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Front Loader / Hydraulics

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ram3500v8 View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 May 2011
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    Posted: 04 May 2011 at 5:34pm

I have an Allis Chalmers WD-45, I recently purchased an old wd-9 front loader for it.  The hydraulic cylinders have about a 32" stroke, only have one port on the bottom, so they go down with gravity, and the rods are pretty pitted so i will probably have to get some new ones.  The bucket just drops when you pull a cable, but i have a small piston that works that i will probably attach so as to be able to tilt the bucket.

If you look at these pictures you can see the setup on the tractor now.  It is just the factory setup I guess.  I am wondering if those four (in light blue) ports or the round one up above are running all the time or only supply fluid when the implement is be raised or lowered.  

 http://imageshack.us/f/638/tractorhydraulics.jpg/   

http://imageshack.us/f/819/p1060489l.jpg/

Once i get a source for a steady hydraulic power, i will need a recommendations on a valve control for the pistons.  I will probably need one that will control the tandem lifting pistons, and a second control for the tilt piston if i decide to attach that.  I don't know yet if i am going to get new main pistons, and if i do i don't know if they will be one direction (with the one port on the bottom) or if the new ones will or should have to ports to go up and down quickly.

Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and if you want any more pictures of the pistons or stuff let me know.

Thanks in advance     


  

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allis restorer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis restorer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2011 at 5:43pm
Go orange or Go home!!
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Dakota Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2011 at 8:30pm
The 4 plugs under the Hold Delay valve are plugs for the piston checkvalves. if you take any of them out you won't have any hydraulic pressure.  If you take pressure from the aux port the hyd lever must be full up to get pressure. If you really want a full hyd loader a crank driven pump is the best way. Try cleaning up the rams you have now they are a displacment type ram and can tolerate quite a bit of imperfections before they leak much.
You can hook your existing rams "T" together and plug into your rear outlet.

Edited by Dakota Dave - 04 May 2011 at 9:21pm
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ram3500v8 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ram3500v8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 9:49pm
So when i connect the rams as you have suggested, I would just use the lever near the steering wheel.  Once the implement rams go up then the loader rams will go up?   
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Pat the Plumber CIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat the Plumber CIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 9:57pm
Yes when you raise the loader the lift arms will raise also.I have a lever valve plumbed into loader supply so I can close valve with loader up so I can disconnect and use other implements while loader is on the tractor.If you want bucket to tilt you are going to have to be creative.Plenty of guys have engineered hyd pumps and such on these to be able to have multiple outlets and true two way hyd.Lots of work.
You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails

1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF.
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ram3500v8 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ram3500v8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2011 at 8:47pm
Ok thanks for the advice. 
I had some hydraulic fittings lying around that i used to connect one of the rams to test it and the seals were pretty bad.  The ones in there consisted of a metal ring, leather washers, then some wadding that looked like bail twine.  Would a rubber o-ring with wadding/packing behind it be sufficient to seal these? or maybe something more like a bearing seal? 
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