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gleaner electric gadges?

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Allis Fields View Drop Down
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Reedsburg,Wisc.
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    Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 1:14pm
Ho does the gleaner E gauges work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 1:26pm
Ammeter or voltmeter (don't remember which it has, my EIII has an ammeter) works just like a tractor.  The coolant temp and oil pressure have electric sending units on the engine and a single wire ran up to the gauges which is unlike Allis tractors of the same era that had either a direct oil line for pressure or a braided wire mechanical connection for temp.  Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Allis Fields View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Fields Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 2:51pm
I have a e motor. and access to a e III parts rig. I haven't looked to see what gadges are left but If I want to use the electric ones how do I hook them up. My motor still has the sending units on it for water and oil.

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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 3:41pm
I'm not clear on what you are trying to do.  Are you trying to get the gauges to work on a Gleaner E combine or on a Gleaner E engine that was put in a tractor?  I might be able to scan pages from the combine manuals with wiring diagrams if that's what you need.  Not sure I have an E wiring diagram but do have for an EIII.  Will have to look when I get home.  Mike

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Allis Fields View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Fields Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 5:09pm
I'm puting a E motor into a wd45 puller and may run a diesel gadge pod. Thaught it maybe less mess with oil/andtemp prob lines to have a E's electric gauges.
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 5:40pm
I'll check my wiring diagram tonight but essentially I think the sending units act like a variable resistor and the gauge acts like an ohm meter.   My guess without looking is that you connect a 12 volt source to one side of the gauge, then run a wire from the other side of the gauge to the sending unit which is essentially the ground side.   You'd want your 12 volt source behind a key/power switch so it's off when the tractor is.  Will post more after I look it up.  Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 5:48pm

I put an EIII engine in my WD and at the time I got the engine I also got the oil and temp gauges. I attached a homemade dash to the top of my WD battery box lid with a hole through to the battery compartment. The wiring is easy, hot wire from cold side of ignition switch to post on gauge, other gauge post to sending unit, same for either gauge. I think it looks great and much easier to read. I have the wrong battery box on this tractor, it is taller and blocks the traction booster gauge but it was not servicable anyway. That is the only drawback I have seen. I know it's not factory but maybe it should have been. (it sure didn't look that dirty when I took the picture)

Leon B MO    
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2009 at 10:49pm
Leon - looks like guessed right, lol.  Don't have to look it up now.  Mike

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Parallelizability sclerenchyma guv stringed gamut tubule enevelope orcein lawyering. Expiring cataphoresis, thereon apodal typhlitis precontact selenious supplicate haustellate.

1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2009 at 6:28am
If you purchase a set of aftermarket gauges, usually the sending units for those particular gauges come with the gauge or guage set. A simple set of gauges are very easy to wire. Leon's set-up there is simple, nice, and effective. Gauges are available either electric or mechanical. Don't mix OEM gauges with aftermarket sending units. Most OEM gauges work with their own ohmed sender. The mechanical guages when dealing with oil pressure or water temp have conduit style tubing which is more cumbersome to install. The electric gauges are much easier and just as accurate with one wire to the  sender, and the gauge self grounded and a key accuated 12V source. (off the Ign. or Acc post of the Ign. sw) will power up the gauges. Most gauges come with a light, so you can tie your lighting circuitry together and connect it to the headlight switch. Don't forget your fuses! We have tons of gauges in stock, and offer simple wiring systems for them, but you can just stroll down to the local Auto Parts store and buy a generic set of gauges like Stewart Warner, or Sun Pro. They work great.... HTH
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