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185D Brake emergency |
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NDCurt ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Points: 75 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 29 Jan 2011 at 2:15pm |
I need some info on 185 brakes. My son was trying to haul some hay and the right brake locked up and then it let loose but now it seems to be jamming intermittently. Backing up a couple inches seems to loosen it and then it will go some more. I'm thinking that something in the brake is broken and jamming. Also, no more brake pedal resistance goes right to the floor. One of my big issues is that I'm 1500 miles from home and trying to figure out how I'm going to get this going. Do you think this will do further damage when it jams? Thanks
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powertech84 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 467 |
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Don't know much about those tractors, but it sounds like what would happen if the friction material came loose from the backing plate.
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R.W ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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I had problems like that with my farmall when it was not adjusted right. |
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Burgie ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Scottsburg, IN Points: 1192 |
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Sounds like the linings are wore out and the balls are going too high in the ramps and are sticking. The balls and rams could be wore out as well.
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"Burgie"
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AMB(wcIL) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Oct 2009 Location: Chapin Il Points: 299 |
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Sounds like one of the springs that hold the two halves together broke. Had that happen on the 185 we had back in the day. Wheel would lock up back up a little it would release, I was able to limp it back to shop and replace the linings,balls, and springs. Andy
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JoeO(CMO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Cent Missouri Points: 2694 |
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A spring broke on Dad's 185, same symptoms. I replaced bands, disc's and all the little springs in the disc thingy's on my 185 a few years ago when I put a ROPS on it and didn't want to go back in it any time soon.. The little springs are cheap, but labor intensive. I put this together after I completed my 185.
Drain fluids as needed. Soak the top pivot pins on brake bands, they will most likely not come out easily, may need a hot wrench for them. Remove anything mounted above the fenders, like ROPS, canopy. Remove batteries, battery box, fenders and platforms.
Use safe supports under differential housing and hitch area to support SAFELY!
Remove wheel weights, then remove the tires/rims from the centers, this I thought would be easier to attach chains to for hoisting to the wheel center and housing. Attach chain(s) to the axle, supporting axle as in line as possible, remove nuts from axle housing and remove axle.
You will want to put new seals in the differential carrier bearings, inspect “O” rings closely, its easier to replace them now vs do it later when you don't have the time to do it.
The left side is the easiest and I started on it first, your preference. The hydraulic control assembly will need to loosened and maneuvered slightly and some linkage disconnected to remove right axle, take your time, it can be done. I did the left side first (the easiest) then went to the right.
I did my 185 some years ago and may have forgotten a few little things but you will see these as you work along the way.
I hope this is clear to understand, HTH Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 29 Jan 2011 at 7:48pm |
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2494 |
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I'm with Burgie and AMD. I'd bet they're correct!
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NDCurt ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Points: 75 |
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Thanks, it appears that this is going to be a brake job. Anybody got a drawing out of the service manuel (would be interested in purchasing one) I imagine the cab is going to have to be tilted back to get at this and all the rest of the stuff. Not a good situation with my feeding tractor under the weather and me out of town.
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Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 963 |
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D17 IV had the same problem. New disc and drum brakes (just bought the liners and rivets) and never happened again. Probably should have probably replaced the ball bearings and springs too but didn't. Took about 5 hours per side. 2 man job is best and safest.
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m16ty ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 28 Jan 2011 Location: TN Points: 1474 |
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This can also happen when the brakes get so worn that the balls jump out of their sockets. Whatever it is you're going to have to get in there to fix it. Not to discourage you but they can be a real pain in the rear to work on.
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acd21man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Location: tn Points: 831 |
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we did that once
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2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7392 |
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That happened on my 175 some years ago. Needed a whole brake job.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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NDCurt ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Points: 75 |
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Thanks for the info. I'll have to see if my mechanic friend has his new shop up and going as it sounds as if this will be a bit beyond my level of shop/tools/expertise. Hopefully it will be able to move a few more bales around until I get home (2 1/2 wks).
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