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Welding Table |
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Eric NY ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Perry, NY Points: 59 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Feb 2011 at 5:59pm |
I would like to build a welding table. Does anyone have any ideas and/or pictures. I think I would like to have it on some type of casters to move around the shop......but maybe it would be better to have it stationary and heavy for stability. I want to have a big vise for sure and a shelf underneath. Thanks, Eric NY
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wfmurray ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Bostic NC Points: 1225 |
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Made one at plant once don,t remember the size . It was about42 x60 inches x 3/4 in thick . Thicker the better! Had 6 in vice with cabinet under neath. Make closed cabinet with doors to keep out dirt and etc. Store rods and jigs in cabinet and before long you have enough weight so you don,t move when pulling on stuff in vice.
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Roddo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Jul 2010 Location: Brant, Ontario Points: 466 |
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He nailed it. I made one the exact same way at work. 3/4 plate top with heavy angle iron legs with 3/4 flat plates on the bottom of each leg. 3/4 plate shelf about 8" from the floor welded to the legs. Same size vise. That table will not budge when I am beating the hell out of something in the vise. |
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5868 |
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My preference for a welding table, is to use heavy steel strips or channel iron, with about a 1" gap every 6" or so... that way, I can bring clamps up from underneath to hold things in position while I tack it all together.
The other thing to keep in mind... is that oftentimes, people use welding tables for cutting, and sometimes, for working on componentry. If cutting, realize that your torch will make a mess out of the tabletop, and send spatter around. If using it for componentry, realize that said components will oftentimes leave oil on the table, and if oil and debris accumulates below the welding area, you'll have a nice little fire there. Best to think really, really hard about what you want it to do, and then make compromises in your design according to the level of your priorities. Also... putting wheels on it... make sure they're hard, noncombustable wheels, preferably large diameter, because you'll be rolling on spatter, and dropping hot stuff all over 'em. Next... if you're expecting on beating on it, and making it heavy enough to take that beating, expecting it to be mobile isn't compatible with an incredibly massive table. Finally... when you build your table, build matching 'work stands'... something you can easily slide around, to give you an additional support point at fairly-close adjustable height. Invariably, a guy will be working on something like a sickle mower, and the bar will be flopping on the floor, causing the rest of your work to jump up. Rolling a stand underneath the far end (it's several feet off your table) really helps. For fine adjustment, I make my work tables out of old trailer jacks... just turn the crank a half turn to change the height. |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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There is a great table in the shop where I used to work. We salvaged a table off an old horizontal boring mill and added legs to it. I think its 4'x6'x 6 inches thick, and it has 3/4 tee slots about every foot. It is great for clamping a bent shaft down and pota powering it back straight. I don't suppose too many guys have an old boring mill tables laying in the junk pile though. Charlie
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Dean/MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Oak Grove, MN Points: 740 |
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I just bought a table with a 6" vise on an auction last weekend. It has WD frame rails welded together and a sheet of 1/8" steel on top of that. At least I saved some allis iron from going to china. I am also thinking about adding 2 sets of casters to it so I can move it around.
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HD16,917H,185,7050,8030FWA,8050FWA
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Allen Dilg ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NE IL Points: 820 |
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My son came up with a 2000# hyd scissor lift that will raise to 54" . He took the 1/4" top off and put a 1" ground plate 60"x 80" on. It adjusts by 2 peddels to what ever height needed. Great for larger items, start at eye level and lower as needed.
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9550 |
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My dad built one out of 2 steel wheels off of an old pull type combine or somthing. one wheel sits on the floor with 4 pipes sticking up and the other wheel is the top with 3/4 inch plate welded on top. Make the top a couple inches bigger than the wheel for a good place to clamp and hook ground.
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swit ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Dec 2010 Location: mid mi Points: 68 |
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I used an old conveyor frame worked out pretty good put quarter in steel on top used the same style for drill press table frames were free we all like free
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