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Poll ......Painting quality |
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 9:07am |
Well after looking at the GOTO pictures, I thought I would ask you for your opinion.
I personally enjoy looking at a tractor that has had extreme care taken to get the paint right, and on the right places/parts. I am not a big fan of overspray, wrong color parts, 100% coverage paintjobs (wires, coil caps, everything) I would like to hear from all of you as to what you like, and I am sure there are good reasons why some don't do it the factory way, and I would like to hear those resons as well. I have always been a fan of if your are going to do it, do it right. Maybe I am wrong, please feel free to post any idea, and no fighting!! :)
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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Denis in MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832 |
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I like to do accesories up in black and paint rims silver and do little details but I don't like the factory way of painting becuase what I have heard from alot of people it that it was 100% coverage, if somethink was on the tractor when it rolled to the paint department it got hosed with orange, but that is what I have heard I wasn't arounbd when these tractors were made.
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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redline ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Collins, IA Points: 1013 |
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I like accuracy to the original version, but I can understand, and many times have taken "artistic license" on a repaint. If I think it will look good because of contrasting colors or might be authentic to what it looked like while on the job-such as black starters and generators, black steering wheels and distributor caps. I think I can make a pretty good argument for doing things this way.
But, it all comes down to how each individual wants the machine to look. I can only hope we don't venture too far from the original, I want future generations to have an accurate view of how it really was.
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If it weren't for the last minute, I wouldn't get anything done!
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Zyta ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: Ontario Points: 238 |
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With cars & tractors/equipment I prefer to see things restored back to factory original. If this is done right by masking off the rims/tires etc..and it's given a good quality paint job the way it came out of the factory the original/original version looks great!
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23698 |
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To me a 'restored' vehicle is one that is 100% the way it came from the factory.Same type of paint,colours,nuts,bolts,clips,options,etc. ANYTHING else should be called 'refurbished'.All of my stuff is 'refurbished' and I say that upfront.
I appreciate the time and effort that goes into getting old iron back on it's wheels,but when I see a 'restored' vehicle not 'factory right', I mentally deduct points. Not taking tires off rims is a 'cheat', makes me wonder what other shortcuts were done,same as not taking off the windshield moldings(trim) on cars.
Nowadays there are lots of aftermarket or NOS parts companies making it easy to find and buy the correct pieces.
I know farming was(and still is ) a labour of love and you won't get rich, so I understand why farmers 'haybailed' their equipment to keep it running,but if this is a hobby(esp. one for shows) then spend the coins and do it right.It's more satisfying in the long run.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Gordy ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SWMI Points: 2533 |
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I appreciate a nice clean paint job with the elect carb wheals ect. the correct color but I like the color Persian orange 2 much better than the No. 1 that to me looks kind of anemic so I do not worry about slight difference in shades just make it look good to me with persian orange 2
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Bull ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Sep 2010 Location: Lamar, Missouri Points: 589 |
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I like the paint to be as close to original as possible. When I see a 50 year old tractor with a shine a foot deep it just does not seem right. But... if that is what you like go for it!
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AllisFreak MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1556 |
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I agree Gordy persian 2 looks better even if not original.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Greg (Hillsboro, OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hillsboro, OH Points: 1182 |
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orangeblood, i've seen many post here that ORIGINAL off the line DID include everything being sprayed orange (wires, carb, etc) as was mentioned above, as I understand the factory did spray it all orange, so that is original.
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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My thoughts on this is I'm only trying to please myself and I'm the most important. I'm in the process of restoring a Ferguson F40 and the origional paint looks like the color of baby crap. It's going to get a bath in Massy Ferguson red and everything will be based on what I think looks good and not the factory. There was a reason that they changed the colors in 1957 to red.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1247 |
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I personally try to keep it as close to original as possible where possible, with some exceptions. I use the right color paint (not counting the oops on Lil' Allis, most already know that story...) but don't go the whole base/clear coat system, because that is TOO nice for a tractor in my opinion, and not original.
