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Warren(Oh) 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, Ohio
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 Topic: G carb question
Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 1:51pm |
Finally got time to start my G, runs fine, no knocks.
The question, what can be done to lean the carburetor out ? I have the needle valve screwed down tight, from what I can tell, and it still seems to be flooding, especially when I tap the governor rod, puff of smoke. Just wondering if something else needs replaced.
Thanks
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 5:58pm |
I'd tear the carb apart and remove the float. Shake it near your ear and hear if it 'sloshes'. If so, gas is inside, float has a hole and needs to be sealed.
First , you have to get the gas out.
Wimp way, set in nice hot sun, the gas will evaporate,1 day,2 day, 3 dayze........
My way...grab a heat gun,set on low,wave near float,be gentle though. gas will vent out fast.with some practice you'll get the hang of 'bit of heat,hold back,venting....repeat as necessary. Get a good soldering iron,clean the area around the hole and solder it up solid.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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mmccarty
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Location: SW Wisconsin
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 6:16pm |
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The main jet is not adjustable. What you adjusted was the idle mixture and you turned it the wrong way. Turning it in richens the mixture, turning it out leans it. Start at one and a half turns out and adjust it from there.
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Warren(Oh)
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Location: Jackson, Ohio
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 6:22pm |
Thanks Jay, I thought of the float and checked it. No slosh, I got it new 5 years or so ago, pretty sure it's still good.
Mmccarty, I thought I noticed it lean out when I screwed it out but also thought I was imagining it ! I turned it in till it faltered and then brought it back out and it smoothed out. Probably needs a bit more to be 1 1/2 turns. I'll wind it back in and count out and see how it does, in the morning.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 6:44pm |
Idle adjustment screw is called an idle adjustment screw because it is for adjusting the idle. If it was to adjust any part of the power jet function it would not be called an idle adjustment screw. You adjust the idle with that screw and the stop screw on the back. You work between the two to get the smoothest idle possible. Idle means as slow as the engine will run smooth and stay running when you start to move the tractor. The mixture for the power jet comes from the air being drawn up thru the venturi which causes a vacuum above the venturi. That vacuum draws fuel thru the power jet and up thru the discharge tube into the air streem. The proper orifice size gives the correct amout of fuel to be mixed with whatever amount of air being drawn thru the engine without any manual adjustment. The adjustable power jet works the same way except you have to find the sweet spot that would equal an orifice in a non adjustable jeted carburetor.
Edited by Dick L - 03 Mar 2012 at 6:57pm
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Dick L
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Posted: 05 Mar 2012 at 3:16pm |
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Hey Warren (OH) Did you get your G carburetor adjusted.
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Warren(Oh)
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Posted: 05 Mar 2012 at 5:58pm |
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Well, not exactly. I have the needle valve wound out at least 3 turns, maybe 4 (lost count) still get a puff of smoke when I touch the governor rod, smells really rich just running. Grandpas' always ran that way, I guess they're just not an economical carburetor. Wonder if a Briggs carb could be put on it, one with load needles to adjust everything !?!?! ha
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Dick L
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Posted: 05 Mar 2012 at 8:06pm |
That needle has nothing to do with anything but the idle. Like I said above set the idle with that screw and the stop screw on the back. The stop screw keeps the butterfly from closing off all fuel. That stop screw actually sets the idle RPM. The idle screw adjusts the air for the idle at the stop screw setting to make the engine run smooth at idle. If you are running above idle you can take the idle screw out and put it in your pocket and it won't make a difference. (You have no adjustment to lean out) the fuel above idle. The amount of fuel entering the engine is from the vacuum caused by the venturi. When you open the butterfly it pulles more air buy the discharge tube which in turn brings more fuel thru the power jet orifice which gives you more RPM's. Once you have the idle set changing that screw only messes up your idle setting. I never worry about the amount of turns on any carburetor adjustment screws when getting the correct adjustment. It only gives you a starting point. The carburetor on the tractor in the video has the same non adjustable carburetor that is in the drawing below. This is not the same carburetor as yours but has all the same parts and all of these up draft carburetors work the same way.
Edited by Dick L - 05 Mar 2012 at 8:13pm
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Dick L
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Posted: 05 Mar 2012 at 8:46pm |
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Added some stuff above.
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 7:45am |
There are new after market carburetors available that have high speed adjustment screws on them. Norm Minert has them.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Warren(Oh)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 4:42am |
I've been looking at the new ones listed on ebay, Dusty, bit pricey but at today gas prices, if you run it much they would probably be worthwhile. Wonder if any dealers on the forum have them for less ?
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 8:01am |
The TSV carbs work just like all the other updraft carbs as Dick explained. It sounds to me like the float level may be a little on the high side if its spewing black smoke. Obviously, it's not on the idle side of the circuit, its off idle into the power circuit. The carb is overfueling the engine, and if your Grandfather was running the engine that way for long periods of time, its not helping the piston rings nor the cylinder walls any. Eventually, that engine is going to develop some serious oil control problems if you don't get that situation ironed out. All these updraft carburetors work great and are economical when they're set up correctly. Once you dial them in, these engines will usually purr like a kitten providing there are no other internal issues with them...
Steve@B&B
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 1:22pm |
 Warren(Oh) wrote:
I've been looking at the new ones listed on ebay, Dusty, bit pricey but at today gas prices, if you run it much they would probably be worthwhile. Wonder if any dealers on the forum have them for less ?
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Warren, check the adds, Norm does have an add on here, and I'll bet his price is less than the ones on e-bay. He is one of the original guys that got GOTO going. He's one of the main guys at the Florida Wheelers in the winter.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Warren(Oh)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 5:08pm |
I actually have the float set low, just a smidgeon, not level.
Is that Norm Minert ? I didn't see carbs on his website, have to give him a call sometime. Building a potato digger to go under the G now....
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:54pm |
Don't buy a new carb, It will not be as good as the original Marvel Schebler.
There shouldn't be any problem if its set up right. The new carbs are all white metal crap. Bob
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