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Advice on Trailers

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Mike(RavNE) View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Ravenna NE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike(RavNE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Advice on Trailers
    Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:46am
I want to buy a small 4X8 trailer for hauling drywall and furniture and other items. 
 
Do I want a wood floor or metal floor? 
 
How high of side railings do I need? 
 
What is a good price for new and used? 
 
Any other stuff to watch out for? 
 
Any advice would be appreciated. 
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John (C-IL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John (C-IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:00am
Most of those trailers are pretty light. You would be limited to a 1000# load in most cases. That isn't much drywall. They are intended to haul a lawn mower,ATV or garden supplies. Around here they sell them at the farm supply places for $595.00 or less. They are cheaply built but are okay for their intended purpose. Watch Craig's list, see them occasionally for $300.  
 
Here is one that the local farm store offers. 2000# capacity, wood floor.
 


Edited by John (C-IL) - 22 Feb 2012 at 8:05am
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Bob-Maine View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob-Maine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:12am
Mike, You might want to check on your state's regulation on trailer brakes. The requirement for brakes varies and usually is tied to the maximum weight. I'm not suggesting that you should not have brakes on the trailer but, if you buy one that would require brakes, you want to know that up front.

Bob@allisdownest
I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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Butch(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:16am
I like the ones that have an angle iron rail a foot or so above the floor. Gives you a handy tie down rail and also a place to screw some plywood sides to and easy to tarp when moving household items, always rains when I do that? 
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:26am
If you don't need one right away and can wait till spring area, Lowes sells their 5x8s for around $450 for a new one.
Can't fix stupid
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WC Dale View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC Dale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:36am
Having moved kids in and out of college dorms and apartments for about 6 years straight, I would consider an enclosed trailer for furniture. Seems like I got rained or snowed on about 50% of the time and it is next to impossible to keep tarps on the back of a pickup at any decent speeds. I used a lot of shrink wrap. The enclosed may not be the best choice for your other needs though. They are also not cheap.
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TedBuiskerN.IL. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedBuiskerN.IL. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:23am
When you look at a trailer like this, grab a front corner and rock it up and down, If it flexs easily, RUN AWAY. The trailer will bounce like a basketball behind you.

Edited by TedBuiskerN.IL. - 22 Feb 2012 at 9:24am
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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DanWi View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 11:19am
One problem with the cheap metal trailers is if you use them in winter, road salt takes its toll on them very fast and you end up with a rusty pile of metal. Another  problem is if it is only 4 x 8 it is sometimes hard to get a little weight  on the hitch if you have an odd shaped load and you don't want those small trailers heavy to the back, I would at least get a 5 x 10 or 12 to give you a little space to load properly.

Edited by DanWi - 22 Feb 2012 at 11:25am
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Butch(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 11:27am
Originally posted by DanWi DanWi wrote:

One problem with the cheap metal trailers is if you use them in winter, road salt takes its toll on them very fast and you end up with a rusty pile of metal.


Yessir! and even the good ones that's why mine sit all winter, costs too much to use them on the salt.
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Claus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 11:34am
My only advice is don't go too small, you can haul small loads on big trailers but big loads don't work so good on small trailers.
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 11:45am
I have a 5X10 single axle Doolittle box trailer for my hot-air balloon.  It has double back doors and 36" side door.  Even with a roof vent I can back it in a standard 7 foot high garage.  It's also served double duty hauling other household items like furniture and appliances.  I've even stuffed some AC items in for hauling such as:
1. Oxnard scoop & SC carry-all
2. 80R3 sickle mower & 712H mower
3. Oxnard blade
4. Pair of 16.9X28 tires & rims for the D17

Mine has a 3500 lb axle and trailer weights about 1000 so it net carries about 2500.  I got along fine w/o brakes on it for 13 years but since I put a brake controller in the Expedition I plan to add brakes this year.

Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 6:23pm
Good advice on what has already been posted. Spend a little extra and get at least a 5x10 with a 3500 lb axle and 12" high rail. Wood floor works best for dry wall, etc. Expanded metal floor is usually lighter and works good for lawn equipment. An enclosed trailer is better for hauling furniture and moving tools to a job site. 
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 6:51pm
I make and sell at least 1 trailer a year( something to do, an acre ain't much to play on with 5 tractors and a combine...sigh).
 
