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7060 
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Missouri
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 Topic: Repainting my 7060
Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 10:18pm |
Im considering repainting my 7060 since Im spending money on everything else on it. Has anyone used the paint from Agco? I was considering using their paint since I can get rattle cans that come close to matching it if I need it. Does it hold up okay? I am also trying to find the cowl seal that goes around the hood on the front of the cab. Agco says its no longer availiable, are there any aftermarkets or something I can retrofit in there? Where is the best place to get decals for it that look good unlike some of those cheap looking ones on the internet. I found these but didnt know if they were good ones, http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/7060_allis_chalmer_decal_set_7731_prd1.htm . The bad part is mine is a power director and that shows the powershift console sticker. Thanks, Cody
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randy
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 6:47am |
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I used paint from Agco, used it on one tractor 10 years ago still looks good. That what i used on my 8070, 8050, and 7060.
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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Dave in il
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Manville Il
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:25am |
I've had better luck with it than automotive or the cheap Farm & Fleet type paints. It's easier to use than most auto paint, lasts longer than the cheap stuff and you can match it with a spay can, even years after the original paint job.
Also with all three versions of Allis orange, Agco paint matches every time, something no other brand seems to be able to do.
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7060
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:21am |
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I know its pretty expensive compared to the paints like tractor supply sells but if I do it I want it to last. I was considering having a paint shop mix me some automotive but I wouldnt be able to get rattle cans. Also I know this has been talked about on here before but I cant find it. Does anyone know of a rattle can that comes close to the original maroon paint on the frame?
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rieg
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 11:00am |
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I have used AGCO paint several times with good results but I also use a hardener mixed with the paint. You can get hardener at any automotive paint place just show them the paint you are using. Good luck. rieg
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rieg
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:31pm |
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rustoleum had a can called redwood I think? It was a pretty close match, though not exact. Agco still has the maroon doesn't it? Agco paint is valspar. Buy the paint from agco dealer, and get valspar hardener and reducer from tsc. Decals I would go with Maple-Hunter.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Dave in il
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 3:00pm |
 7060 wrote:
I know its pretty expensive compared to the paints like tractor supply sells but if I do it I want it to last. I was considering having a paint shop mix me some automotive but I wouldnt be able to get rattle cans. Also I know this has been talked about on here before but I cant find it. Does anyone know of a rattle can that comes close to the original maroon paint on the frame? |
AGCO is the only source I know for an exact match, same with cream for your wheels. Others may get you brands or paint codes that are close. The maroon looks good when fresh but unlike the orange it does fade over time. Possible that using hardener in the paint will help.
I still like the looks of the maroon belly with cream wheels better than the black with white. Actually I don't mind the black, IMO nthe white looks cheap and blaa compared to the cream.
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ac_bowsers
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Northern IL
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 5:49pm |
AGCO paint is what we use on all of our restorations. It shines good goes on easy. I add a super high gloss hardener from napa to paint, plus a shot of laquer thinner, not exactly scientific, but we get great results, I think Ed could back me up on our work. Decals like Ed said maple hunter is all we ever use. Seats, steering wheels, lights, battery boxes, fenders, any new replacement restoration parts use the T.H.E. Company from Mt. Pleasent IA, always treated us fair, usually always beat Steiner's prices. If you get a catalog from them our D21 we restored is on the front cover.
Maple Hunter Decals #812-894-9759
Good luck!!
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Pine Stock Farm "Home of the ALLIS" 35-WC-36-U-37-UC-47-C-49-G-57-D17-58-D17puller-63-D21-71-210puller-79-7045-83-8070-AA9675-BigTen-B10-310-1300fieldcult-snapcoupler imp.-longhopper blower,signs,etc.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:05pm |
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the shot of laquer thinner for paint of painter?LOL! Yes, Bowser's paint jobs look awesome!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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7060
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Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 10:16pm |
Does anyone have any suggestions on fixing this?
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 1:33am |
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7060...as for that cowl seal, might try an automotive window installer place, maybe they would have something thick enough and still look good. don't do like jeremy would do and use expanding foam in a can!!! lol
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AllisChalmers37
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 6:04am |
SHAMELESS wrote:
7060...as for that cowl seal, might try an automotive window installer place, maybe they would have something thick enough and still look good. don't do like jeremy would do and use expanding foam in a can!!! lol |
Hey, you wouldn't mean me would ya?? Anyway I love that stuff. Check this out, who needs rocker panels anyway when you got foam in a can? LOL If you are worried that is not my truck with the foam rocker panels I just found it on the ol' internet. 
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1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500
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Jack(Ky)
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 6:14am |
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McMaster-Carr would be a good place to check on the seal. You can pull up their online catalog and match up the profile of your seal.JP
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TexasAllis
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 7:10am |
7060 wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions on fixing this?
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To really fix it you have two options. Cut that piece completly out and replace with either a new hand formed piece or find a parts tractor and cut that spot out for a patch. I see older car restorations all the time where a new piece was hand formed due to rust. Takes time and is not easy but the end result is ususlly very good. As this is a tractor I would think the end result just need to be functional.
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BobHnwO
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 7:28am |
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My 7060 cab looks about the same,not quite that bad!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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7060
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 8:11am |
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I figured that was my best bet, Ive got 1080hrs of industrial welding school in arc, mig, and tig so i think I could get a panel welded in there but I dont know about making a panel to wrap around that corner. This is just a tractor and the main person who sees it is me but I would like to prevent it from coming back after new paint. I read somewhere about jb weld, how good would that hold up?
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tomdavison
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 9:15am |
For good rattle cans, I have used paint from AMAC located in Iowa. They have been on the Forum recently. The paint is good and matches well. I was using PO 1.
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pineyjd
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 1:23pm |
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I made cardboard template of rusted metal area bend & went to junk yard,found ford pickup bed had right shape to weld in the hood on my I 40.
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7060
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Posted: 10 Mar 2011 at 7:38pm |
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I went to agco today and was going to pick up the paint but he said my year still had the persian orange 2. I was going to go with the corporate orange. What would look the best?
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randy
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Posted: 11 Mar 2011 at 6:48am |
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I like corporate, its pretty close the the persian 2, to each there own.
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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