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Early C motors

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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 5:33pm
Could you guys with early C's check where the engine serial# is on yours? I'd like to know at what point they moved the serial# to the side, I'm guessing before 100. Here is a better pic of mine. Thanks.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Ken in Texas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 6:49pm
I'm just guessing that the engine serial numbers got moved some time in the 41 production year. Exactly when is a good question.
    When did the BE B engines get their numbers moved from the back to the flange too?
    What are the last two numbers of your casting number Lonn?
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:18pm
My casting # ends -12 and I don't think BE motors ever were on the flange, just the CE? Does anyone have a late 1940 or early 1941 C to check?
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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DREAM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:19pm
Maybe this helps. The engine in my C was from a BE code power unit distillate engine. Late 1940/early 1941. It was stamped on the side.
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:21pm
Interesting, do you have the #?
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlenninPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:29pm
Steve at B&B has an early C we got him last fall. Maybe he can run out under the pine tree and look...
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DREAM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 8:54pm
No Lonnie. Tractor is 200 miles away right now. To clarify, I meant the engine serial number was on the left side of the engine rear flange. Just behind the air cleaner(standard place most later BE/CE engine ser#s were). Engine casting number is on the right side in the normal place.
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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DREAM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 8:56pm
Hmmm, is that some welding I see there just under the boss for the air cleaner bolts? Looks really smooth. Don't see any "peening" marks for stress relief. Maybe something else?
I wish mine looked that good. Somebody JB Welded the crack behind the carb on it. Doesn't leak, and i'm planning on pulling that motor for the "correct" CE gas engine, once I get it out of the donor tractor and rebuilt. Should be able to get around to that second Tuesday of next week at the rate i'm going.LOL!


Edited by DREAM - 12 Apr 2011 at 9:00pm
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:05pm
Dream, that weld leads into a long story with a bad ending but it was done with a powder torch.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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DREAM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:13pm
OK. Powder torch. Never thought of doing that. Did it turn out OK for you? I guess if you had the correct heat level around the area, and everything was clean, it shouldn't be a problem with bonding to the base metal. As long as it was cooled slowly and evenly, which is the case for any repairs done on cast. Concentrated heat or cool is always what causes cracking. Gradual heating to correct temp, then cooling back down slowly while relieving internal stress is key. Kinda like me and my blood pressure. LOL!
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:26pm
In theory it would be ideal and we did the heat up and cool down just like we should but the end result was failure. I think the issue was that it was cracked right where the block changes thickness so on one side of the weld it was 3/16" thick and the other side was 1/2" and we couldn't keep them the same temp during cool down. Other stuff that we welded that was consistant thickness the powder torch does a great job and looks great also.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrell, Jr. (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 10:13pm
My '39 B with BE engine has the number stamped into the rear flange, not the side...I can check to see what number it is tomorrow.  I would guess that the B and C engine stampings were both changed at the same time, and probably after they all went to the CE engine...I'm betting off the same engine line.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt (Jordan,MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 12:08am
 I have a 40 BE engine here that has the s/n on the back. It also has the bosses cast in it for the generator but the torque tube doesn't have the starter hole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 7:48am
My early hand brake C model that Glenn mentioned has Tractor serial number C3864 which I believe makes it a 1941. However, the engine serial number is stamped on the side of the bellhousing rail. The engine number is CE 4010 G. Didn't take a pic, it was raining pretty hard yet. Even under the Pine tree.... HTH
Steve@B&B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:02am
A a general rule back in the pre war days you could pretty much count on dating a B/C/RC or power unit small blocks by the last  numbers of the casting number. The first blocks cast and used in early 38 Bs ended in a 9. I presume those to be cast in 1937. Later 38s ended in a 10. 1939, a 11. 1940, a 12. and so on.
   I had a B with a BE block with a 13 ( cast in 41) that had the engine number stamped in the flange on the side. The tractor number was a 1942 and had 1 wide fender. It went to Austin, TX to be used to build a rubber tired 1942 Military B clone. I may be finished by now.
    The PU low octane fuel engine I spotted in a CA last week had a 11 casting number. No holes to mount a generator and the R2xxxK engine Number was stamped on the side flange. Everything else I have seen with a 11 in the casting has been a BE number stamped on the back of the block.
    There does not seem to be any hard fast rules to to use when matching up numbers cast or stamped in the small blocks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedBuiskerN.IL. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 9:50am
The 125 engine was probably first used in the RC.  I have 1939 RC #686, with engine #R692 with the number stamped on the flange.  It was the 125 engine as I still have the cast iron pistons I believe came in the tractor from the factory.  It sure ran smoother with the heavy iron pistons than with the new higher compression aluminum pistons I used when I overhauled the engine.  The sleeves cracked from #3 & #4 pistons overheating and seizing due to sludge build up around the rear sleeves over the years.
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morton(pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 2:52pm
My 1940 B had a BE engine with the serial number stamped  at the same place yours is stamped Lonnie.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 3:15pm
The engine I just split from my 44C is BE2099909 on the flange. Which I guess makes it a 1937 B engine... Still can't get the sleeves out, I think they are original.
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 7:50pm
Miles, seems like too many #'s in your serial #?
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:20pm
Crap, now i'm confused! LOL! It does seem like there are many variables here. I will get the engine numbers off of my motor when I get up to my dad's again(he's got my C for a loaner while i'm doing some rehab on his). I know my BE motor is a Kerosene unit. I'm just speculating that it was from a power unit, as there are holes for the genny. I think that whoever put in that engine used the hood from the power unit on the tractor, because the hood has the hole for the starter tank, the holes for the exhaust pipe brace, and the extra hole for the gas cap. It also has a brass tag on it from a road machinery company in Greensboro, NC.
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:20pm
You're right, BE20999G, it's nice that it will fit in the back of the Subaru!!! LOL
Also, my Grandad's 38'B has the starter and the genny and has never been apart since new. My mom says she never saw it apart, ever.

