Reversed WD45 Engine Problems

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   I have a Allis Chalmers WD45 that has been reversed, I was moving some dirt and I then parked it, I went out about a half hour later and it wouldn't start?
The tractor would try to start but it would just sputter and would only run if I had the throttle on full and then it would only run for a few seconds. 
I cleaned the carburetor and then I rebuilt the magneto and still nothing, I noticed when I was timing the mag, that there is very little compression on the first cylinder? I am going to get a compression tester form a friend and I will give you a update. If the valves are sticking what is the best way to get them moving again? someone told me to dump diesel fuel down the spark plug hole and then someone else told me to use transmission fluid, what works the best?
I always wanted to put a combine engine in it but I have never gotten around to it, I have heard that Gleaner engines bolt right up, is that true? and if so what models of combines would that be?
Thanks for any info

Picture http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/JacksonFender/AllisChalmersWD45Tractor016.jpg

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Burns-Tractor-Sales Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 17 Apr 2011 Location: Burns KS Points: 97	Post Options Post Reply Quote Burns-Tractor-Sales Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Reversed WD45 Engine Problems Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 10:35pm
	I have a Allis Chalmers WD45 that has been reversed, I was moving some dirt and I then parked it, I went out about a half hour later and it wouldn't start? The tractor would try to start but it would just sputter and would only run if I had the throttle on full and then it would only run for a few seconds. I cleaned the carburetor and then I rebuilt the magneto and still nothing, I noticed when I was timing the mag, that there is very little compression on the first cylinder? I am going to get a compression tester form a friend and I will give you a update. If the valves are sticking what is the best way to get them moving again? someone told me to dump diesel fuel down the spark plug hole and then someone else told me to use transmission fluid, what works the best? I always wanted to put a combine engine in it but I have never gotten around to it, I have heard that Gleaner engines bolt right up, is that true? and if so what models of combines would that be? Thanks for any info Picture http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/JacksonFender/AllisChalmersWD45Tractor016.jpg

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Josh(NE) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Josh(NE) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 11:57pm
	That would be a E gleaner combine motor that would bolt in there. I have one for sale, good compression and oil pressure, runs good. (402) 340-4782
	Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake

Dans 7080 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 05 Feb 2010 Points: 1146	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dans 7080 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 12:13am
	I may be wrong, but I have never seen a WD45 with a magneto.

Burns-Tractor-Sales Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 17 Apr 2011 Location: Burns KS Points: 97	Post Options Post Reply Quote Burns-Tractor-Sales Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 12:59pm
	Every one I talk to says they shouldn't have a mag but I have seen several 45's with mags, maybe it isn't original but it works.

Burns-Tractor-Sales Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 17 Apr 2011 Location: Burns KS Points: 97	Post Options Post Reply Quote Burns-Tractor-Sales Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:07pm
	I checked compression today, #1, 60lbs #2, 45lbs #3, 55lbs #4, 100lbs Shouldn't they all be at 100lbs? does that mean the valves are sticking? the tractor has never smoked so it shouldn't be rings? thanks for any info

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 11:51pm
	Standard next compression test, add oil to get a better seal at the rings. If the compression gets closer to normal, the rings were leaking, if it doesn't change much, the valves were leaking. Gerald J.

DaveKamp Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5891	Post Options Post Reply Quote DaveKamp Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 11:57pm
	I would lift off the valve cover and observe each valve while cranking, mebbie even use a dial indicator to measure lift... should see 'em all having similar lift characteristics, but just checking for slop in the rocker arm should tell the story. Sounds like a sticking intake valve- that'd cause such a big vaccum leak that the engine won't want to start or run. Cleaning valves in a RUNNING engine isn't too hard... with flatheads, the frequent trick is to mix in a bunch of Marvel Mystery Oil into the fuel and run it WFO 'till the world smells minty, then put it to hard work... that red stuff manages to cut lots of crud off the valve stem, and out of the valve guide, so they run again. Another thing I've done, is run the cylinder to TDC, take out the spark plug, and fish a piece of coathanger wire in there, and bend it so that it'll be in-the-way of the valve head... (so it can't fall into the cylinder)...then spray penetrant onto the stem and move it up and down by hand... oftentimes, that'll cut the goo out enough so that reinstalling the spring and retainer, then the rocker arm, will make it run well enough for the MMO to work. Some folks like to take off mags and install distributors. Some people would take off distributors and install mags. If I can hand-crank it, I tend to like mags with impulsers, but that's just me... no batteries required...