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SteveM C/IL 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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 Topic: Home heat oil stove
Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 11:19am |
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I've got an old Monogram oil stove that was used for home heating. Has a reastat run fan built in to oil flow control. Just lately has started to lose fan speed after an hour or so running. Visual inspection of reastat and electronic spray cleaning hasn't changed anything. Fan spins freely and have oiled it to boot. Is it the fan motor dieing or reastat failing? Have owned it 50 yrs. I suppose a voltage check out of reastat is what i need as it just starts slowing down. Shut it down for a while and it works again. Don't know what to do. Used to heat my shop. Any ideas? TIA that fan has alot of hours on it. How would a pro diagnose it?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 1:06pm |
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i would bypass the thermostat.. Run power straight to the fan and let it run wide open all day long... Would be a good test to determine if the motor has a problem... Old windings could be breaking down when hot, or bearing could be expanding with heat and causing a little drag...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 1:38pm |
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Yeah i wonder if it has brushes. Need to try your suggestion first before tearing into. I don't understand why stuff don't last forever......
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Lars(wi)
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Permian Basin
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 6:12pm |
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Are you using ‘electric motor oil’?
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 6:32pm |
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It is "3 in 1" oil. Isn't that correct?
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 7:04pm |
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3 IN 1 is good for door hinges, bicycle chains, etc. There is specialized oil, for electric motor bearings. I do believe the makers of 3 IN 1 do market a specialized grade of lubricant oil, with ‘For Electric Motors’ printed in bold lettering on the front of their little cans.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Walker
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Location: oh
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 9:10pm |
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Go to a Hobby Shop and get some of the stuff they use on model RC airplanes and car motors. It made me a believer on a grandfathers clock works that refused to run on 3 in 1 oil. More reastats that came to me ailing needed to be cleaned or replaced, more than oiled.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 11:05pm |
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I washed down the reastat coil with electrical contact cleaner. Didn't oil it.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: Yesterday at 4:13am |
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Main issue is time on rheostats. Moisture and/or damp air to being close to the higher heat of a machine or furnace having ill effects on moisture delivers really foul corrosion or in air mineral buildup. At the nuke on a number of the oldest systems we actually had instructions to periodically ‘Wipe’ the system rheostats to burnish the buildup of corrosion or mineral deposits off.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: Yesterday at 2:41pm |
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IR gun says 150 deg middle of motor housing after 25 min run time. I would think that is bad. Little ole motor has Little load on it. Heat off just fan running.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - Yesterday at 2:42pm
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DMiller
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Posted: Yesterday at 3:59pm |
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90, maybe 100F, chances are has lost winding varnish integrity.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 21 hours 17 minutes ago at 7:54pm |
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I'm going to see if i can find a replacement. Have good picture of tag on phone.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 17 hours 25 minutes ago at 11:46pm |
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Not alot of success finding motor. 1475 rpm 115V .35amp continues duty 60CY,protector 67A45. I'm not much for electronics. Can you use a rheastat on any single speed motor to trim it down on rpm without harming motor? Does it require a "special" kind of motor?
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 16 hours 60 minutes ago at 12:11am |
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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 7 hours 30 minutes ago at 9:41am |
buy a cheap motor like Coke posted, that will fit in the hole... Dump the rheostat and just run a constant speed motor with an on- off switch.
justs run power direct to the PRESENT MOTOR and run it constant... see how that works for a TEST.... 150 degree on the windings is acceptable, if it stays in that range... but anyway would be a good test to see how constant "ON" works.
another option is to use a fan / motor running at constant speed and use a rheostat to control a damper that restricts air flow.... think of the old CHOKE on a car engine, that warmed kup a spring with temp and OPENED the choke plate... no motor involved
Edited by steve(ill) - 7 hours 12 minutes ago at 9:59am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 7 hours 22 minutes ago at 9:49am |
there are some motors like a variable speed hand drill that work OK.. But MOST MOTORS do not like the drop in voltage from a rehostat.. Thats why NEW SYSTEMS us a Variable Frequency Drive unit.. You keep the VOLTAGE up to keep the POWER running thru the motor.. and you reduce the FREQUENCE to drop motor speed..
YES.. running dropped voltage on a standard motor is a good way to burn it up.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 5 hours 8 minutes ago at 12:03pm |
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Got better pics and some info I posted was wrong. Ask a member to post them for me.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 2 hours 33 minutes ago at 2:38pm |
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You can buy a Box Fan with a variable speed motor for less that $25 and could use that motor for your present fan blade .
Seems a lot of the older oil space heaters just relied on radiant heat and air flow from cool to warm to create movement .
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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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