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farmergene 
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Joined: 20 Dec 2009
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 Topic: WD versus WD45 question
Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 6:37pm |
I am overhauling a WD. I keep getting asked at teh parts store if I have a 201 or 226. Even the gasket set asks for this. I thought 201 meant 201 cubic inches and 226 meant 226 cubic inches. But, the parts book asks this for both the WD and the WD45. I assumed the 201 was a WD and the 226 was a WD45. What's the difference in these two numbers and which one do I likely have?
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MNLonnie
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Location: Baxter MN
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 6:40pm |
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It is cubic inches and you probably have a 201 if it's a WD, as long as the motor hasn't been swapped.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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farmergene
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 6:54pm |
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That's what I thought, but why does the parts book ask about both the 201 and 226 under the WD45 section? Shouldn't the only option for a WD45 be the 226? The fact that the book asks about both for a 45 is confusing me. Why do they even ask? Is the book wrong?
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Gary in da UP
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 6:58pm |
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They ask because some parts people graduated from 6 years of college with a Liberal Arts degree. Gary
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 7:12pm |
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common guys, give the parts guy a break. he's doing you a favor checking this. after all these years, it could be either one.
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Gary in da UP
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 7:19pm |
Lou , have you ever been to advance auto and played 20 ????? with those guys when you want an FL-1 filter for a 300 Ford six and they want to know .... does it have an auto trans, does it have air conditioing ??? ...........Give them a break ????
201 or 226, it's still the same gasket set.
Edited by Gary in da UP - 15 Feb 2010 at 7:27pm
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Dans 7080
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 7:20pm |
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The 201 is a 4"bore and 4" stroke motor the 226 is a 4"bore and 4.5" stroke. The WD-45 came with the 226 and the WD came with the 201. I am un aware of a WD-45 with a 201 or a WD with a 226 (unless swapped). Im sure it has been done many times tho.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 8:08pm |
Here's some pics of a WD and a WD45 engine. The first is a WD with the 201 note the plate on the right side of the engine. #2 shot is a WD45 with a 226 engine and note no plate on the right side of the engine. The last shot is the location of the SER# on the left side of the engine. You can't go by the bore of the engine, They made over bore for both engines. Don
Edited by Don(MO) - 15 Feb 2010 at 8:26pm
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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DREAM
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 8:32pm |
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Gary, you should'a told em it was an FL-1A motorcraft. I bet the last letter was throwin 'em off. LOL! Also Fram PH8-A. But they still have to punch in all the other nonsense, cause the computer won't even let you check out without it. By the way, you probly already knew, but most Ford small block V-8s and both sixes used that same filter until 1996. That's why I like NAPA. I can go in there and tell them I want to change the oil in either one of my 1995 F-150s, and they hand me all the stuff I need without asking a thing.
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 8:33pm |
 Gary in da UP wrote:
Lou , have you ever been to advance auto and played 20 ????? with those guys when you want an FL-1 filter for a 300 Ford six and they want to know .... does it have an auto trans, does it have air conditioing ??? ...........Give them a break ????
201 or 226, it's still the same gasket set. |
Gary,
I feel your pain, yes I have. To be fair, as a rule, I only go to Advanced or Auto Zone in a dire emergency, for that reason, and for some others. I know of one particular store that would give you anything if he didn't have what you needed in stock. He would then immediately order the part you needed, knowing that you would be back the next day with the "wrong" part. He would make some sort of excuse, give you what you needed, and you would be on your way. The reason for this is so you wouldn't go somewhere else when he didn't have what you needed!!! I don't know if that was policy across the chain or just that store.
However, having a wife who ran a NAPA store, and having worked there part time for her, I know the other side of the story. You get the people who will walk in lay a grease and dirt caked lump of something on the counter and say, "I need one of these", and get real smart mouthed if you ask anything about it: "you're the parts expert, don't you know?" We had a garage order an exhaust pipe for something one time. He came back hopping mad, said it was the wrong one. One of our drivers went up, the guy grabs the pipe, holds it up in place and said, "see, the @#$$%@((&*&^^&** doesn't fit"? The driver took the pipe, turned it end for end and slipped it on!
And then, there's the case of one vehicle (I don't remember which one now, but I don't remember it being American) if a customer ordered brakes for it, you had to ask 1) what color is it, and 2)what radio does it have. I kid you not! The only way to identify what brake pads it took was by the color of the car and radio. It seems this car was produced with a special package with upgraded brakes, but was only available with certain other options (thus the color and radio). These are the extremes, I know, but I still know both sides of the fence.
lou
Edited by LouSWPA - 15 Feb 2010 at 8:34pm
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farmergene
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Posted: 15 Feb 2010 at 9:32pm |
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Thanks guys. I would guess I haved a 201 since the engine is supposed to be a WD, not a 45. But I am going to check the stroke tomorrow just to make sure someone hasn't put a 45 crank in it. It does have a 4 1/8 bore; so, I guess someone could have dropped in a 4 1/2 inch stroke crank. The old motor always was very strong for a WD. I've heard some nightmares about getting the rear main seal in. Anyone have any recommendations before I start fighting it? Any other reassembly tricks from you experienced guys would be appreciated. I've done lots of motors, but never one of these.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 6:48am |
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If the rear main seal is a rope type, put it in the groove and then use a large diameter socket and roll it down. Ran into that on my Oliver 60 rebuild. Even then, it was still tough to get the seal adapter on.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Lonn
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Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 7:00am |
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Glue the seal in place with that yellow gooey 3M weather stripping and let it cure with it installed and also the crank installed. Then the next day remove crank and soak the felt seal with engine oil or it will seize the the crank when you run the engine. Don't forget the key shaped gaskets. If I remember right the rear seal housing must be flush with the block when you install it. Got an AC repair book? If not, get one.
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 7:43am |
I had an '88 motor home with a Ford 460 in it. I bought an ignition tun up kit for it from NAPA which included a distributor cap, it didn't fit. Took it back with the old one. counter man did searching and found that the right cap was made for engines built from '90 on.
Dusty
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Ohio Orange
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Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 10:47am |
Lou, That was an American car, mid to late 70's GM. Cutlass,Regal ?? The Blue ones took different brakes. I ran a parts store in 87 and 88. Couldn't believe that question was in the parts book !
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