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over hauling a D19D |
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Jess ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: ND Points: 262 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:24pm |
Going to start on a D19D engine overhaul have a complete gas engine out of a C2 gleaner to use for a block cant get a major kit from agco anymore any advice will be appreciated was told to set linner protrution at 4 instead of 2 Thanks Jess
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D-17_Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Several supplyers of good aftermarket overhaul kits avaliable. Try some of our fine sponsors. Sandy Lake would be the top of my list.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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Calvin Schmidt ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Can. Points: 4540 |
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Jesse. My next door neighbour has just finished what you are about to start. It took 3 gas blocks until they got a good one. The protrusion must be 4 and there is also a differance in head gaskets. One supplier said it was the same for gas or diesel while another had a thicker ring over sleeve for the diesel. Do yourself a big favour and buy ARP rod bolts and head bolts.
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Jess ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: ND Points: 262 |
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Calvin What was wrong with the gas blocks? counterbors?
Does Arp make a kit for the head bolts or does someone have a list of the part #s you need do the new rod bolts come with lock nuts instead of castle nuts?
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Calvin Schmidt ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Can. Points: 4540 |
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It took the third block to get good counter bores which was the problem with the old block. This is their third rebuild. Following some of the specs out there for this engine will not guarentee a good rebuild as they found out. I'm not sure if they used ARP rod bolts but for sure used ARP for the head. I don't if there is a head bolt kit from ARP. |
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Have about $4K on hand first. I recently did a D17D. I had my machinist set my sleeves at .004 too. The original blueprints call for flush with a +- .002 tolerance. Look at the counter bore area before you have one done. If it's rusty at all, I'd find a different block or have Midwest Cyl Head in Nevada Ia re sleeve the bores. Once you get your block up to par, check your piston height. Blue prints call for .002 to .029 above the deck, not the sleeve. I had a head gasket leak on mine which ended up in a total overhaul. My pistons measured about .060 above the deck and the used head gasket measured .055. I could see where my pistons were hitting the head. When I measured the small ends of the rods I had an average of .008 out of round all on the down side of the bushing. When it was all done, I had .018 stand out on the pistons.
When I called ARP for studs, they said at that time they had enough requests for 262 head studs that they had plans to offer a kit, but hadn't done so yet. I bought all of mine individually. You're just going to have to measure what you have and go from there. I got my sleeves and pistons from Sandy Lake. They told me that they had used A&I parts and were fine with them, but I chickened out and spent a little more for AGCO parts. Don't skimp on your machine work. I have close to $4K in mine and I was lucky my head was in very good condition. Don't let your head shop grind your seats in too deep. If you do, it will start hard cold.
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