x 1/4 NPT bushing at the throwout and I'm in business.
BTW, the 1" thick puller plate did the job pulling the hub off. No heat needed!
dyno
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 4:54am |
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on the side of the transmission is a plug, i believe left side of the trans. bring level of oil up until it comes out that plug. it takes quite a bit of oil as it also lubricates the ring and pinion. i will check my books for exact amount. grease lines are a good idea to insure bearings are lubricated. just don't overgrease as the extra will get all over the brakes.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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gemdozer
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 5:40am |
The hd5 transmission oil capacité is 5gals.
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dyno
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 8:33am |
So the tranny and bevel gear housing share the same lube?
The tranny level in the machine was really low...only a couple quarts in there! I have not had this machine very long so I don't know where the oil was leaking at. The right steering clutch housing was really greasy...I'm sure that seal is bad. Maybe that's where all the oil was going. I hate to tear that side down too, but looks like I better replace that seal.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 9:01am |
Yes the bevel gear is lubed through the trany, and the outer bearing is lubed by the final drive which is filled at the drawbar. If the case has not been cleaned out for many years a small leak could cause a mess over a long time. I have just cleaned cases and kept up the oil levels over the last 30 years on my machine with good results.
Front trany seal (brass rings) seems to be a point of leakage over the lip seals on the rear case.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 6:03pm |
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the throw out bearing for the turning clutches was lubricated from the wick hose going to the ring gear compartment. the bearing is not sealed or not well and oil comes out of it a little at a time. this is where alot of grease and oil come from in the clutch compartment. i think i would clean it out and try it before you get too crazy. is the brake band contaminated? if it is, you probably have a leak. if not, it is probably from the turning clutch throw out bearing. input shaft on tranny is very common leaker like coke said. mine does but i just keep her topped off.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dyno
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Posted: 11 May 2010 at 7:15pm |
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Yeah, the brake band is really greasy on that side. Everything on that side very oily and black. The clutch works great on that side...I hate to tear it out to replace the seal but if that's where the leak is I better do it now.
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dyno
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Posted: 16 May 2010 at 8:42pm |
I was up at the ranch this weekend and checked out the right side steering clutch oil leak. While filling the tranny, I pulled the bevel gear cover and saw that fluid level come up to the steering clutch shafts. I let it sit for a few hours, came back and saw fresh gear lube in the bottom of the right side clutch housing. I would say that shaft seal has to be really worn out to leak oil that fast wouldn't you? I was hoping I didn't have to tear that side down too, but it looks like I have to.
So what's the easiest way to remove that seal? Tight quarters in there as you know.
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