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175 brakes

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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 175 brakes
    Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 2:52pm
I took the easy side off of my 175 that had grabby brakes....was astonished to find nothing out of the ordinary.  Springs all looked good, linings all good, no signs of oil contamination. I checked the critical dimension and it is 2.042, .002 from the max.  I  am thinking about adding some shims to get it closer to the minimum dimension. My thinking is that the ramps and balls might be worn enough to be wedging when allowed to expand that far?? Any comments or suggestions?
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captaindana View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 5:35pm
I've been there and done that Eldon. I agree with your thinking to shim it to lessen the spread.
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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 6:07pm
Eldon, I think that is the way to go. As long as they aren't rubbing when retracted you will be OK. The angle of ramp and ball is critical. If it wears it is like caming over center. HTH Tracy Martin
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 7:45pm
Well I hadn't taken the drum apart before I posted, decided I would take it apart and it is there I think I found the problem.  The last person to do the brake job had smeared anti-seize on everything, including the balls and and where they sit. It had globbed up around the balls...I'm pretty sure it was what was causing the brakes to lock up (wouldn't let the balls slide back in the pockets. Who'd a thunk it! I put that side back together (put in a thick shim and took out a thin), and it works nice and smooth. Tried the brakes on the right side and can't get them to lock up now...I suppose  I should go ahead and take it apart while I am at it and clean it up.  I wonder if they only lock up when it is warm out because the anti-seize gets stickier???
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NC Bruce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NC Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 8:53pm
Wow, Eldon!  I just finished removing the 'bad' hydraulic lever side and the easier L side, on my 175.  I haven't done this by myself before.  I may post some photos and see if you can help? OK? 
My R (hydraulic lever side) was locking up, and when removed I saw my springs had broken.  How did you actually measure it?  How much wear in the ball sockets is allowed?  How do you 'properly' remove the pin?
I'm thinking of replacing the seals, springs, linnings, ect. while I'm in there. Where's best place to get parts?  Did you ribet linnings yourself, pay someone, or buy 'em complete? 
But this is a tough, 1st time tractor brake job for an old man...by myself...ha!  ( the 3 ton chain winch is the real hero..ha!) 
Any suggestions /experiences ....anybody?
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 9:21pm
Bruce that was what I thought would be wrong with mine - broken springs. I measured mine per the I&T book....I had a 2" micrometer test rod (from my 1-3" micrometer), so I used that and feeler gauges reaching down in from the top hole. Someone said there was an easier way, but never explained how to get it. I suppose if you pushed the bands to one side you might be able to check the gap with feeler gauges before disassembly, and then mic the drum assembly.... 
I used a cherry picker to remove the final drive, wasn't much work to reinstall without brake drum and measure.
 
There is enough room next to the brake band to get a small vise grip on and try to twist the shaft. On another tractor I had to heat to get it to turn, then worked it out. Make sure the brake adjusting rod turns free cause now is a good time to make sure it won't twist off when adjusting the brakes. If you have to get that out, the cylinder mount has to come off and another pin behind it removed with a slide hammer or jack bolt.
 
I bought my springs and seals from Sandy Lake....I have NOS bands and pads that I will use on a couple of low use tractors, my main tractor will get professional linings from a company in Portland. I bought the aircraft riveter some guys were talking about on here a while back, hope it works on the drums....
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 9:28pm
Bruce I haven't had to rivet anything yet....the linings were fine in this tractor, just the anti-seize problem.....and I have a nice set of 170 and 185 brakes from 2 tractors I parted....but I still have  two 175's, 190 and a D17 SIV left to do.  I'm sure I will be pretty good at it by the time I'm done!
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