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Valve Clearance

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AC720Man View Drop Down
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    Posted: Yesterday at 1:03pm
Working on my D14, replacing the valve cover and manifold gaskets. I am going to check the valve clearances and make any adjustments if necessary while I have the valve cover off. Since many components have been removed to prep for paint I can’t start the engine to get it to operational temperature as the manual recommends. Question is, is there a big difference checking them cold versus hot? .012” is what the book calls for. Obviously much easier to check them at this point with all the sheetmetal off, or should I wait until I put it back together to get it up to operational temperature?
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 2:05pm
I always set them cold, and add about .002" to the hot spec. I've never felt I could go through them all quick enough hot to be the same temp from start to finish. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 2:36pm
I agree with you ED, it wouldn’t be consistent on a hot engine by the time you went through them all. So you would set them at .014”? The book gives a range of .012”-.014”.
Thanks
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 2:40pm
Probably so. Intake lash usually tightens up over time, exh usually gets loose. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 3:04pm
I would set them cold at 0.014" and forget about it. Back in the day I set the valves on my 1955 Ford with the Y-block 272 hot and running. What a mess!

Son-in-law has a 53 F-350 with a 292 and I just adjusted them to zero clearance cold and then opened them up 1/4 turn. It works out the same Tongue


Edited by Les Kerf - Yesterday at 3:07pm
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 4:39pm
The oily mess was my other concern Les. I’ve adjusted cold on my D17D and other tractors I have but just wanted to get some other opinions. I don’t recall adding any though which I understand why it’s suggested. Thanks to both of you.

Edited by AC720Man - Yesterday at 4:42pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clayfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 5:56pm
Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray?

Edited by Clayfoot - Yesterday at 5:56pm
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Jim.ME View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 hours 19 minutes ago at 8:15pm
With a .012 to.014 range l would go .002 over mid-range (.013) and set them at .015 cold.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 34 minutes ago at 9:00pm
For some reason seems like valves get adjusted to tight on old tractors,with low RPM motors like in old tractors I've found a little loose is better than a little tight.
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 31 minutes ago at 6:03am
DrAllis suggested .015 cold several years ago. Since then, I have always used this setting. No problems, so far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 9 minutes ago at 6:25am
.015" COLD for intakes and exhausts on all West Allis built 4 cylinder engines. While some want to re-invent the method, this has worked for 50 years for me and is EASY to remember and do.
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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 hours 36 minutes ago at 6:58am
Originally posted by Clayfoot Clayfoot wrote:

Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray?

I've seen it done on V-8's with hydraulic lifters. I can not imagine trying to do it on a mechanical lifter cam.

I hate 'hot' valve lash specs. Like Ed said, who's fast enough to get them all set before the engine is cool? I recently set lash on my Farmall 450, they have a hot spec. So I added .002" and set them cold. Will check them after first run at head re-torquing time. Also put the head on the 756 gas yesterday, another hot spec. Will do same procedure as the 450.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 38 minutes ago at 9:56am
I had a learning experience this morning I thought I would relate;
Reading the manual for the 756 where it talks about valve lash it has a footnote. It says, "engine warm means any temperature above 32 degrees F.". Well, that's a bit different than my thinking of warm! Guess I'll have another look at the 450 manual and see if it's the same. May be tightening them up a couple thousandth's.

I have no idea if Allis, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, used this description.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 59 minutes ago at 11:35am
Originally posted by IBWD MIke IBWD MIke wrote:

Originally posted by Clayfoot Clayfoot wrote:

Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray?

I've seen it done on V-8's with hydraulic lifters. I can not imagine trying to do it on a mechanical lifter cam...

My late Father-in-law had a handful of old beat up feeler guages from his years as a service station mechanic back in 1950's-60's.

As I mentioned above, I have done it on old Fords in my youth but have since been enlightened Big smile


Edited by Les Kerf - 5 hours 57 minutes ago at 11:37am
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 3 minutes ago at 2:31pm
When I see the valve lash specs, they usually say cold, as in ambient temp, or hot as in engine up to operating temp. I have never seen one give a spec for actual cold temps.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Ed (Ont) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 20 minutes ago at 4:14pm
I have always done valve sets at ambient temperature. Add .002 to the spec as all others have said! 
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