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Brampton 02 gt 
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Location: Erin,ON, Canada
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 Topic: Engine Removal WD45
Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 8:31pm |
We just found and brought home our 1955 wd45 which we sold in the 70's. It was nice to see it come home. The engine won't turn over. We are going to take the engine out to be rebuilt. We bought a service manual from AGCO and ordered a engine rebuild movie (won't be here for a few weeks - I bet my wide will really wnat to watch it too. ha ha) Does anyone have any tips removing the engine? The manual says to lift the engine out by the rocker arm support studs? Where/waht are these exactly?
thanks
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Brampton 02 gt
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Location: Erin,ON, Canada
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 8:39pm |
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den/southern illinoi
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 8:58pm |
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That would be the bolts that stick up through the valve cover. Den
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Own 4 wheel 20, 2-5015, 5020 and associated equipment and 2 electric forklifts.
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 8:59pm |
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So I don't need to take of the valve cover - I can just thread on some nuts?
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den/southern illinoi
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 9:27pm |
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I usually take off the nuts on each end of the cover, install a chain and reinstall the nuts. I also have a piece of angle iron long enough to reach from end to end with 4 matching holes to the valve cover. Remove all 4 nuts, install angle iron and reinstall nuts. It has a lifting clevis installed in the middle on top for lifting. Den
Den
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Own 4 wheel 20, 2-5015, 5020 and associated equipment and 2 electric forklifts.
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Rfdeere
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:00pm |
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I'm think'in you gonna need a new manifold ! LoL.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:05pm |
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Are you planning on rebuilding the entire engine, and restoring her? If it were me, I would yank the head off of it first and see how "stuck" it is. If you can get it freed up, and running, then you can drive the tractor around and diagnose what else is wrong and needs to be fixed. You might find lots of fun things like leaky water pumps, and who knows what else. Then you can always pull the engine out and rebuild it. Just an idea. If it's really stuck, you can always pull the engine with the head off by using a chain and a couple of the head bolts to hook a cherry picker onto. Looks like you might need a new manifold though!! LOL
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:13pm |
yeah i think it was even being run with the manifold shot. ha ha. I think we are going to be in this for the long haul since it was my grandpa's tractor and was purchased in the Town we live in.
I also want to do the clutch now too.
appreciate any advice or tips, as I am sure we are going to be frustrated along the way at times.
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:58pm |
I was looking for a picture of when I pulled my engine last year out of my WD45 of course it can't be found. I would recommend removing the valve cover and I installed a piece of angle Iron and locked it between 2 nuts on each of the stems for the valve cover. Then I connected the engine hoist to the engine. Check when you pull the engine for shims under the front motor mount. Remove the radiator and pull the steering shaft down to the universal joint. You will be able to walk the engine out that way over the front of the tractor, and putting it back is really easy. Don’t forget to put new hoses and fan belt on at the same time. Any other questions just P.M. me.
Danny
Edited by dannyraddatz - 16 Apr 2011 at 10:59pm
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Danny Raddatz
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 11:06pm |
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Don't forget to take off that sheet metal cover underneath and in front of the torque tube...first one I did I couldn't figure out why the engine wasn't sliding forward....
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KevinON
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 6:41am |
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Congratulations on finding your old tractor.
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Jack(Ky)
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 6:48am |
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I think the first thing I would do correct the word "wide" in your post before your wife sees it and you have to sleep in the shop with the tractor.LOL JP
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David Maddux
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 7:10am |
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If you decide to try and unstuck it in the tractor, make sure you pull the oil pan and take the pistons out. Clean up around the rings. If you have ever seen one tore down that has been stuck, you wouldn't want it to run with all of the rust and crud that is around those pistons. It will soon ruin what motor you would have had.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 8:51pm |
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Ah, you guys are such a bunch of softies... that manifold's fine... it'll leak a little, but hey- they never ran mufflers in the really old ones. At most, I'd stuff a piece of steel wool in the openings there, so 'ya didn't set the hayfield on fire, but other'n that, it'll be fine...
(yes, I'm kidding)
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ashbrook
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 12:45am |
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it alway nice when one of the tractors that your family had and sold makes it back. my uncle just got my grandpa's old 45 back from the people they sold it to in the late 70's early 80's. it needs a little paint, but other than that it wasn't used much by them and runs fine. he was trying to get it back for years from them and then finely said that they were ready to sell it. he's still working on getting one or two others from them....lol. one is my grandpa's old wc he pulled and farmed with in the early 50's when he was a kid.
