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AJ 
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Joined: 31 Oct 2010
Location: mo
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 Topic: D-14 guts into a C?
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 6:57am |
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I am curious other than just the fact that machining would be required, what is required to put the internals of a D-14 into a C block?
Are the rods the same for both tractors?
Are the sleeves longer in a D-14?
Anyone ever do this?
Over all goal is I want to get a lot of horses/torque out if it but still look stock on the outside for the most part.
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Can't fix stupid
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Charlie175
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Shenandoah, VA
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 7:28am |
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DickL or PaulB can tell you what to do. They have been very successful pulling the small ones.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 9:04am |
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Pretty sure the G149-G160 engine lines have larger diameter main bearing journals compared to the B-C-CA engines. You'd be by far better off and money ahead just using the newer engine.
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 5:38pm |
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To begin with a D14 (138-160) crank has pressure oiling to the rod bearings, whereas the C has splash oiling through the rod holes. This is the difference in the two different rods, otherwise the dimensions are the same. The main bearings are too large to allow the C block to be machined that much, The only way is to make the bearing journals smaller, then you mess up the drilled oil passages. The simple solution is to just have a C crank stroked. Then there is the difference in the two camshafts as well, the C cam has the holes to spray oil to the rods. The C engine can easily (but costly) be made to produce around 75 HP and live. The one I've done in the CA has been running for more than 15 years.
Edited by PaulB - 11 Feb 2015 at 5:42pm
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dgerth
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Joined: 27 Nov 2012
Location: NC Wash
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Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 8:11am |
I went with the 160 motor and if I had to do over, I would use the 149 mostly due to the cost of parts and availability. Some parts will swap from the 125 but not as many as one would like. I stayed at the 160 cid due to available pistons. Have'nt pulled it yet so will see this season. dg
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AJ
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Location: mo
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Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 8:31am |
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What mods would be required to put a d14 crank in a C block? Would that technically make it a "stroker?" What are the differences between the d14 stroke on the crank and the C stroke of the crank?
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Can't fix stupid
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
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Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 7:06am |
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125 : 3 3/8" Bore 3 1/2" Stroke, Rods spray oiled from Cam
149 : 3 1/2" Bore 3 7/8" Stroke, Rods pressure oiled from Crank
Gary
Edited by Gary - 13 Feb 2015 at 7:11am
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MATPA47
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Joined: 16 Feb 2015
Location: Marengo ohio
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Posted: 26 Feb 2015 at 6:36pm |
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So a d14 crank, sleeves and Pistons will fit a C block?
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Macon Rounds
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Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Location: Pittsburgh Pa
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Posted: 26 Feb 2015 at 10:52pm |
Hey AJ
Just put the D14 engine i have for sale in your C ...... It will still have stock apperance. :-)
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The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate
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MATPA47
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Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 8:28am |
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So a d14 engine will bolt right in a b or c? What about clutch? What do you have for sale Macon ?
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 9:41pm |
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I agree with the Doc. Why go through all the BS with interchanging engine parts. Put the whole darn D14 engine in! Probably would make a cool, mean runnin' Orange machine...!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 28 Feb 2015 at 6:12am |
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As I mentioned previously NONE of the D14 parts are a drop in fit to the CE engine. If you have rules that don't allow the newer engine, which looks different enough that even a JD or IH guy could detect the difference, then the only way yo go is to build a (big) CE block. If the rules do allow the Newer engine then use all the flywheel and clutch parts from the C. You may have to locate the stepped front studs, Most of the D10- D12-D14-D15 engines have 5/8" Threads in the front and all of the BE/CE engines are 1/2". The the only other difference is the Thermostat housing, which won't allow the temperature gauge to go there, but just use a D10/12 top radiator hose.
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