No Spark WD

Tried to start !2 volt WD after sitting for about a year. No spark to distributor from coil. Replaced coil. Juice from battery to ampmeter, juice from ampmeter to resister, juice through resister, juice to positive terminal on coil. Juice out negative terminal on coil. Juice to distributor, when cranking engine points open, when points are pulled apart I can see a spark between points. Still no spark between distributor and coil, no spark to the plugs. Could it be condenser? Any sugestions?

Try changing the points and condensor.

Wil

"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs

Joe, I had/have the same problem with my CA, no spark till I release the starter switch. Most on here thought it was a bad battery and I checked the battery and all 3 cells are bad, even thought it turns the engine over very well. (It`s going on 5 years old) I have not gotten a new battery cause I will not be using the tractor till next spring and figured I`d wait till next spring. I do have the 6 volt electronic ignition in it so that ruled out points and condensor. I too am electrically challenged.

God bless our troops and the United States of America.

Pick your rut well, you may be in it a long time.

Here is what I heard as a Young kid. Allthe juice is going to the starting motor and no juice to points to fire it off. when you are not cranking on starter you gotum spark at points correct? I know it sounds strange but that is whats happening. I hope Steve gets on this post He has forgotten more than I willever know!! Don in Northern Indiana

On Joe's tractor that lights off the instant the starter is released, I'd say there is a strong chance he has a bad cell in a 12V battery/ignition system with a 6V starter. The voltage while cranking is probably dropping below 9V which is usually the lower limit of a 12V ignition system to be able to deliver a spark. Because the voltage is still above 6V, the starter still cranks the engine well. Pull the battery and have it tested.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Has anyone here tried converting to electronic ignition? Started looking for points and condensor and ran across conversions which fit inside old distributor.

Sorry to take Gary's post over but seems our problems were similar. I am with you on Steve. I called him because I may convert this 12 V + grd to _ and will buy the system from him. But before I do I wanted to see how much I got to spend on this tractor. It was cranking when I bought it and only when I released the key, I thought that was odd. I think the new points, condenser and coil gave it enough spark to crank better so next I am going for the battery.

Sorry guys. Gettin' on here kinda late. Gary in SE KS- by-pass the resistor and see if it lites off. I keep preachin' to folks to stay away from them $%#* resistors because they're nottin' but trouble. A lot of good information here from the guys. Yes, a bad cell in the battery could cause a problem like that, (especially with a 6V system) but if its a 12V system, and its above 9-9.3V, there should be enough power to at least get the engine to backfire or lite up stubbornly. There isn't a lot of other power robbing accessories on a WD to steal power from to cause that problem like an automobile, with 12V's, but it sure could happen. Can't rule that out. Another thing you can try Gary is give the points a spritz of tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. The points from sitting that long are probably full of moisture and what spark it may be producing is grounding out to the breaker plate. Either that, or renew the points n' condenser. If the machine was being used with no problems before it was parked, its probably mother nature playing her tricks again on the ignition system.
For those who have E.I.'s in their distributor's like Weiner43 has, the system if its the OEM 6V pos. grd, the electronic module needs 4V or more to ignite, so if the Battery is low, it will not fire. Some folks are experiencing their tractors lite off when they let go of the starter rod with an E.I. This is the same principal with the 6V system. The starter is taking quite a bit of the Batteries power to crank the engine making a voltage drop to the E.I. module. When you let go of the starter rod, all of a sudden the engine comes to life. For that split second, the E.I. recieved 4 or more volts to ignite, and the engine started. With the 6V pos. grd systems, this is a normal event. As long as the 6V Battery is in good shape, the Tractor will start...
Steve@B&B

Hey Steve, just curious on what you think about the wider plug gaps with E.I and Flamethrower coil. It didn't seem like the engines make any more power, but they sure do start easier and idle smoother.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

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GaryinSEKan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote GaryinSEKan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: No Spark WD Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 9:12am
	Tried to start !2 volt WD after sitting for about a year. No spark to distributor from coil. Replaced coil. Juice from battery to ampmeter, juice from ampmeter to resister, juice through resister, juice to positive terminal on coil. Juice out negative terminal on coil. Juice to distributor, when cranking engine points open, when points are pulled apart I can see a spark between points. Still no spark between distributor and coil, no spark to the plugs. Could it be condenser? Any sugestions?

