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Digitizing 35 mm Slides

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BobDinNC View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 8:52am
I'm seeking advice on DIY devices to digitize 35mm slides. We have hundreds of slides we want to sort through and digitize some of them. I think buying a home device (not a cheap one, but a good) is the way to go, but would like to know if you have done this yourself and what equipment did you use plus any advice you can offer. 
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BuckSkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuckSkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 4:55pm
The common consensus amongst the photography sites is that setting up a decent camera on a tripod and placing the slides on a homemade light-box and photographing them is far superior to any of the purpose-made "digitizers"

A LED flashlight with a large lens - large enough for a slide to lay on - can be your light-box.

You just need to anchor the flash-light so it will remain exactly in one place and rig some simple guides on the lens so that the slides always land in the exact same spot.

Thus, once you get your camera and tripod situated, every "scan" will be identical in size and all will be centered instead of being chased around.

Regardless of whether you do this with a camera or with a purpose-made digitizer device, once you get all your slides digitized, they will still be "Negatives" and also not color correct.

You will have to use a program like simple Photoshop Elements to make them viewable.

If you go with Photoshop, I strongy recommend one of the much older, mush stabler, much more user-friendly versions with no version more recent than Elements 12 and I much prefer Elements 7 over that; but, anything 12 or older wil be fine.

Anything more recent is just asking for a bunch of unnecessary headaches and won't do the job any better and maybe not as well.

Totally FREE GIMP is well capable of the task; however, seeing as you are here asking how to do this, GIMP may be way over your head; I have been doing this for years and GIMP often feels way over my head --- but is FREE and it is POWERFUL --- just not for the timid-hearted.

Download it for FREE, install it on your desktop, and watch some YouTube videos specifically for using GIMP to digitize slides and you can learn it soon enough --- actually easier if you don't know a thing about any other program as that will only confuse you when using GIMP.

Another FREE photo editor, fairly easy to use, is Picture Window Pro.

Chasys Draw IES is another good FREE one.

XnViewMP, also FREE, can probably do what you will need and it has a huge support forum where you can get questions answered.

Actually, if you only ever look at a single photo, there are three FREE programs that I wouldn't be without
1. = FastStone Photo Viewer - a definite must have that I use a thousand times every day
2. = digiKam - has the absolute best bullet-proof rock-solid keyword tagging ability that trumps anything anywhere no matter how much it costs
3. = XnViewMP to quickly view any and all types of photo metadata and edit that metadata.


I hope I haven't given you information overload --- just know that no matter how you digitize your slides, you are still going to have to "cook" them before you can view them.


Although any old digital camera can photograph slides and do a good job, the more megapixels the camera has, the larger the end product will be.

This is hard to explain --- it has to do with resolution.

I guess a simple explanation is the more megapixels the camera has, the more digital content you will capture in your photographed slides and the larger they can be viewed and printed.

That is something you should ask before laying down your money for any purpose-made digitizer = what are the end pixel dimensions of the end product --- how big is it going to be.

A bunch of postage-stamp-sized photo files aren't going to be very useful nor viewable on anything larger than a cell-phone screen and that is what you will get with many of the highly advertised digitizers.

To give you something for comparison, straight out of the camera photo files from my Canon 7DMkII with 20.2 megapixels capability are 35mm equivalent 3:2 ratio and measure 5496 x 3670 pixels.

YouTube has a gazillion videos about using a DSLR camera to digitize slides.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 4:59pm
We built a house in 1980 and i took color photos on film.. Had them developed and put in a scrap book... About 2000 i decided it would be NICE to have them as JPG files on a computer... I did what Buck said... Just opened the scrap book to a page and started taking photos of each picture with a Digital Camera... Then i had them all INSIDE the digital camera and easy to download on the computer and put in ONE FILE..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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BuckSkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuckSkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 5:10pm
One more very very important point about all this = make sure whatever camera you use is capable of producing RAW files --- take your photos using RAW and not jpeg.

Then, edit and enhance them while RAW before converting them to jpegs.

You can just do a ton more "rescuing" and improving with RAW files than you can with jpegs --- RAW files are just a lot more forgiving and have a much greater "depth" of usable and rescueable content.

Most decent cameras have the ability of producing TWO photos per shot, one RAW and another jpeg --- use that capability and keep/save the RAW files until you learn how to use them; you will still already have the jpegs to look at and play around with; but, a day will come when you are damn glad that you also have the RAW files to really make all this effort worth your while.
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BobDinNC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobDinNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 hours 41 minutes ago at 8:36am
BuckSkin, Thank you! This is far more, and better, advice than I ever dreamed of getting. I hadn't considered putting together my own apparatus using my own camera to do the job and I didn't know it would require "cooking" the images to make them viewable. I've never used PhotoShop, but my wife has and she loves working with old photos, so that is doable for us.
I appreciate the recommendations for software and the sources of information. I hope it will be acceptable to contact you again when I getting in to this project later in the summer. We are on our way to a family vacation and will bring home a box of several hundred slides my father took between 1950 and 1970. This will be my fall and winter project.
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Greg (Hillsboro, OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg (Hillsboro, OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 6 minutes ago at 4:11pm
Buckskin, you said they would be 'negatives???  Slides have color correct, and not the 'negative' image like regular photograph negatives, or am I missing something?