Edited by MilesGray (CO/KS) - 13 Apr 2011 at 8:37pm
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morton(pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 10:28pm
BE engine came out in 38....Right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 11:33pm
Miles, I imagine you'll be stopping by sometime soon to try out the JohnCO sleeve puller.
"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 11:53pm

Right, 37s were Wakeshaw flat heads.

I think Miles Grandad got tired of hand cranking that 38 and had that B apart and back together so fast nobody but him saw it happen. I have yet to see a all original 38 B with a electric starter.

I asked my dad how many different Bs he had on the farm. He said,none, we only had the 1. I asked again if he didn't trade in a 39 for a 47. He said, no. I asked again if he was sure of that. He said, Positive. That is when I showed him the pictures of both Bs with him behind the wheel. Grandma also recorded in her diary the day the 39 B was bought and when it was traded in for the 47 B. Dad had a real good recollection of everything else except his Bs.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 12:01am
Hi Farmer John
    You should see my rhubarb!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 3:28am
Morton, that engine (BE20999G) was pulled Sunday off my supposed 44C... However, considering what Ken said about the S/N's, I would think the engine is a 37 or 38.
My Grandad's tractor is a Genuine '38 and is an entirely different tractor from the one I am working on now.
Yes, John, I will call you tomorrow, I do need some help getting it out of my car... Chains and Hydraulics I think! lol.
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 3:33am
Ken,
I should say it has a starter hole, not a starter in the hole... steel can in it from 1940 or so. I am the starter... when she decides to...LOL!
Serial B5188...


Edited by MilesGray (CO/KS) - 14 Apr 2011 at 3:37am
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 2:06pm
Miles. I think your mixing up the Serial Number with the Casting Number ending in a 9 or a 10. The serial numbers are stamped into the block. The Casting Numbers are the raised numbers on the mag side of the block. The 10,11, 12 and so on are last 2 numbers below spark plug #2.
    Over on the other side above where the generator would mount is another small raised rectangle with numbers on it. Sometimes you can see at both ends of the rectangle what looks like the impression of a slot head screw. The numbers are often hard to read but it is the actual date the block was cast.
    There is also a casting date on the head down in the oil galley. You have to have the valve cover off to find it. Some heads have it, some don't, and they are not always in the exact same spot when they do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 6:22pm
Casting number ends in 11, Date on the head is 3/?/39, I did not bring it home with the block. The engine is still a long way from a 44!
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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