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HagerAC 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
Points: 1201
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 Topic: 7010 engine overhaul
Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 10:52am |
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My open station 7010 started dripping coolant out of the breather this summer and parked it after I noticed it. I'm not sure when it started but it wasn't this way when I had the valve cover off late last winter and have only put less than 10 hours on it in the spring Have since dug into it and found a leak coming from between the number 6 sleeve and block. It is tired and needs a freshening up anyway. Wondering about what kit to use. I did put an Absolute kit in my 190xt a few years ago and have been happy with it. Seemed like a good kit and would probably go that way again. I have also found a kit from Federal Power Products, wondering if anybody had any experience with this kit or not? I am not interested in a Reliance kit. Thanks
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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tbran
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Paris Tn
Points: 3588
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 3:51pm |
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Sounds like you need block work more than an engine kit. I would check sleeves for roundness and re ring if ok - you will have to do a close inspection to determine what is needed - you are going to have to spend the money sleeving the block bottom bores quite possibly and by all means re-bearing all.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2218
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 4:00pm |
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We rebuilt a 301 in our 200 January 2024. Used a Reliance kit from Agkits. Bought the gasket set from Agco. We were satisfied with the Reliance kit. Tractor starts and runs perfect. Gonna split an XT tomorrow for a rebuild. Plan to do it the same way. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Leon B Mo
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 22518
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 6:01pm |
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For best results, remove the oil pan FIRST and pressurize the cooling system to 100% absitively determine where the leak(s) are coming from before you rip it all apart.
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SilverShoes
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Joined: 20 Feb 2014
Location: Seneca, Kansas
Points: 175
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 7:39pm |
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I replaced my 7010 head because it had cracks around the injector sleeves. I used a 200 head because they didn’t have sleeved injectors. Could your leak be coming from the injector sleeves or head cracks?
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HagerAC
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
Points: 1201
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 8:53pm |
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No it's from the bottom between the sleeve and the block on number 6. I had allready pulled the pan, pressurized the system and had the block heater plugged in yesterday and had a pretty steady drip.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8809
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Posted: 03 Dec 2025 at 9:36pm |
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Uncle had to sleeve the bottom bores on a 7020. 301 known for electrolisis down low.
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HagerAC
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
Points: 1201
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Posted: 3 hours 1 minutes ago at 8:36am |
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So I am in the process of putting this thing together. Got the sleeves in and main bearings in. Got rods and head back from machine shop a couple days ago. I did order new rod bolts and was assembling pistons to rods and putting new bearings etc. in rod. When I went to put the new rod bolts in I am having difficulty getting them to thread into the rods and they also do not want to fit through the caps very well. They will begin to thread in but then they get tight. The rod bolts I ordered from agco, but I don't like the way they fit and will probably just reuse the old bolts. Has anybody else had an issue with the rod bolts from agco. I believe they are sourced from ARP.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8809
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Posted: 2 hours 11 minutes ago at 9:26am |
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The ones for the 426 I have used have ARP stamped in them.
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tbran
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Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 1 hour 31 minutes ago at 10:06am |
301 Rod bolts 74024583 have never been an issue. The 426 were the ones changed to ARP many decades ago by request of the AC service department. The new bolts should thread in by hand if the old ones will - otherwise I would not use them - Somethings wrong. There were two rods on the 301 - the old ones had 6 point and the 12 point bolts will not interchange w/o machining the old style rods - the old bolts are NLA.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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HagerAC
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
Points: 1201
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Posted: 1 hour 4 minutes ago at 10:33am |
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Yep that's the part # of the bolts, but they will not thread in maybe more than a few turns and they get tight. They will thread into a fine thread 3/8 nut just fine as will the old ones but not in the connecting rods.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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Michael V (NM)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NM
Points: 2530
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Posted: 28 minutes ago at 11:09am |
hmmm,,, whatever ya do, I wouldn't re-use the old rod bolts. maybe get a NEW tap and die and run the threads on the bolts and rods... look into newer rod style that fits the new bolts?.?.. yea, I know,, more $$$ to spend,, but I really hate to see you open a window in the block after ya done all this work.. or maybe contact ARP and see if they have a solution....
Edited by Michael V (NM) - 28 minutes ago at 11:09am
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