I Don't paint cap, wires, and carb orange. To me that looks sloppy, even though it is original. (Carb is left bare because it will eventually leak and get ruined anyway) I do paint the generator and starter orange though, because most times this is original. I mask off the black part of the steering wheel, but the spokes are orange. Again, to me this looks cleaner. Over spray on tires is a BIG NO NO! I hate that, looks totally sloppy and lazy on the restorers part. Decals are placed in there CORRECT locations. Don't know how many tractors I have seen with them in the wrong locations. And I mean not just off an inch this way or that, but completely in the wrong spots. Do your research people, the info is out there. I try to paint all my nuts and bolts too, not replace them with chrome ones, etc... And lastly, I try to get original parts, or ones that look original whenever possible. For example, to me nothing sticks out like a sore thumb like a shiny alternator fabed up on a tractor that originally had a generator, and touted as being "restored". It's not. Now a days you can get a alt that looks like a gen if you are going that route, make the effort to make it at least LOOK original. But to each his own, and if that is what makes them happy, then that is all that matters.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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All very valid discussion. I guess I am not trying to put off anyone, I am sure there are lots of variations on what factory orriginal really is; that's the reason I joined this forum, is to get your input, as I don't know. What I am reffering to, are things like: overspray on things of a different color, some things painted, while others left undone, etc. I know this is a hobby, and many don't have the time or money to "finish" everything by show deadline, doesn't mean you can't be proud of it, but when I see someone display or parade a tractor that is cleary not done right, as if it were, I just shake my head. It is important to note that I am not saying anything in those pics is done that way, I didn't talk to the owners, don't know their intent, and more importantly I wasn't there. It just reminded me of other shows I have been to, and this kind of thing happens. Edited by Orange Blood - 26 Feb 2011 at 11:45am |
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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GregLawlerMinn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226 |
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I agree; "restore" means returning the machine back to original, "refurbish" (or rehab) means to fix it back to good working condition (sometimes this includes"upgrading" such as 12V electrical, EI, etc) and to look good. I appreciate the labor and time spent by those who restore (and use the correct fastners, parts, and paint); however, its not for me. I believe that tractors were meant to work and get dirty doing so; and a refurbished, or rehabbed one does just that...and it can look nice doing it. Paint is meant to protect the metal from rust, as long as it is Orange (and not pink, blue, red, or green), its OK to me.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
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Ken in Texas ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919 |
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Before PO#2 and Corporate Orange there was PO#1. If your old enough to remember when all the Allis in the fields were PO#1 your old enough to know what the word "RESTORATION" means. Sorry folks, but the first thing I see is the shade of AC restoration orange chosen by the restorer. If the AC shade of Orange don't fit the vintage period of the unit its painted on it does not qualify as a acurate restoration even if everything else is top notch.
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DarrylinWA ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Amarillo Texas Points: 1900 |
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I agree with alot of the above comments. It all starts with the base of your paint when you finally shoot the thing in the CORRECT color. I have seen some super paint jobs on tractors, but when they paint it the wrong color, or wrong shade of orange, it can ruin the tractor as I am concerned. If all possible sandblast the thing if you can or use a good oven degreaser if all possible on the motor and prep very good. I am doing this Industrail D 21 right now and going all out on it. Rebuilding the engine (KevininWA) New rear 24.5x32's and new fronts. Going through the tranny and resealing if need be differnet points along with newe gaskets. Yellow will show black very good if you know what I mean. I am going Basecoat Clearcoat on this tractor. This will be our familys most extensive restore, but my Dad always said, "Any job worth doing, is worth doing right the first time !" We even clearcoated the rear and front rims with new rubber 24.5x32's. I will even put SS Allen button head bolts on the sheetmeatl pieces and the plastic chrome caps on some of the wheels and some other areas like the semi trucks. I will spend the time and even line up the bolt heads so they all look the some. I have always been a detail freak and being a machinest, I take great pride in my workmanship. Since our club is hosting the 2013 GOTO and the feature tractor will be the D21 and also the 50th Anniversary of this great tractor, I am putting a little extra into these tractors. I am not saying our way is the best, but this is just what I like to do. Differant strokes for differant folks.
Just my 2 cents worth and thanks for this topic.
Take care, Darryl Krause, Lynden WA.
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B 10 Custom. Serial # 1001 D21, First D21 built 69 #4498 and Last D 21 Built #4609. 1946 MM UTU. And 2000, 2005 Pete's. AC custom Hauling.