First, be sure  drywall will FIT! Some '4by8' trailers are the OUTSIDE dimensions.Yup, NO truth in advertising...
 
Second, get 15" ST rated tires with a 3500# axle and electric brakes.Hauling a fully loaded trailer is easy, STOPPING is kinda important.
 
Third, used, abused, repurposed 'boat trailers' aren't worth they're weight in scrap.NOT designed for hauling... same holds true for 'tent trailers'.Those are GOOD for hauling tandem discs to the neighbour though..
 
4th Size does matter.Last year I built a 5 by 8(60 x 100" inside) ,20" tall sides, put 5 2by12s for the floor.yeah, gaps show up when dry,but overall it's hauled a LOT of other peoples stuff..
 
5th,If the tongue is an A-coupler you'll get 200 more pounds of legal carrying capacity out of it and a nice centered hole for the tongue jack( be sure it has a wheel !).
 
Price? All my trailers are made from structural steel,not whimpy folded sheet metal,3500# axle,15" St tires and I get $1200-$1500 for them.Profit is about $300.Everything costs more money these days(tire and rim is $200 per side !)
The current build is a 4 by 6.5 ( 8 ' when tailgate is down) and there's over $1000 in materials.like I said it's a hobby, not a money maker. PM me and I'll send you pictures and better description if you want so you can compare.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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RickUP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RickUP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 6:53pm
All this advice is my same thoughts. Just wanted to say, A 3500 lbs. axle is great, 6 ply tires is plus, most of all I believe no brakes required with single axle. Always double check laws.
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Brian S(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian S(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:01pm
yeah, what they all said and get the bigger tires, If you travel much you will see all sorts of trailers with tiny tires setting along the road with NO bearings where bearings are suppoesed to be. Also get greasable hubs or bearing buddies.
God made man.Sam colt made man equal.
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Dave in il View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:19pm
Trailers have one thing in common with boats, twofootitess. You always wish you had one two foot longer than the one you got. LOL
Just go with a 15' tandem with the angle iron rail around it and ramps.
AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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70Standard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70Standard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:30pm
Another shortcoming of the little trailers is the small diameter wheels.  Those small wheels will drop way down into every little hole you encounter, and your trailer will do a lot more hopping and dancing.  Take the advice others have offered above and get a single axle trailer with at least 15" tires.  I saw a decent used one with a metal deck at the local trailer dealer for $550 a while back.  I'm sure it could be taken home for less than $500.
Roof Palomino (SN 224), Chetech Pug UTV, Three Green Tractors and one Red Tractor.
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EricTn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EricTn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:21pm
I would not want one of those tilt trailers, with a single straight tonge hinged, that pivots up under the trailer. On the road in front of my house, some guy had one come un-glued, trailer was empty. Ended up thru the fence. Only about 400 yards from getting on a major highway, could have been tragic!
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Wendell(OK/TX) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wendell(OK/TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2012 at 1:43am
A 4x8 is just big enough to tick you off when you want to haul something plus you can't see it behind you most of the time.  I have a 5x10, 3500lb axle with 10 ply trailer tires(price was right), 12 inch high side rails and about a 4 ft tall drop gate/ramp on the back.  I bought this trailer "accidentally" and it has been the handiest thing to have around, tracks nicely behind a full size, you can see the gate and the edge of the fenders in the mirrors.  Have hauled parts of several tractors with it and lots of other stuff including gravel, furniture and lawn mowers.  Mine doesn't have brakes since it came out of Texas where the limit is 4500lb.  If Oklahoma ever starts enforcing trailer code, I will have to put brakes on it since their limit is 3000lb, so like said above, check local laws.  I converted mine to LED lighting and added front corner marker lights also, well worth the money.  Another thing, make sure the jack is either a folding style or is set back far enough to clear the tailgate when you lower it.  Pain to put or get stuff out of the bed when the jack won't let you lower the tailgate.  Good luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2012 at 2:38am
As with Jay I have built many trailers over the years and if you are going to get one of those $500 or less trailers you can consider it a temporary trailer because it won't last. pretty easy to have $800-$1000 in material into a well built single axle trailer. I still have the first trailer I built over 25 years ago and it's as solid as ever. I also only use structural steel on them and full size tires.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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