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C carb. |
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allischalmerguy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Deep River, IA Points: 2893 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:41pm |
I have a question on our C carburetor.
I went to a vendor and said I need a new kit for my C carb. They gave me a kit. When I got it home, I noticed that the belcrank on the throttle lever was shorter than the one on the tractor. I then took it back and showed the longer belcrank and got a kit for a longer belcrank, but I am not sure it is the right kit for the carb.I put it in but we can't get it to idle right. How can one tell if you get the right kit? Does the carb have a model number? where do you look for it? Thanks Mike |
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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First check all the adjustments from the governor to the stop screw on the back of the carburetor. Remember that the adjustment screw at the neck of the carburetor is the (idle) adjustment screw (only)
If the cross over arm adjustment is correct then the stop screw on the back sets the (idle)(rpm). The (idle) adjustment screw adjusts the air fuel mix so it will run smooth at the stop screw (rpm) setting. When installing the butterfly on the new shaft it needs to close off all but a very small crack when the belcrank is pushed all the way back which is set with the stop screw.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11992 |
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Whenever you get rebuild kits or service parts for a carburetor, its darn near mandatory to present the ID tag information for that particular unit to get the correct kit or parts. I know, sometimes a tag isn't always there and the counter guy at the parts store needs to go the "long" way in looking up the application and hope its correct. Sometimes he's successful that way, sometimes not. In the case of the throttle shaft arm being to short, most of the time, a new throttle shaft isn't needed. The bore wears before the throttle shaft does, so if it needs throttle shaft work, the bore needs to be sleeved, and the same throttle shaft can be used unless the shaft/arm assy. has been damaged or worn beyond repair. To add to Dicks suggestions, make sure you have the throttle blade installed the correct way. I've come across some carbs that came in for rebuild that the throttle blade was incorrectly installed. Of coarse someone was already there before it arrived to me, but in some model carbs, its easy to install the blade incorrectly. The tapered side of the blade needs to be flush against the throttle bore. If its in incorrectly, you'll never get the engine to idle down. As far as model numbers, if its a small bore Zenith (which on a C it should be) the tag would be riveted to the fuel bowl. Two sets of numbers will be stamped in that tag. Outside number closest to the edge of the disc or tag will have the Allis number. The inside number closest to the rivet will be the Zenith ID number. ie- 9707 or 9707A. If the carb is a small bore Marvel, the tag will be riveted to the side of the fuel bowl area. The numbers on a M/S carb usually start off with TSX-XXX then three digits. ie- "TSX-514" Large bore Marvels usually will have the ID tag riveted to the throttle bore in front of the carb. Usually the tag is square with its ID number. ie- TSX464 TSX950 etc. HTH |
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allischalmerguy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Deep River, IA Points: 2893 |
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Thanks Dick and Steve, we will check out this stuff. Lots of help.
Thank you Mike |
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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