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Gordy ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SWMI Points: 2533 |
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Ken I am old enough to remember when a brand new Allis B was delivered to our farm to replace a team of horses and I also remember when I saw the first D series with PO 2 paint and thought wow they should have all been that color and mine are.:)
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R.W ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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Iv watched the promo video for the wd45 and it showed it in the paint booth and they painted what ever was on the tactor and that was the wires, cap, plugs, carb,stering wheel, ect.. But i dont really like that I would paint it the color and the way i like it as im the one that owns it and i dont care who says i painted this the wrong color ar did this wrong. Its mine and im painting it the way i want to. Just my 2 cents
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Reeseholler ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Mar 2010 Location: Port Matilda PA Points: 294 |
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For the stuff I do, I like the generator, cap and plug wires to be black. I also prefer to mask of the tags on the genny and the starter. Especially on the black generator, the silver tag contrasts nicely. The way I see it, if somebody puts sufficient effort to make it look nice and somewhat close to factory, it's a pretty decent makeover. A lot of people (like me) don't have the time to do a complete restoration in which case I think a fairly decent repaint is fine. I don't care for the ones that just brush paint over the original. Not criticizing those that do, just my personal preference. I walk around the shows and not every tractor looks the same, but the way I see it, at least somebody cared enough to try. If every tractor was restored, I don't think that many people would be interested. Just personal opinion.
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9559 |
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Starters generator carb and steering wheel are black on all mine. I use po2 on all of them. The reason I use the po2 is because they all match every time. I really like correct po1 but I've seen so many wrong po1 tractors that look brown or other colors. I think the color of the krylon spray paint is the closest I've seen to correct po1. I also paint all radiators black and mask them off when I paint the hood and grill. I also sandblast all sheetmetal bolts and paint the sheetmetal complete on the tractor minus the manifold starter dist/mag and wireing. My favorite paint is nice original but all my tractors are scrapyard saves with a lot of replaced or repaired parts . I have a friend with a wd45 all original that's nicer than any old original I've ever seen and I would rather have it than the nicest painted one I could ever find.
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AllisFreak MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1556 |
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Why does it seem like there's 5 different shades of PO 1? I've noticed that too.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Allen Dilg ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NE IL Points: 820 |
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Hello All!! I personally don't have a problem whatever you do with your tractor as long as you don't say "po # 2 is CORRECT for pre 1959 tractors.
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Dave in il ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Manville Il Points: 1748 |
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I like PO 2 and the previous owners of my WCs and WD did too because that is what they painted them. I repainted my WD45 PO 2 back in 1983 with Allis paint and I can touch it up with a spray can from AGCO and it still matches. If you want correct PO 1 buy it from AGCO, everything else seems to vary but AGCO paint doesn't fade and has always been the same in quarts, gallons or spray cans.
I'm going to paint my early and my bar grill D17's this year, they will be PO 1 with the correct decals. I've never restored a tractor, but I have fixed up and repainted a few. I'm never going to worry about the correct police, it's my tractor and I'm the only one I have to please.
My hats off to those of you that have the skill, time and the money for an every bolt is correct restoration and I appreciate them. I also like to see nice original tractors
However my tractor will be close, but with modifications that have been made over the years left alone. Like the Knoedler replacement seat on my uncle Bob's D17 or the foot brakes added to my unstyled WC, oh and I don't know if the WC had black wheels from the factory but it does now, because I like them. I wouldn't have cream wheels on my WD45, but I might paint the front rims silver, like the D series because the WD I bought is that way and think it looks sharp. LOL
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farmer0_1 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Location: cornelius or Points: 592 |
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i am not to picky but i must say i don't like the hoses and wires painted , that being said i have done a few that went right back to work making hay. the worst one i did was my 2840 jd i painted it with some rhodda jd paint and it came out olive green . boy after that its only paint from the paint shop.
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Ken in Texas ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919 |
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Allen Dilg,
Correct me if I should go so far astray as to promote painting all Allis Chalmers Tractors PO#2 just because I think it is a nicer looking orange.
