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Frank1981 
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Joined: 05 Apr 2015
Location: Pierson, MI
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 Topic: HD-3 Dozer Questions
Posted: 05 Apr 2015 at 5:53pm |
After 10 years of sitting in the barn, I decided to get my grandpas old dozer going. A fresh battery and some diesel is all it took. I would like to get the machine going so I can use it around the farm. After playing with it I've noticed a few things in need of repair and would like a little more info. 1. I noticed it has quite a bit of blow by. Is this common in these machines, or should I plan on a top end? 2. I measured from a track pin to 4 away and came up with 24.75. I read that 24.1 is new and 24.5 is completely worn out. Where can I find new pins? I haven't been able to locate any by Google. Or do they have to be custom made? 3. The steering clutches don't seem to work much. The left works a little bit but the right hardly seems to turn it at all. Could it be adjusted or do they have to be rebuilt? I'm still trying to figure out the year and more details about it. I have a manual on the way. Thanks for any help! Frank 
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Calvin Schmidt
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario Can.
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Posted: 05 Apr 2015 at 7:58pm |
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I can help with a few things. It looks to be an early HD-3 likely 60-62 because there is no safety around the thumb button on the shuttle lever. Serial number is on the left side on the torque tube (clutch housing). Parts for the that 175 diesel engine are very hard to find. May be best to leave it alone or you might be into a big money pit. Can't help with the tracks. If the steering clutch disengages, it's working. If you are soft ground it will be easier for one track to drive the crawler straight ahead instead of turning the crawler. I alway have to use the steering brake after releasing the steering clutch to get my H-3 to turn on soft ground. Nice to have the 6 way blade.
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Frank1981
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Location: Pierson, MI
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Posted: 06 Apr 2015 at 6:02am |
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Thanks, I will try using the brakes as well as steering clutches. I will also look for a serial number.
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Dozer
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Posted: 06 Apr 2015 at 6:44am |
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Steering clutch test. Drive the machine forward. Disengage both steering clutches. If the machine stops the steering clutches are working. If it turns then you have found the side that is dragging. If after driving the machine around a bit and one side does not turn well look at the brakes.
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Coke-in-MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
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Posted: 06 Apr 2015 at 11:19am |
Stick your hand up into track to feel the bushing , is it round or oblong , is top of bush round or worn , how do top and bottom compare ? If top seems round then the pins and bushings can be turned 180 deg and a new wear surface is brought into play inside of bushing - also measure rail height (link from pad to top that rides on idler or rollers) this is another critical measurement as if to worn it's not worth turning pins . HD3 , HD4, 655 track the same pitch .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Frank1981
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Posted: 06 Apr 2015 at 7:33pm |
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I didn't have a bunch of time to mess with it tonight but I managed to try a few things.
1. I fired it up and drove it a little bit. When I would pull both steering clutches, it would come to a stop. So I guess they are fine and I just didn't know what I was doing. If I pulled a steering clutch and used a brake, it turned just fine.
2. I felt the tops of the pins and they are round. I also measured the rail height and they were around 3 and a 1/16 on the right and 3" even on the left. Is this acceptable?
I also have a few more questions.
1. Do I use the clutch when I use the shuttle clutch? If not does it matter if it is at a idle or WOT?
2. Does anyone know the torque spec on the bolt for the water pump. It seems to move. Nothing is leaking. But the fan started rubbing on the shroud and I moved the pump by hand.
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Calvin Schmidt
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Location: Ontario Can.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2015 at 8:31pm |
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Good on the steering clutches! You do NOT have to use the clutch to use the shuttle. You do not have to idle down to use the shuttle. The shuttle is actually two oil bath clutch packs-one on the forward shaft and the other on a counter rotating shaft which creates reverse.
Edited by Calvin Schmidt - 06 Apr 2015 at 8:33pm
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Frank1981
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 10:01am |
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Frank1981
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 10:01am |
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Frank1981
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 10:02am |
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Frank1981
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 4:54pm |
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I received the manual today and I noticed it calls for a water pump brace behind the water pump. Mine is missing wich explains why the water pump is moving. Does anyone know where I can find one of these braces?
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Eric B
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 5:22pm |
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Interesting custom made hood...makes it like a bigger AC bulldozer "wannabe" :)
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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pinball
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 6:13pm |
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Your left track is to tight. check your manual but I think there Is suppose to be an inch and a half of slack in it. you can put a straight edge from the center roller on top of the track to the rear or front and measure the distance from the bar to the track. that will affect your left side. that side looks as though you have plenty of adjustment. to me it looks very good. right side im not sure. looks as though its a little to loose and doesn't look to be much adjustment left as the idler is almost tom the bolt that holds the sliding plate on. Oversll its a nice looking dozer. Manual will help you greatly. norm
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Frank1981
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 6:53pm |
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Thanks guys. My grandpa was a sheet metal guy. It is put together nice.
I had a feeling the left track is too tight and the right is too loose. I also have a bad feeling that the left was tightened on purpose, like maybe it was falling off. I guess after I loosen it, I will find out.
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Gary(OR)
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Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 11:56pm |
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Count the links/shoes, I'm pretty sure 1 has been removed from the left side. It's a common, temporary fix for worn chains that won't stay on and adjustment is maxed out. Wear is accelerated at this point as the track pitch is lengthened (worn pins & bushings) and doesn't match the sprocket pitch.
Edited by Gary(OR) - 07 Apr 2015 at 11:57pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 08 Apr 2015 at 5:24am |
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L= 33, R=34, by my count, but I ain't got the best eyes out there...
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Eric B
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Posted: 08 Apr 2015 at 1:50pm |
 DiyDave wrote:
L= 33, R=34, by my count, but I ain't got the best eyes out there... |
Your count looks good....your eyes are good :)
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 09 Apr 2015 at 11:41pm |
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never ran a crawler that turned without using the brake
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Gary(OR)
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Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 3:16am |
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On level ground, it should make a broad turn without using the brake. Going up hill, it'll turn tighter...
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 9:47am |
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looks like the tracks are very worn. if you look at the bottom of each drive sprocket, the chain is coming out of the sprocket like it is out of time which indicates too much internal wear on the tracks. the chains should sit into the sprocket evenly all the way around. this will wear out the sprocket very quickly. if the top of the bushing on the track is round, have them turned and it will be back in time.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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