hd11 question

hi I was looking for a hd11 im not sure the series my dad had one with the master clutch and the steering clutch leavers were on the dash I know it wasent turbo  or powershift. does anyone know what series this is.

The second series of HD11Bs fit Michaels description. Steering clutches were dry (no power steer) like early 11B, but levers mounted on the dash just like power steer 11E. All power steer 11s were turbocharged, so it would not have been an 11E. Master clutch was multi plate oil cooled like 11E. Tracks were 40 link like 11E, but truck wheels were smaller, same as early 11B, just one more each side for the extra track links. Engine was AC 10000 naturaly aspirated giving a few more horses than the Buda did. In short, the model was the bigger version of the HD6B with optional oil master clutch and longer track. I also would like to get my hands on one of these nuggets.  Mac

michale34 wrote: i see 2 on machinerytrader.com that look like it. there  steep in price  the one  that looks like it the most says had11f

sorry hd11f

Tad, my reply was all power steer 11s were turbo`d, but later B models had oil master clutch & 10000 (non turbo) engine. A basic summary;  First tractors had Buda & all clutches dry. Next series (11B revamped) had AC 10000 engine, oil master clutch, longer (40 link) track option, dry steering clutches with steering levers on dash like power steer tractors ( Confusion here as many think these are power steer tractors) Then with the introduction of hydraulic steering (11E) & powershift (11EP) the 11000 turbocharged engine went in all tractors except the 11B which I have described in these two posts. In 1971 came the series B tractors (revamped E & EP models). Throughout these progressive series of 11`s,  F, S, & EC models were available. F & S models did not come to New Zealand so I dont know much about em. I will look up my parts and service books and come back with the serial numbers at the changes.  Mac

Tad, just to clarify things, when I refer to power steering, I mean Hydraulic actuation with cluthes emersed in oil, not boosted dry clutches. I may have misinterpreted your meaning of power steer. Many do think though, that those levers on the dash of a dry steer tractor mean its hydraulic steer coz the levers are  the same.   Mac

I am beginning to see the light, but I am still confused as to just exactly what series mine is. It was originally painted AC Industrial yellow under about 13 coats of paint, I could not tell if the hardnose was original or not and it had the hydraulic tank mounted on the right hand deck in front of the battery box making right hand side access impossible. The power steering I  made reference to, is the dash mounted levers operating a valve and slave unit that sits over the ring and pinion and uses the same bolts as the cover and uses the same splined release bearing shaft on dry clutches and brakes, as a point of interest, I have located one of these units and plan on installing it my 11 sans dash mounted levers, I never liked those much, I will probably us the original lever position with shorter, narrower, closer together levers like the IH TD15 had.  One of the fellows I used to do a lot of work for had an late model 11(probably late 70's) and I don't remember if it was a "D" or "E" but it was a square tractor much like the AG, they had put a farmer blade on it that wasn't very good but it would move dirt ,I really did like the tractor, they used it most for ag. While on the subject of dry steering clutches, mine make a great deal of noise, (I call it squanking) especially on an uphill turn with a load, even idled down, I try to feather them in and out and the clutch will try to grab and make noise worse that any other tractor I have ever driven. (you guys that run flat ground probably don't know what I am talking about) I wonder about what it would take to make it a wet clutch and brake other than different brake linning and sealing up the brake actuator hole?? I know there are 2 tapered disks in each clutch that have to be timed, I am sure they were thought up to try and help the clutch feather in and out but just doesn't work. Tad

Been thinkin more on your idea Tad. Just oil emerse your steer clutch/brake assemblies without hydraulic clutch actuation to give you all the wet clutch benefits of smoother clutching, longer clutch and brake life and WAY FEWER BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS without the problems and costs associated with pumps, valves, actuators, and plumbing for hydro steer. Need double sided seals for clutch and bevel gear compartments. I like the idea.  Mac

If one was going to go through the work of putting hyd assisted steering clutches to use I would wonder why to even use the levers and not just go to all foot control like later machines , seems if a linkage is operating a valve it would be easire to use brake linkage to activate the valves . this leaves both hands free .

Just to add abit more here. The bronze plates in wet and dry clutchs are totally different, as with the brake lining material. Steel plates are the same is most wet and dry clutchs, but sometimes manufacturers add a dished seperator plate to stop oil drag. Also the clutch springs are almost always different and stronger in the wet clutch. Always pays to cross check part nos from wet and dry clutchs to check what changes. tad you could put the heavier springs in your dry clutchs, but would probably have to add the hydraulic boosted clutch actuatation system HD11s had from 6038 up to 9999.