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D17 PTO Lever |
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Sitesstables ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 May 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 154 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:29am |
Happy Monday!! OK Put the new Geni and regulator on the D17 Series IV, So Feel good about that. Now my issue is that the lever on the left side that controls the PTO has been broke off. This is causing the PTO to run all the time. I can weld it back on once I figure where it needs to go so it will shut it off on and nuetral? I thought about puuting a new one on but looks like you have to split that tractor and I am not into that.. I have trouble tieing my shoes.. So if I weld it do I risk burning somethin farther up the rod?
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1965 D17 Series IV
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Drill the hole out, put lever on at about 11:00 posion and weld. Cool with water as soon as welding is done. MACK
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Sitesstables ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 May 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 154 |
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Thanks Mack!
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1965 D17 Series IV
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David Maddux ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 2528 |
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the only thing in there that can be hurt is an o-ring in the housing, do like Mack says.
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Sitesstables ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 May 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 154 |
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I think i will also gat a piece to slip each broken end into and then weld to the extra piece that way has a good clean surface and will be a bit better to weld completely around.
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1965 D17 Series IV
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Russ-neia ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NE Iowa Points: 489 |
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As long as it is the lever, it would be OK to weld. If it is the rod that goes through the housing at the bottom of the lever you will burn the o-ring, and then it will leak oil needing to be split to fix.
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The innovators offer what others will imitate.
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Sitesstables ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 May 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 154 |
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It is the rod that sticks out the side.. Will a set of visegrips work to shut the pto off.. that is all I am worried about at the moment
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1965 D17 Series IV
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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if there is enough of the shaft sticking out to wrap a rag well soaked in water around the shaft and still slide the lever back on the shaft end (with the hole for the shaft drilled out of lever as Mack suggested), I'd guess you'd be able to weld the lever back on from the outside and the soaked rag will keep the shaft going into the case cool enough to protect the o-ring. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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Sitesstables ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 May 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 154 |
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Thanks Mike.. I will work on it next week and see what I can get done. Back to the air filter post a week or two ago.. I had to order the Fram since not one store in my area keeps any CA229's in stock
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1965 D17 Series IV
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