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engine help

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bmartin55 View Drop Down
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Joined: 20 Feb 2013
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmartin55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: engine help
    Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 11:33pm
nead help...Cry my motor didt pull to good...need  specs on e gleaner motor...compres&valves..timeing..Clap     thanks   bob
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2013 at 11:38am
A stock E gleaner engine isn't going to pull well against non stock engines but you can listen to the others or you can take some money and go to the horsepower store and get you some stroke and 12.1 compression cam lift around .550 on the intake work the intake ports and be more close to what your going to be competing against. I an Ed were talking to Ronnie another engine shop owner race engine design a couple of weeks ago about our 440 cubic inch allis project for a client . Ronnie couldnt believe the machine work or money that goes into one of theses antique pulling engines . Its easy to tie up 10 grand in one  and 14 grand will get you a 430ci sb2 turn key. but thats a different class of pulling and sb2 engines dont make the torque so 12 grand will get you into a 14 or 13 degree that will make torque and win pulling in the v8 classes. jmho

Edited by mlpankey - 28 Apr 2013 at 11:55am
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2013 at 12:58pm
Run a compression test with all the spark plugs removed, throttle wide open and a battery charger on the battery. I don't care WHAT the compression is, it just needs to be the same between cylinders. Timing is adjusted to F-25 or FIRE mark on the flywheel with engine running wide open throttle. If your flywheel is a WC-WD-WD45 the FIRE mark is really F-30 which is too much.....back it off a bit to F-25 degrees.  Your post is simply so vague on what's going on, it's very hard to help, other than verify good compression and proper timing. What have you changed since the last time it ran good ???????????????????......Bigger rear tires maybe??  Valve tappets adjusted to .015" COLD on intake and exhaust.
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2013 at 1:26pm
doc it appears that bmartin55 is where cotncrazy was a year or so ago . So my advice to bmartin55 is to do a search on cotncrazy's post he is good about posting what he has tried and what seams to work for him .  He even posted what he settled his valve lash in on for intake and exhaust if I remember correctly.

Edited by mlpankey - 28 Apr 2013 at 1:27pm
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nborga87 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nborga87 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2013 at 6:30pm
Where exactly are those marks on the flywheel? And how do you check the timing with them being on the flywheel? Is that a dumb question haha
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nborga87 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nborga87 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2013 at 10:57pm
ok nevermind haha i found  mark. its a faint line with an f next to it. and you line it upup withthe center of the bellhousing at high idle correct?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 6:23am
Correct, yes. If this is a WC-WD-WD45 that mark is 30 degrees BTDC. If you have a Gleaner combine engine (more compression) the timing needs to be at 25 degrees BTDC, so if you didn't make a new mark on the flywheel before installation of the engine, you need to now while in chassis. Not too hard to determine 5 degrees when you look at the TDC mark and the Fire mark being a total of 30 degrees.
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bmartin55 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmartin55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 9:21pm
thanks  too all...i havent did any thing yet ..just pulled plugs to check comp and plugs was soked with fuel...have  pentronix..e3 plgs...92 oct gas..13x6  28 tires on it,,,air filter K@N  on top of hood...I THINK ITS NEEDING MOVED DOWN BY CARB.....did 90ft down track till it run like Embarrassed then i by passed gove  got 131.24 feet after that....the other puller that     pulled it only got 90 ft...    4500 po class..       thanks    gbl     glp     BOB                        PSS  COTNCRZY   PM ME   need cost to make it run....good   lol
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 10:37pm
Quit using better gas than it needs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    it won't make any more HP and probably LESS HP with 92 octane versus 87 octane.
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bmartin55 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmartin55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 11:00pm
thanks  dr...  ill do that... THANKS   BOB    GBL
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 6:29am
Sounds to me like you've had an ignition problem with "wet" spark plugs.  Fresh air intake above the hood is better unless you have a poorly designed pipe connecting to the carb (like a pipe with a "kink" in the bend instead of a smooth mandrel bend) or your exhaust pipe is too short allowing fumes to be pulled into the intake. Gas use with stock compression needs to be 87 to 89 octane and no more.
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