is shorter hitch better?

A shorter hitch would make a smaller lever so if you're trying to get the front end of the ground, no a longer hitch would do more to achieve this. This is a geometric thought. Someone with pulling experience may have a different answer

Edited by thendrix - 04 Sep 2014 at 8:55am

Theoretically, the closer you hitch to something, the easier it pulls. That's why everyone wants a short drawbar. Getting the tractor balanced is the most important part of tractor pulling. Too little front end weight means the front end comes up and you lose weight transfer. Too much front end weight and the tractor spins because of a lack of weight on the drive wheels.

My opinion is that the drawbar setup is the most important part of successfully pulling a stock tractor (Maybe that's why I haven't had a very good summer!)

There is no right or wrong. I pulled on a stone dust with no front weights (WD45 in the 3500 and 4500 lb. classes). I couldn't come close to getting the front end light

I dropped the air pressure in the tires (16.9x28) and pulled on 2 clay tracks. With 650 lbs. on the front (in the 4500), it got high enough that it scared me and I stopped.

There are so many variables. How much air in your tires? I am running about 8 lbs. (I have gone as low as 5.5) and they seem to bite good. If your tires aren't getting a bite, you will never get the front end light.

Usually, a shorter drawbar means less weight transfer, which equals a heavier front end. It's all leverage. Unless you can get more traction to lighten up the front end, I would probably try a slightly longer drawbar, to try to get the front end light.

What are you running for tires and how much air? Is there any calcium chloride in your tires (front or rear)?

In my mind the shorter the hitch the better. For one there are normally rules for a hitch minnumim from axel to rear, never a maximum. For example: you grab a broom in the middle and try to pick up the end you sweep with vs. pick up very end of the broom " oppiset the Brussel" and pick up. Much harder if I have explained that right. Our rules and 15" from center of axel back

Wfowner 16.9 28 Goodyear's 40% tread no fluid in any

Fluid in the rears would definitely help with traction. That's the reason for it

That's why I have pie weights on too

My experience with fluid in the back tires when pulling was that it caused the tractor to "chatter". The reason people use it is cheap weight. I know no one who runs competitively that uses fluid in the rear tires.

I, too, run Goodyears. I have the old 45 degree Traction Sure Grips. How much air are you running? Have someone watch your tires next time you pull, to see if you are getting any sidewall flex. I was amazed at the difference when I dropped the air pressure. For starters, I would try 8 psi.

I know they have been around since I was pulling in the 70's, but I have a contraption (for lack of a better word) that consists of two clip on chucks, with some old air line connected to a Tee. I have a tire valve coming out of the Tee. I clip the chuck on both rear tires at the same time and add or remove air from both tires at the same time by using the valve at the tee. It makes sure I have equal pressure in the tires. For the $10 in parts and some old air line, it works great.

Tires and tire pressure!!! More important than HP on a farm stock puller with a speed limit IMO! I had some tires with REALLY hard sidewalls and consistantly got my tail kicked for over a year. Same situation as you; Couldn't even think about getting the front end light on any track! Switched to different rubber and started playing with my pressure and I'm always in the top 2 or 3 now. No other changes.

After reading how I typed that I just want to say I appreciate everyone's input on this subject.

Sounds like your not doing so well with what you've got set-up now, so take notes here and pretty much ignore those who have never pulled. You want your "hitch point" as short as allowed by Rules AND as high as allowed by Rules. These numbers are usually 20 inches high maximum and 18 inches short minimum from the center of the rear wheels. This is I'm sure MUCH shorter than you are now. The hitch point is defined as the point the sled hook pulls against. Using a floppy twisted clevis is stupid. Bolt it solid with lots of flat washers so it can't sag. Better yet, have a welded pulling eye or a 1 inch thick plate with at least a 3 inch hole burned in it. Maintain that height under load at all costs, so bolt things solid. Tire pressure as low as you're running isn't in my play book. I'd be probably at 10 psi to start. The firmer the track, the higher the air pressure (up to a point). I'd never go more than 12 psi on your tires. Too soft just sees to it your drawbar sinks lower and easier under load. A D-17 NF on a good biting track at 5,000 lbs weight should be able to lift the front wheels off the ground. I'd sure not pull one with a wide front end. Also, any good tuned D-17 should always be able to run 2nd gear low side in most conditions or the high side of 1st gear minimum. If you are running slower, you need to shift up. I get the feeling your drawbar is at 18 inches high and 26 or more inches long. You won't win much like that.

I do have a narrow front on this tractor and is well tuned also.

Very good point Dr.! Great way to explain it also!

Listen to the experienced pullers. Why do you think there is a drawbar height limit& a limit how far forward the drawbar can be.....

Big Orange wrote: The distance from the hitch point to the drawbar support is very important, as well as the angle of the drawbar, front to rear. It's all about leverage.