Hi all,
I finally have some time for some belated updates, this has been a busy week!
When I was home for the Thanksgiving holiday, I got to spend some quality time working on Wayne with my Dad and brother. Got some things accomplished, and found more problems...
I got the engine oil changed first, and a new oil filter. But that begins the questions. According to the manual, the engine takes 6 quarts of oil. So I added 6 quarts. started it up, waited for the oil filter to get saturated and build some pressure on the gauge again. Then checked the dipstick. Not even to the low level mark, hummm? Added some more oil, thinking it must just need a little bit more. Ended up adding a full quart more and still just barely to the low level mark on the dipstick? What is up wih this? As far as I can tell, its not leaking out anywhere, and dosn't burn oil I don't think (don't smoke). Is it common to have to add more than what the manual states of 6 quarts? Is it possible the dipstick was changed? Anyone have a measurment of how long there WD dipstick is (to full and low mark range lines) to check mine? And I noticed that when I put the dipstick back in the engine while the engine was running, it felt like it hit something moving inside the engine. Is something wrong? What could it be hitting? I'm not really framiliar with the internals of this size engine yet.
Then we moved on to the shifting tower. As you may remember, when I got the tractor, I could not shift into 3rd gear. Everything else worked fine. So I took the shifting tower off and brought it to town and inspected it. Everything looked good, no rust, crust, or worn parts. With the exeption of the little sheet metal splash shield, which was no longer spot welded together where it once was.
So we clamped it back where it should be, and welded it back together. cleaned it all up and made a new gasket, took it back to the woods, and put it back on the tractor. Shifted like a dream!
That little splash guard piece was just gamming things up inside because it wasn't being held in the right spot. Once it was in the right spot, vala! No more problem!
Then we took the battery box tray off, and removed the top cover to look in the hand clutch to see what that looked like, and to see if we could figgure out why the hand clutch dosn't work quite right.
Again, everything looked pretty good, and clean (for an old tractor) not rusty, or crusty. Found the shims on the clutch to adjust it. Dosn't look like any have been taken out ever. There are a couple of "thick" ones and a "shim pack" of "little ones". We opted to not tackle this at this time though (short on time), but know what to expect when we have more time.
But the big question I think I know the answer to, and don't want to hear the answer to....
While checking out the wet clutch, and engauging, and disengauging to see how everything worked inside (with engine off) we noticed the bearing going forward to the engine end of the tractor moves front to back in the casting when you engauge and disengauge the wet clutch (the whole bearing). I assume it should NOT do this. What does this mean? I really don't want to hear that the whole shebang will have to be taken apart to fix this. Is it going to hurt anything to run it this way?
Could this be what is making the noise when the wet clutch is disengauged and the handle is all the way forward, you can hear a drag or strain on something?
Then we drained the hydrolic oil. Put new in. Once the system got all the "burps" out of itself, it worked good (pump still needs to be adjusted to "hold" better) I just need more time to do these things, LOL!
Then drained the wet clutch, tranny, differential oil. Put new in. That took the right amount of oil. Why can't the engine be more like this, ha ha! Did find a few flat metal shavings of various sizes in the differential compartment oil though.... Like pieces of thin sheetmetal sometings-or-others. The biggest about the size of your pinkey finger nail. Not thick chunks like gear teeth or anything, just thin stuff. What could these be from? Anything to be REALLY concerned about?
Then took the hood off, and tried to take the radiator grill off, but didn't finish that. I asssume you have to loosen the bottom bolts of the radiator to get the sheet metal grill out? This must be what is still holding it in place. Ran out of time.
Then we discovered some more problems. Once the hood was off, and we could see more of the radiator, we found that it needs some SERIOUS help. The overflow tube is broken off at the neck. The metal shroud around the fan is basically just dangling there, flopping around. One of the top hood bolts was too long and was rubbing the top of the radiator and basically wore a hole right threw it. And it is in general crusty, and needs to be cleaned up and patched.
But the good news is that once I take the radiator off, then I can put the right size fan belt on and get the generator working right again!
Then we looked at the manifold closer since the hood was off. It really needs help too, which we knew, but now know more! Two of the ports where the exaust goes to the block are missing there gaskets. So I'm going to have to take the whole manifold off and replace the gaskets, and while off, fix the hole where the square plate should bolt on where the muffler should bolt to. The plate is missing (a piece of junk is currently bolted there with one bolt) and that is because three of the four bolts are briken off in the manifold. I'll have to get them out.
Who has the manifold gaskets and gasket for the muffler square plate when that time comes?
I think that about wraps up the progress on Wayne for that weekend.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice, I know I asked a lot of questions today!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 05 Dec 2009 at 11:17am
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