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BobDinNC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobDinNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 36 minutes ago at 6:41pm
While we do have many negatives that might be digitized, the immediate task will be a collection of 35mm slides.
I have started watching YT instructions on digitizing slides and think we should be able to do it.
 Question: will my 18-105 mm zoom lens satisfy the macro lens requirement? I have a Nikon D3200 with a Nikon DX AF 18-105 lens.
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BuckSkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuckSkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 4 minutes ago at 7:13pm
Originally posted by BobDinNC BobDinNC wrote:

 Question: will my 18-105 mm zoom lens satisfy the macro lens requirement? I have a Nikon D3200 with a Nikon DX AF 18-105 lens.

I am not familiar with that lens.

Look at the description and see if one of the words is Macro.

Also, look at the specified minimum focus distance.

Most ordinary lenses will begin to lose focus at about two to four feet; any closer and good sharp focus is questionable.

I have no idea why they chose that word, "Macro", but, a Macro lens can keep focusing almost until it is touching the subject.

You can get around the lack of a genuine Macro(closeup) lens by using either(or both) Extension Tubes or magnifying Closeup Filters.

Extension Tubes usually come in a set of three and you can use any single one or any combination of the three to achieve your goal.

Extension Tubes fit between the camera body and the lens, spacing the lens farther from the "sensor".

Extension Tubes will need to fit your camera model, just like the lens.

Magnifying Filters usually come in sets of three or four and must be bought to fit the lens you intend to use them with, governed by the size of the filter threads at the far end of the lens.

They screw into the end of the lens; common sizes are 58mm, 62mm and 72mm.

So long as the diameter/thread size is correct, Magnifying Filters are NOT camera specific.

Neither of these need be the fanciest most expensive; a $20 set of  Extension Tubes and a $10 set of Magnifying Filters will do the job just as well as a more expensive set --- just make sure you get Extension Tubes that have electrical contacts that will carry the auto-focus and Aperture signals from the lens to the camera body.

You can look these up on Amazon and the amount that will come up will keep you occupied for several hours looking and learning.

Before spending anything, set the camera/lens you have on a tripod and zoom in and focus on something that is the same dimensions as the viewable part of a slide - not the outer size of the cardboard frame; something with a lot of fine detail, like a postage stamp or a dollar bill folded to be the right size.

You want to completely "fill the frame" with the slide(your pretend slide at this point).

If you are too close to achieve good focus, move the camera farther away and zoom in tighter.

Snap several photos at various distances and zooms to see if what you have will do what you want.

You will want a remote trigger, $10-$20, that will allow you to take pictures without touching the camera; thus, you can get things set up rock solid and not be wiggling things around by working the shutter button. 
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 58 minutes ago at 7:19pm
  • Versatile Zoom Lens: This Nikon AF-S DX VR 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED lens offers a versatile focal range from wide-angle to telephoto, making it ideal for various shooting scenarios with Nikon DSLR cameras.
  • Vibration Reduction Technology: Engineered specifically for this lens, Nikon's Vibration Reduction (VR) system enables handheld shooting at up to 3 shutter speeds slower than normal, ensuring sharp images even in low-light conditions.
  • Superior Optics: The aspherical lens element and Nikon's Super Integrated Coating (SIC) virtually eliminate aberrations, enhance light transmission, and offer superior color consistency, resulting in high-quality, sharp, and vibrant images.
  • Close-Up Capabilities: With a minimum focusing distance of 1.48 feet and a maximum reproduction ratio of 1:5, this lens allows for creative close-up photography throughout the entire zoom range.


Edited by steve(ill) - 4 hours 57 minutes ago at 7:20pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AC7060IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 52 minutes ago at 8:25pm
I just use my iPhone’s camera to capture a picture(prints,slide show, or screenshots) into electronic form. The phone allows me to choose it’s standard resolution or high resolution. The high resolution offers better detail & so are much larger in KBs(kilobytes) than standard resolution.
Once I have an acceptable picture on my phone, then I use the phone’s edit mode to enhance lighting, crop off unwanted borders, etc. The newer phones can really do a good job editing.
Once editing is complete, then iPhone can share photo to my email, online photo storage, iCloud, etc,,,,,.
Then later open email or online storage (Dropbox) on my desktop/laptop to save photo onto a memory card, resize if needed, or don’t mess with it at all & just know it there.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 32 minutes ago at 8:45pm
I think BUCK is more of a professional hobby/photographer.. High quality, lots of pictures, great hobby.......... the rest of us are taking photos with a cell phone or $150 digital camera..... not the same quality, but  VERY GOOD compared to what was available 20 years ago...

I am more than satisfied with a cheaper camera taking photos of old pictures to digitize them..... all i can say is try it once and SEE if you like the quality.... Step up to BUcks recommendations if you want  more professional quality.


Edited by steve(ill) - 3 hours 30 minutes ago at 8:47pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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