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Waste oil heater |
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dsteidley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Lander, WY Points: 14 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 Feb 2011 at 9:00am |
I am trying to figure out how to burn waste oil in my wood stove to heat my shop. If any of you have good ideas or experience please let me know. Sorry if I posted this on the wrong spot on the forum but hope it will be ok.
Thanks, Dave
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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I've seen it posted on YT mag . com some folks have devised a drip system to feed a wood stove. I think they have some type of drip pan for the oil to actually burn in and maybe start it with kerosene.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3861 |
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I set one up to use on my coal stove in the shop. I soldered a 1/4 " brass fitting into the lower side of a large coffee can and attached a shut of valve and a length of 1/4 " copper tube. It sets on the concrete block wall behind the coal stove and drips the oil onto the burning coal. I adjust the valve to get a steady drip and it will burn up a couple of coffee cans of used oil per day. Also cuts down on the amount of coal used.
I got the idea from one of Roger Welsche's books. He built one and fed the tube through a hole drilled into the top of his wood stove. |
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Goose ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Melrose, Wis Points: 2471 |
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You can drip the oil into a cast iron frying pan inside a wood stove. There was some discussion on this forum previously as to how to make one.
The best one I have seen is in Mother Earth News:
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JayIN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Location: SE/IN Points: 1982 |
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I built one like the Mother Earth one, with several modifications and tweaks over time. Works like a champ! Will glow red hot if you dont watch it. you need to fine tune the flow onto the drip plate with a NEEDLE VALVE. I dilute 8 gallons of FILTERED used oil with 1 quart of kerosene. Helps if flow better. Viscosity changes as the room warm up, so you have to fiddle with it some. 8 gal will burn 10 hours or so. Best thing I ever did. Eliminates a lot of cabin fever. I can work out in the shop any time I want now and not think of the cost of heat!
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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Here is a much simplified version built by the guy that did the Mother Earth stove.
http://www.journeytoforever.org/RSwoh1.html Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 03 Feb 2011 at 12:02pm |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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I built a small "jet" pump that hooks into the secondary air inlet of my wood stove in the garage. I have a 1 lb. coffee can with the pump attached that plugs right into the front of the stove. I start a fire with wood, turn on the air compressor, fill the coffee can up and open my 10 psi regulator to the jet pump. It sucks oil out of the can and blows it in a mist right into the fire. Upside is I can heat my garage on 1/4 to 1/3 of the wood I used before burning oil. The down side is you have to listen to the air compressor run every 10 minutes or so.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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JayIN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Location: SE/IN Points: 1982 |
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Roger Sanders is the guy I copied. the key is DOWNDRAFT and ATOMIZATION of the oil. That guy is a genius!
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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dsteidley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Lander, WY Points: 14 |
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I think you are exactly right--you must have a downdraft. I have tried using the air intake system on the woodstove (updraft) and it does not work. I have been hesitant to cut a 4 inch hole in the top of my stove but if that is what it takes I am willing to do it. Any more feedback or details would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Jay, can you be more specific about down draft? Also, how did you atomize the oil? I was thinking about something like a small pump run by an electric motor might work well.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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Brian, look at the link I posted. All combustion air comes from the top center of the stove. If you light it like you are supposed to, and get the draft going up the chimney, everything works. This new style that was developed over time has no pump, oil is "atomized' or gassified by heat from the fire.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Steve M C/IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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Charlie; your link don't go anywhere except "try Google" and that don't get ya squat either.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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It works fine for me. Gooses link doesn't work for me. Are you sure you clicked the right one?
Now the one Goose put up works too, but that Mother Earth burner is really complicated compared to Rogers updated design. http://www.journeytoforever.org/RSwoh1.html Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 03 Feb 2011 at 8:15pm |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Steve M C/IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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HMMM! that's weird...the new post worked so I tried the old one and it worked now.Friggin computers!!!Tried 3 times before and no go. |
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farmer0_1 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Location: cornelius or Points: 592 |
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Edited by farmer0_1 - 03 Feb 2011 at 11:54pm |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9550 |
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I'm interested in any more info about these. I'd like to know what type of oil pump I would use for this. I plan on building one before next winter. I've heard many stories about the drip system needing to be adjusted so i'm thinking a pump system is what I need.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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The link Charlie posts doesn't show much picture wise. Just a short description and a PayPal link to purchase the plans to build one. I think pump wise I have some good candidates that were from very old oil burning furnaces. Seems like I've read that the guy started with an old water heater tank.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9550 |
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I did more digging this afternoon on the links from Charley and Goose and found a new design and I'm getting ideas from Farmer 0_1. It sounds like they got the gravity system working good but I want to light it early in the morning and go back out after it warms up a little. I'm just afraid that the gravity system needs regular attention especially at startup.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Here is a link to someone who built a Roger Sanders design one and all the things he figured on the way. Fairly decent writeup with some good pictures. I have always wanted to make one but like all projects, I don't have the time to get to them. |
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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farmer0_1 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Location: cornelius or Points: 592 |
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i bought my pump from Heco ag. just do a search they sell whole stove kits to but i just ask for the pump it seems to me it was at least 200 bucks. but well worth the piece of mind for me. as far as building it I hook a dryer fan up to the burn box and drip oil in from top of stove over burner. have fun drilling all those little holes , tried bigger holes didn't work as well.
Edited by farmer0_1 - 09 Feb 2011 at 10:19pm |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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That makes more sense with the pics from the waste oil stove forum. I don't like the oil bucket up on top of it. Unless you had some kind of pump, filling that bucket could be messy.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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m16ty ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 28 Jan 2011 Location: TN Points: 1474 |
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All we did was to drill a hole in the top of the stove and installed a pipe nipple, some copper line, and a valve to control flow. Oil drum is mounted higher than the stove so it's gravity fed. You do have to use wood for this setup and have the oil drip on the wood. It does use alot less wood and gets hotter than just wood using the oil drip.
A word of caution, If you install a oil drip into one of the commercially made home wood stoves it won't last long. Whe we first started using oil we had a Ashley stove. It didn't last long before we burnt it up. We then made a stove out of 30" gas pipe and you won't burn that one up.
Another thing you need to remember is to turn the oil off when you leave the shop in the evening. The wood will burn out and the oil will just smolder until morning and fill the shop with soot and smoke. Ask me how I know.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23684 |
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Humour me guys, but can't you just filter the waste oil really well and use it in an oil furnace,maybe with bigger jets? I'd think it'd be easier.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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Jay, people have tried for years to make a waste oil burner like that work. You end up spending more time cleaning and relighting than you do burning. That's why the Rogers waste oil burner works. No pump, no nozzle , and no clogging.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23684 |
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I knew someone would have the answer !!! Thanks
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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farmer0_1 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Location: cornelius or Points: 592 |
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i built a dragon waste oil burner that shot the oil onto a target. really made an impressive flame when it wasn't clogged up. it used compressed air and a ventury so the oild didn't have to go thru any small holes. i tossed it in favor of this one i use now. no regrets .
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m16ty ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 28 Jan 2011 Location: TN Points: 1474 |
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Do a Google search for "Babington burner". I looked into one of these awhile back but never got around to building one. The great part about this oil burner is it's fairly simple and you can use dirty oil without problems.
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