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washing combines

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Mike Plotner View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 May 2015 at 7:12am
anyone wash their combines? I've been thinking of washing up the old L2 for my grad party, being as its my pride and joy and biggest investment... dad says it will cause bearing failure, but they wash their rotary deeres all the time. id think if you washed it, then greased it and ran it for a little bit it would be fine
2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!
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aras View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aras Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 7:25am
We wash our L3 every year after the season and a good blow down with the air compressor
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:10am
A lot of combines get a bath.I would think how the wand is used has more to do with brg trouble than the washing it's self.
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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:20am
Make sure after you do wash, or while you wash, that you dont end up with clumps of crud around the pulley and idlers. We never used to wash ours, but after a small fire on an L2 engine, we try to do it before every season now. I cant tell you if it causes more bearing failures or not, but I try to leave them alone for the most part. Our motors arent leaky, but we end up with a lot of dirty chaff up in the engine compartment and down the hydraulic side regardless, it seems, so I always try to get all that junk cleaned off. The only problem I have had doing that is that I have ran a belt or two off when I stared the combine back up with a clump of crud hiding in the wrong place that was washed downhill.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:32am
the poeple that keep there equipment clean are the ones that keeps equipment in the best shape and have the least amount of troble  because it gets fixed before it is totaly broke down
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Lonn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:39am
Just don't get too close to bearings and you'd be fine. Let it dry good before it goes in a dark shed. That's what I generally do although I haven't washed it down in a couple years but do blow it off with compressed air. Whatever works for you.
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 9:47am
We never really wash ours. I understand though how it is your pride and joy and you want to take good care of it. In fact, our L3 still has the chalk delivery numbers written on the header! It's never really gotten that wet I guess. We always just blow it off really good with the air compressor. Just do what you already said. Wash it, grease it, and run it a little. Then do the obvious, just walk around and see if there's anything abnormal, check the Tattletale, etc. I think you'll be fine, just don't blast the bearings with the wand. Post before and after pics too! Big smile
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ryan(IN) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryan(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 9:59am
Same as what most said before. We always tried to wash our L2 and L3. Just like others said don't blast the bearings to much and we would always run the machine at an idle for a few mins after washing. It never seemed to make the bearings go out faster but who knows.
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 10:08am
Our combine sadly isn't a Gleaner, but we use a hose on it (Not a high pressure wand), and an air compressor. We've yet to have that cause a problem. I'd just be careful around the bearings.
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Unit3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unit3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 10:21am
I am a Gleaner cleaner. I use the Hotsy on them every year. I don't hold the watergun on the bearings, just pass over them. Try this once. Go to Kmart and get a bottle of Blue Max. It is a metal polish. Rub it on a clean spot of tinwork that your dad won't see, just as a test. Rub it in and wipe it off. That small spot of old sheet metal will look like chrome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 12:55pm
High pressure air only.

We bought a combine that had 200 hours on it that had been washed with a pressure washer. I changed bearings in it that the previous combine had 3000 hours on and had not been changed before it had 800 hours on it, oh and you don't get any warranty from Gleaner when you have to change those bearings with such a low time on them either.
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Pat the Plumber CIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat the Plumber CIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 1:09pm
In 85-86 I worked for a seed corn farm . They had a brand new green combine . Local dealer had his top mechanic show the farm manager and operators proper cleaning . Guess they were having problems with fires . I missed out on that but the next summer I got stuck hand washing and waxing the whole outside . Worst week of my life
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 2:29pm
This may sound stupid, but are Gleaners galvanized? I know I should probably know this, but the old ones aren't painted. They're just bare gray metal. What keeps it from rusting? I just don't see rusty Gleaners.
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Mike Plotner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Plotner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 2:38pm
galvanizing is what keeps it from rusting, just like a grain bin.

I was wondering what would bring back the shine on it, especially by the exhaust!
2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!
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Unit3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unit3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 5:20pm
Try Blue Max. You can by it at Kmart. Try it on a small area. The old galvanized will shine like chrome.
2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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Mike Plotner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Plotner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 6:00pm
have to look for it, actually about a year ago, our local k mart (15 miles away) went out of business!

Edited by Mike Plotner - 26 May 2015 at 6:00pm
2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:31pm
I wash my L2 at least twice a year if not three times. Once after wheat due to my severe allergies and once after corn so it's nice and clean for winter. After I'm done washing it in either leave it outside in the hot sun or put it in the shop and turn the furnace up nice and high and turn all the fans on to dry it out, then I grease the combine and run it for a minute. I usually spend all day washing it to do a thorough job and use hot (as hot as my washer will go) water on the galvanized tin to clean it up and that brings the shine back somewhat. I don't get any water in the rad or alternators but use compressed air to blow them out. I try to avoid a hard blast of water at bearings but certainly don't worry about lightly spraying water at them and getting them wet, and I don't find it reduces the life of the bearings or anything else.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC7610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2015 at 8:40am
Washing it once a year and putting it away in the shed can't be worse than leaving one sit out in the weather all year...
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2015 at 9:08am
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

This may sound stupid, but are Gleaners galvanized? I know I should probably know this, but the old ones aren't painted. They're just bare gray metal. What keeps it from rusting? I just don't see rusty Gleaners.

Sometime in the last several years they started painting Gleaners instead of using galvanize.All conventionals were galvanized.
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AC7060IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2015 at 10:41am
Pressure washer can push water into sealed bearings. Once water is in the sealed bearing, look out. Winter freezing will expand water which will wreck anything where its sitting in or under...
It's good to pressure clean hydraulic leaks during season to keep fire away. But remember, leave oil residue alone at end if season for off-season storage. Mice don't like oil, so it can help discourage them from chewing. Spray down wire harnesses & consoles with a light coat of motor oil before storing. Also set mouse traps daily at first frost for 2-3 weeks to rid mice.
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