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7040 Clutch Brake Valve
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Trev7700 View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Location: Indiana
Points: 3 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trev7700 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7040 Clutch Brake Valve
    Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 2:10pm

I have a 7040 with Powerdirector, my clutch works normal, but must not be fully engaging to activate the clutch brake. Everything is perfect except shifting the main shifter initially into gear. I've checked the cable and springs, they are working fine. The actual hydraulic valve isn't coming out far enough. When I clutch it doesn't push out all the way against the spring. Right now I have a cable hooked to it and if I clutch and pull real hard on the cable then it will shift fine without any grinding. Any ideas on whats wrong?      

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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21070 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 4:41pm
In the area you are working, it is very common to have to replace the pivot bushings on the fork that the cable connects to. Replace the bushings with new and spray WD40 or similar spray lube all over anything that moves, including the big spring. Adjust the cable so the clutch pedal "freeplay" is ZERO. If your cable is old and stiff it should be replaced as well. The ball joint on the cable end needs to be replaced if it is worn/loose and if it isn't the new style with a 1/4" gr 8 bolt thru it. The old style ball joint would fail quite easily so they went to one with a bolt clear thru it.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 9:52pm
Zero free play with engine shut OFF.   MACK
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Trev7700 View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Apr 2011
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Points: 3 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trev7700 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 1:42pm
Yeah its got zero free play. The actual little hydraulic rod coming out of the "clutch valve body" doesn't push out all the way against the retainer. In otherwords my clutch linkage and everything is fine, but my hydraulic clutch valve isn't pushing out far enough. Maybe a internal seal problem?
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Trev7700 View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Apr 2011
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Points: 3 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trev7700 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 1:45pm

Also, there is a hole in the hydraulic rod that comes out farther when you push the clutch in. Right now I have a little bolt thru this hole, and a cable attached. When I clutch and pull real hard on the cable then it activates the clutch enough to shift in smooth.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21070 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 2:20pm
Until you actually disassemble the fork and it's pivot pin and replace those two bushings, you're probably spinning your wheels.
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