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:25pm |
 Eldon (WA) wrote:
Don't forget to take off that sheet metal cover underneath and in front of the torque tube...first one I did I couldn't figure out why the engine wasn't sliding forward.... |
Underneath? and torque tube - where would I find the sheet metal?
thanks
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:27pm |
dannyraddatz wrote:
I was looking for a picture of when I pulled my engine last year out of my WD45 of course it can't be found. I would recommend removing the valve cover and I installed a piece of angle Iron and locked it between 2 nuts on each of the stems for the valve cover. Then I connected the engine hoist to the engine. Check when you pull the engine for shims under the front motor mount. Remove the radiator and pull the steering shaft down to the universal joint. You will be able to walk the engine out that way over the front of the tractor, and putting it back is really easy. Don’t forget to put new hoses and fan belt on at the same time. Any other questions just P.M. me.
Danny |
Is the universal joint mid engine along the frame rail? Pull the steering shaft down? slide it forward or just let it drop and hang?
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:28pm |
Jack(Ky) wrote:
I think the first thing I would do correct the word "wide" in your post before your wife sees it and you have to sleep in the shop with the tractor.LOL JP |
ha ha true. However she is pregnant and getting wider every day!
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:30pm |
We are just about ready to take out the engine. Could I use the head bolts? to the left of the valve cover?
thanks for everyones help and suggestions.
the oil looked good and the rad fluid looked new - wasn't mily or frothy. I hope these are good signs.
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:54pm |
Brampton 02 gt wrote:
Eldon (WA) wrote:
Don't forget to take off that sheet metal cover underneath and in front of the torque tube...first one I did I couldn't figure out why the engine wasn't sliding forward.... |
Underneath? and torque tube - where would I find the sheet metal?
thanks |
It is a half moon shaped piece that covers the flywheel on the bottom side, held on by two small bolts. Crawl under there, you will see it.
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 8:11pm |
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You will pull the steering wheel and the shaft out of the way up through the throttle quadrant. The universal joint has a tapered pin in it, goes in one way come back out the same way. Good luck on the job.
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Danny Raddatz
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 8:31pm |
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I have gotten the engine out without removing the steering shaft. Kind of tight and you have to work it a little bit, but it will come out. Sometimes trying to get that pin out of the U joint can be a pain.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Brampton 02 gt
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Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 9:21pm |
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^^^^^ thnaks for all the tips
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 9:27pm |
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As some very good members had told me, it was so easy to put that motor out I should have fixed my clutch the year before. I won't even batt an eye next time, you may want a friend or two around for pulling and reinstalling the engine.
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Danny Raddatz
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Rick
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Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 5:52am |
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There might actually be (4) small bolts holding the flywheel cover on,instead of two,so double check that. Also,I can help with the complete clutch setup,if you decide you want to do that...throwout bearing & collar,pilot bearing,clutch and pressure plate. Rick
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 8:26pm |
I would tell you I am very happy with the work Rick did for me on my clutch and flywheel for my WD45.
Danny
Thanks again Rick.
P.S. Rick is right about tke 4 bolts on the inspection cover.
Edited by dannyraddatz - 20 Apr 2011 at 8:27pm
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Danny Raddatz
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Steve M C/IL
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Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 2:02pm |
Why doesn't anyone ever mention the hand crank rod when pulling engine?Remove cotter so spring can slide,unbolt guide bracket and pull shaft full fwd and clamp with vise grip.Lot less aggravating.
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Denis in MI
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Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 2:19pm |
Steve M C/IL wrote:
Why doesn't anyone ever mention the hand crank rod when pulling engine?Remove cotter so spring can slide,unbolt guide bracket and pull shaft full fwd and clamp with vise grip.Lot less aggravating. |
Yes it is way easier to slide it ahead and hold it with vise-grips than it is to try taking it apart and have to put it back together.
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 5:19pm |
[QUOTE=Brampton 02 gt]
We just found and brought home our 1955 wd45 which we sold in the 70's. It was nice to see it come home. The engine won't turn over. We are going to take the engine out to be rebuilt. We bought a service manual from AGCO and ordered a engine rebuild movie (won't be here for a few weeks - I bet my wide will really wnat to watch it too. ha ha) Does anyone have any tips removing the engine? The manual says to lift the engine out by the rocker arm support studs? Where/waht are these exactly?
thanks
He had ordered a movie, so most of us just added thoughts to get him ready for movie night with the wide or wife. let us know how your work is going on your WD45.
Danny
P.S. were are all only a posting away!
Edited by dannyraddatz - 22 Apr 2011 at 5:21am
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Danny Raddatz
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 9:38pm |
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If you lift from the rocker arm cover bolts like the manual says the engine actually hangs strait up and down like you want. If your going to use the head bolts on the side of the rockeramr cover the engine will hang crooked off balance and you will have to fight with it.
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