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WD Engine Rebuild

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Tim in MN View Drop Down
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Joined: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Floodwood, MN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim in MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WD Engine Rebuild
    Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 10:39pm
I've read through all the manuals (factory) about rebuilding the 201.  I would think that modern technology would have caught up with these things by now to get rid of the rod and main bearing shims.  If nothing else, would it do any good to get the block line bored and resize the rods to get the correct bearing crush?  With the combined knowledge on this site there should be a solution to this. 
 
Thanks, Tim.
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Wes (VA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wes (VA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:06am
There's nothin' wrong with getting some shim-stock and put the rods and mains back together that way...or you can have your machine shop resize the rods and main caps..for a fee of course!  shimming takes a little more time, but it just about outweighs the cost of having all that machining done  IMHO.  Now if you're gonna turn some rpms..you might wanna go the first route? someone who builds higher hp engines will chime in soon.  
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Matt (Jordan,MN) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt (Jordan,MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:59am
Every engine i rebuild i get it line bored. I rebuilt a WD engine years ago and had to by new shims becouse there wasn't the correct amount in the engine any more. The new shims costed about the same amount to get the block line bored and the rods honed out to get rid of the shims. I also tried to rebuild a WD45 engine with out line boreing the block but when you tightened up any main cap  you couldn't turn the crank. I measured the main bearing bore and it was correct from top to bottom but side to side it was.005 smaller than spec. I took the block back to the machine shop and they said that happens when you run a engine with worn bearings for a long time.  My personal opinion is get the block line bored and the rods rerounded and start putting it back together.   matt
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KC-WD45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KC-WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 2:06pm
 I might be wrong but I bought a new set of shims from agco for my 45 last winter and I don't remember them being expensive.
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SteveC(NS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveC(NS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 2:25pm

Tim why would you expect technology to be updating antiquity? We're lucky enough to have aftermarket people answer the oldtime requirements for these fine pieces of machinery.    Would you expect GM to produce technological advancements for something like the Vega aluminum four with it's cast iron head?

Matt I'd be afraid to get any machining done by someone charging less than the shim packs for an AC engine. Sorta threatens the credibilty of the entire post.
Line boring and rod resizing is definitely the BEST way to go but Allis designed most of this stuff so a farmer could do repairs himself and get back to work without re-mortgaging the farm.
Just my 2 cents Cdn.
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