Seems like taking away the historical accuracy of a restoration with personal AC paint preferences other than what is considered correct is not restoration money well spent. I know it always goes back to "It's mine and my money". I prefer to error on the side of historical accuracy especially when it comes to painting a Allis.
Mention has been made above that no acceptable standards are available for the 3 AC shades of Orange. Would you care to comment on what OEM paint color code standards you commonly use for judging correctness?
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Zyta ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: Ontario Points: 238 |
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I also agree the AC tractors I've seen in Persian Orange #2 look nice. Can anyone give me the correct paint code and name for Persian #2 paint. Thanks
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5870 |
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I suppose that if you want to be a true restoration 'purist', you must not only use the absolute correct paint shade and type for the restoration, but also the exact same technique... AND you must know WHY they used a particular paint, and when it changed, WHY they changed it.
I don't recall the specific tractor brand off the top of my head... may have been Twin City/M-M, or the like, but during the 'teens, one company that also manufactured agricultural equipment, had a government contract for production of machinery going to the Newport News shipyards. They had geared up for substantial production due to WW1, however, the armistice included an agreement with Germany to stop all production of certain types of surface warships. This left the contractors in a world-of-hurt... immediately putting thousands of shipyard workers and contractors in the soup-line. Well, the contracting company was left sitting on thousands of gallons of Navy ship grey paint. So they used it as the 'new' tractor color... and continued buying up surplus NG paint from other contractors as they used their stores. The unfortunate part, was that the shelf-life of the paint wasn't quite as good as what we have now, so they added thinners and mixed it to make it workable. As a result, the shade varied as the paint was used up, so much that one could tell what month the tractor was made, due to the shade of grey. For the Farmall crew, I can tell 'ya this much- I've got a dozen local buddies who retired from the IH Farmall Rock Island works, and every one of 'em agrees that when a guy blocks up, removes tires, bead-blasts his M down to bare metal, masks it all off, applies primer, then paint, then clearcoat... that he did at least six times more than they ever did at the factory... they weren't concerned with overspray... because they frequently exhibited cases of UNDERSPRAY... IMO, there's plenty of documentation out there of what these machines SHOULD have looked like when they came out of the factory, so I'm not gonna nitpick a guy for anything aside from being righteous. For the most part, the paint formulations and techniques we use nowdays, is so much better than what they had then... and a guy working in his shop has no pressure to keep the assembly line rolling. I think old paint is cool. I think farm-applied repaint... responding to agricultural necessity... is cool. I think battle scars are cool, and leaks are there to let you know that it still has oil. I think hand-starting an electric-start engine 'cause you don't have an extra battery (or the battery is dead) is cool. I like seeing a tractor come down the road with one headlight pointed down... if the farmer wanted it up, he would'a turned it that way, he probably had it down for a reason. I'm impressed by a guy who loves machines, and shows his appreciation to others by interacting with those who see, but don't understand. In my opinion, the essence of 'carrying the flame'... is not just to carry and walk, but to share it- pass a little bit on to others, so that they can build their own. |
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7393 |
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To me, restoration is more than just a paint job. It involves complete removal of oil, grease, and dirt from the surfaces to be painted. Replacing any seals or gaskets that leak (or are questionable). Also, fixing any place where previous generations got out the welder. While everything is stripped down, do a nice paint job with a correct color. Then put back together piece by piece. Over spray is just not acceptable - looks lazy and cheap. Why paint it at all if one is going to do a crappy job on it?
It's important to note, many manufacturers back in the day did not spend much time painting because it would have taken too long. You never saw a nice factory paint job for this reason. They painted over everything, and left runs all over the place. These are not things to mimick in a restoration.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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AllisFreak MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1556 |
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If you want the restoration to look original shouldn't it be repainted in the same manner as it was originally? Runs, imperfections and all?
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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My $.02 worth is first you make YOU happy since it's yours. Second, I'll say painted over rust/dirt/grease/dents does look like crap to me. I'm not a perfectionist, but respect those who are. I never belittle someone else's work since not everybody has unlimited funds and skills. It's all about doing what you are able to. The most important thing I think is saving old tractors from being melted down in China.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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I'll add that yes, I know my '58 D17 is supposed to be P.O. 1, but I too prefer P.O. 2 as well.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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