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Couple of questions... |
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arkfisher ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Sardis, AR Points: 128 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 9:04pm |
I'm a long way from it, but I was looking for decals for my tractors and I'm having a bit of trouble. How do I tell what series my tractors are?
I have the serial numbers, but not sure where to reference them. I thought my D17 was a series III, but the series III decals has a large allis decal as does the series II. Both my 17 and 15 have the metal plate that has allis chalmers imprinted on it... not a sticker.
Also, I recently rebuilt the carb on my D15 and I'm about to on the D17. I noticed the same thing on both tractors (rebuilt and not)... on the breather side of the carb when I disconnect the hose there is about a cup of gasoline in it... is this normal?!? I'm thinking that my float needs to be adjusted, but not 100% sure and wanted to get advice before I mess with it.
Thanks in advance. Richard
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D15 #3057
D17 #36222 F-12 Farmall #FS42332 |
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MNLonnie ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Baxter MN Points: 4791 |
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According to my book your D17 is a 1961 Series II and your D15 is a 1961 Series I but I don't know anything about that new of tractors as far as stickers or plates.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7392 |
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First of all, D17 Series II and III do not use the the same decal. The metal plate that you mention means that (both of) your tractors are from the early 1960s. Your D15 would be a series I and your D17 would be a series II. Since you have the serial numbers, they can be matched up on the forum by using the link on the home page.
About the gas in the breather tube, it could either be the float out of adjustment or the needle and seat needs replacement. Gas really does a number on those hoses, but new ones are available through AGCO. The ones they sell can handle gas better than typical rad hoses.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Rogers ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Georgia Points: 2176 |
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The metal plate on the D15 is definitely a series I.
The gas in the hose shows that the needle in the carb isn't working. Since you have rebuilt one and still have the problem it may be adjustment. It may be that something in the fuel lines has caused the needle and seat to leak. You might want to take the carb back apart clean the carb again. A filter in the line from the gas tank can help if there is a rust problem.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7392 |
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Forget the inline filter. Get the tank cleaned and clean the strainer/screen and you will be all set.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Rogers ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Georgia Points: 2176 |
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Myron is right. Cleaning the tank would be best, but the inline filter can help if the amount of rust is small. A filter is a short term fix. Cleaning is a cure.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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