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Joe/NC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Smithfield, NC Points: 265	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe/NC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 9:30am
	Gary, I haad the same problem witha D10. I am electricla challenged. Also, I need to get a voltage /apm tester to test things better. I talked to Steve at B& B. He suggested a switch. I got a new one and didn't help. So I went got a new points and condensor and it starts. Only quirk is it dont fire until I release the switch. I may be low on power out of my battery. It spins the motor fast but don't start firing until I release the key. Hope some of this helps.

Wil M (NEIA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NEIA Points: 478	Post Options Post Reply Quote Wil M (NEIA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 9:40am
	Try changing the points and condensor. Wil
	"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs

norm [ind] Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: BOURBON,IN. Points: 667	Post Options Post Reply Quote norm [ind] Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 10:33am
	wrong switch????chec k current

weiner43 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Lake City, Mi. Points: 369	Post Options Post Reply Quote weiner43 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 11:50am
	Joe, I had/have the same problem with my CA, no spark till I release the starter switch. Most on here thought it was a bad battery and I checked the battery and all 3 cells are bad, even thought it turns the engine over very well. (It`s going on 5 years old) I have not gotten a new battery cause I will not be using the tractor till next spring and figured I`d wait till next spring. I do have the 6 volt electronic ignition in it so that ruled out points and condensor. I too am electrically challenged.
	God bless our troops and the United States of America. Pick your rut well, you may be in it a long time.

TedBuiskerN.IL. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Davis, IL. Points: 1959	Post Options Post Reply Quote TedBuiskerN.IL. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 11:57am
	DC electric AAARGH. Like trailer lights--if they work--it's magic, if they don't work--it's normal.
	Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.

Don Smith Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Indiana Points: 132	Post Options Post Reply Quote Don Smith Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 12:11pm
	Here is what I heard as a Young kid. Allthe juice is going to the starting motor and no juice to points to fire it off. when you are not cranking on starter you gotum spark at points correct? I know it sounds strange but that is whats happening. I hope Steve gets on this post He has forgotten more than I willever know!! Don in Northern Indiana

Coke-in-MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41722	Post Options Post Reply Quote Coke-in-MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 12:18pm
	Start down the prosess of elimination like you did, if you have spark at points, it means the coil is not open. There should be spark from wire from coil tower to ground. if not secondary is open, or wire is bad. If you have spark there then it should go to cap unless cap is bad or carbon brush in cap is bad,(this happens often) or you could have carbon trail in cap or crack that is conductive (also check coil tower) The rotor ca nalso have carbon trail to ground to distrugitor shaft, check that. Then take plug wires and check ohm readings on them. To check system you can use a separate battery also to power distributor or jumper from present battery .
	Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 3:51pm
	On Joe's tractor that lights off the instant the starter is released, I'd say there is a strong chance he has a bad cell in a 12V battery/ignition system with a 6V starter. The voltage while cranking is probably dropping below 9V which is usually the lower limit of a 12V ignition system to be able to deliver a spark. Because the voltage is still above 6V, the starter still cranks the engine well. Pull the battery and have it tested.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

bruce Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: jacobson mn. Points: 45	Post Options Post Reply Quote bruce Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 4:09pm
	went to start my d17 the other day , would fire but wouldn't run. I changed points, condenser, & plugs. still did the same thing. I found out it had one of these battery clamps (ground cable) that clamp onto the cable. I removed the clamp, cleaned every thing up , put back together, and it fired right up. tried it again today and it fired right up again.
	UC WC'S W PATROL B'S C'S IB CA'S WD'S WD45'S WD45D M CRAWLER G B-10 B110 B112 HBII2 HB212 712H 712S 314 GOLF CART TERRA TIGER

GaryinSEKan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote GaryinSEKan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 7:10pm
	Has anyone here tried converting to electronic ignition? Started looking for points and condensor and ran across conversions which fit inside old distributor.

