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colda01 
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Mass.
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 Topic: Lindsay Air Compressor question
Posted: 22 Nov 2009 at 2:21pm |
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JoeO(CMO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Cent Missouri
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Posted: 22 Nov 2009 at 4:01pm |
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colda01
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Location: Mass.
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Posted: 22 Nov 2009 at 4:21pm |
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Thanks for the link Joe! That is helpful. There is a special head on the left side of the engine where piston 1,3,5 and 7 are. ( left side ) There are no plugs on this side, this is the side that makes the compressed air. So only 4 plug wires are used on the distributor cap for pistons 2,4,6, and 8 on the opposite side. (right side) I need to figure out where they are connected on the Distributor CAP. If anyone know any information would be appreciated.
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M Diesel
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Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Location: Las Vegas
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Posted: 26 Feb 2010 at 5:43pm |
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Safe to presume it still has the 8 cylinder cap?
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colda01
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Posted: 26 Feb 2010 at 6:15pm |
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Hi thanks for your response. Yes it is a 8 cyl cap. I still don't have it running, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Dan
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wfmurray
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Bostic NC
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Posted: 26 Feb 2010 at 7:07pm |
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Put wires in the same as aneight except leave out 1 3 5 7 . I think that might work .
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RyanTN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Stewart Co, TN
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Posted: 26 Feb 2010 at 8:02pm |
Dan, The idea intrigued me and I did a little online research. It looks like these conversions use a different cam AND head. I couldn't find the info posted, but it should be easy to figure out, assuming the distributor hasn't been removed since it was last running.
I suggest you remove the valve cover and distributor cap. Bar the engine over and watch the valves. Start with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and the timing tab. You should be able to tell when the engine is on a fire (or compression) stroke when both valves are closed and the piston is at Top Dead Center. Mark the position the rotor is pointing to on the base of distributor with the cylinder number in marker so that you can see it when you put the distributor cap back on. Do this for each of the cylinders on the firing side. Once the cap is on run your wires from the cap (position above your number) to that cylinder. Make sense?
Edited by RyanTN - 26 Feb 2010 at 8:11pm
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colda01
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Posted: 27 Feb 2010 at 5:03pm |
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Thanks guys , I think I have it wired correctly now. It looks like it fires on 2,4,6,and 8
I still didn't get it to run yet, not even a pop. I have fuel going to the carburetor. I think they have a special type of jet on the carburetor to reduce the fuel flow. Seeing as it just runs on 4 cylinders. This jet may be clogged, I need to check this out. If anyone has any ideas send them my way.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Joined: 27 Sep 2009
Location: lansdale pa.
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Posted: 28 Feb 2010 at 10:06am |
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to see if it is fuel or spark issue, try using some ether(sparingly) to see if it will pop. could still be a timing issue if not. try the valve cover trick mentioned but see the order in which the cylinders come up to top dead center, compression stroke, to determine your own firing order. do not rely on the factory guides unless it is for this engine. they may have changed the order due to only using one side of the engine. check for spark. check points are making contact, check they are working by turning the engine over until they are closed. remove coil wire from both ends, cap and coil, take an insulated screwdriver and open the points by hand, being sure not to touch the screwdriver to any metal, just push on the points, with the ignition on, they should have a small spark. set the cap and firing order correctly to the order you found earlier and try the ether. it should at least pop. it sounds like the firing order is off. good luck.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Dakota Dave
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Location: ND
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Posted: 10 Mar 2010 at 11:11am |
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If I rember correctly the distributor turns counter clockwise. Most of the time when I used to get a non running dodge in the shop the wires were timed in the wrong direction.
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bryani289swmi
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dorr, MI
Points: 491
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Posted: 10 Mar 2010 at 6:32pm |
Dan,
Before I bought my Sullair we had homebuilt a similar unit from a 390 Ford, for some reason the 390 Ford and 360 Chrysler work the best for the set-up. We plugged a carb jet to keep it from flooding, we had also used the original distributer. I had some information on these homebuilt units, I'll look when I get home this weekend to see if I still have it. If I do I'll make a copy and get it out to you. Just curious on how the pump head is set-up on yours. We made a head with reed valves, it took us awhile to find the best steel for the reeds and springs, we replaced them quite often up to that point. Good luck.
Bryan
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Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollowpoints explode on impact.
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colda01
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Mass.
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Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 5:42am |
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Thanks for your reply's guys. I'll check the rotation of the distributor, that is a real good point that I didn't think of.
Bryan, I would appreciate any documentation you can send my way. You can email me at dtcolella@yahoo.com to send attachment.
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bryani289swmi
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Location: Dorr, MI
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 4:34pm |
Dan,
I looked through my files and haven't been able to find the information. I'll keep your email and get it to you if I do find it. Thanks.
Bryan
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Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollowpoints explode on impact.
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colda01
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 4:43pm |
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Sounds good, thanks Bryan
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