wd 3019-40 wide block

i have a number of them f/s make great puller blocks thanks steve 507 766 0551

they have more room on the bottom for longer stroke,it like a wd45 block but still has plate behind oil filter for the stock look,top is the same thanks

Ok, that'd what I need for the bottom end, is it any bigger on top? Most importantly could I fit a 5 inch piston down in it? I'm ok with removing block material, but is there enough there for a 5 inch piston?

I've got alot of engines...where is this number found? What years were they in?

Ok Thanks that's what I needed to here. Does anyone know which block had the wider top end?

Edited by bigcountry48 - 14 Feb 2015 at 6:56pm

Ok, I'll go for a 4.5 inch piston then, that should give me plenty of room and a bigger piston.

Where did you get your pistons? I only plan on doing a 5.5 inch stroke. Also where did you get your sleeves?

That depends on what you run out of first.  If you spin out, not much engine damage.  If you power out, then you have problems. Look at the big boys.  They take a 426 AC or 414 Binder, run them to 600+ cubes, add 2 or 3 MORE turbos, and about 10x the stock horsepower.  If all goes well they can get a lot of hooks out of one engine.
AaronSEIA

wow was gone for weekend, the -40 block was in the late 53 wds they have a wide block on bottom on the side with out cam,if you ever tried to put wd45 crank in a wc the rods almost hit the side,this block is wider in that area,so if you can get a 6 in stroke in a wd45 it will also go in this block and looks like a wc ,in my area we call when cheater blocks,but legal

Those late model "WD" blocks are also stronger than older blocks. Above the center main is filled in with cast iron. Old blocks are hollow. WD-45 blocks are probably still a bit stronger with no side plate.

Bill_MN wrote: Wow, is it worth it to push these blocks that far? Turning sleeves and removing metal from rods and cranks for clearance things start getting thin while at the same time putting more stress on parts with high CR and RPMs. I can understand keeping up with competition just wondering if you guys expect these engines to last more than a couple pulls?

 With that much bore and stroke, there would be no need to up the Compression Ratio or the rpm's I know some guys are running stock rpm and normal factory compression ratios (LP) on Minnie Moe engines and getting 150 HP on the dyno. They do have a bit more room inside than a 201 block since some are up over 800 cu in, in the 350 ( or whatever it was) block.
 I've seen the inside of a couple. Allison pistons, billet rods, the cam ground half way in two for rods to clear. They run 3 or 4 seasons without having a wrench put to em. and look totally stock on the outside.