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 7:14pm
	I have the pertronix electronic ignition conversions in my CA and Oliver 60. I also used their matching flamethrower coils and opened the spark plug gaps to .045. Made a HUGE difference in ease of starting and smooth idling.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Joe/NC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Smithfield, NC Points: 265	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe/NC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 7:14pm
	Sorry to take Gary's post over but seems our problems were similar. I am with you on Steve. I called him because I may convert this 12 V + grd to _ and will buy the system from him. But before I do I wanted to see how much I got to spend on this tractor. It was cranking when I bought it and only when I released the key, I thought that was odd. I think the new points, condenser and coil gave it enough spark to crank better so next I am going for the battery.

Joe/NC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Smithfield, NC Points: 265	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe/NC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2009 at 7:24pm
	Check the insulator block on the distributor. If that is cracked that kills the fire.

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11883	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2009 at 9:37am
	Sorry guys. Gettin' on here kinda late. Gary in SE KS- by-pass the resistor and see if it lites off. I keep preachin' to folks to stay away from them $%#* resistors because they're nottin' but trouble. A lot of good information here from the guys. Yes, a bad cell in the battery could cause a problem like that, (especially with a 6V system) but if its a 12V system, and its above 9-9.3V, there should be enough power to at least get the engine to backfire or lite up stubbornly. There isn't a lot of other power robbing accessories on a WD to steal power from to cause that problem like an automobile, with 12V's, but it sure could happen. Can't rule that out. Another thing you can try Gary is give the points a spritz of tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. The points from sitting that long are probably full of moisture and what spark it may be producing is grounding out to the breaker plate. Either that, or renew the points n' condenser. If the machine was being used with no problems before it was parked, its probably mother nature playing her tricks again on the ignition system. For those who have E.I.'s in their distributor's like Weiner43 has, the system if its the OEM 6V pos. grd, the electronic module needs 4V or more to ignite, so if the Battery is low, it will not fire. Some folks are experiencing their tractors lite off when they let go of the starter rod with an E.I. This is the same principal with the 6V system. The starter is taking quite a bit of the Batteries power to crank the engine making a voltage drop to the E.I. module. When you let go of the starter rod, all of a sudden the engine comes to life. For that split second, the E.I. recieved 4 or more volts to ignite, and the engine started. With the 6V pos. grd systems, this is a normal event. As long as the 6V Battery is in good shape, the Tractor will start... Steve@B&B

NickT(Ky) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elizabethtown, Points: 417	Post Options Post Reply Quote NickT(Ky) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2009 at 11:42am
	Gary, I have the E.I. from BRILLMAN CO. on my old tractors. They had the best price at the time and were very good to deal with. I have the 6 v starters with the 12 v 1 wire alt, 12 v coil and I had to replace my first 12 v battery the other day that was 8 yrs old.

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2009 at 12:04pm
	Hey Steve, just curious on what you think about the wider plug gaps with E.I and Flamethrower coil. It didn't seem like the engines make any more power, but they sure do start easier and idle smoother.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11883	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2009 at 10:26pm
	Hey Bri! Pertronix says the unit is designed for the stock plug gap, but if it works better with a wider gap, run with it! They don't make any more HP, but every plug gets the same amount of current which equates to faster starts and a cleaner burn in the combustion chamber. Their 40K Flamethrower coil is pretty powerful, and works quite well when used with the Ignitor E.I. I use em' myself on my Tractors. I have one on my 716H I just restored with E.I. Haven't fired the new engine yet, but we're gettin' close! We stock the 40K coils in Black or Chrome. Also carry all the AC E.I.'s in stock. 6V PG, 12V PG & 12V NG Steve@B&B