1945 G model Carburetor

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   First, let me say thank you, for allowing me to be a part of this community. My background is automotive technician. I am a retired Marine and line tech. A friend has a 1945 G Allis and Chalmers tractor with a TSV 13 carburetor on it. He had the engine overhauled a year ago, and it ran great for about an hour. He said it started acting as if it was running out of gas, and has not run correctly since. 
I removed the carburetor, took it completely apart and cleaned it. I ordered a kit from Amazon to rebuild the carb, and replaced everything in the kit. While tearing down the carb, I noticed a foam type screen on the adjusting screw on the bottom of the carb. The kit didn't have this in it, and I can't find a picture anywhere showing it. I put the carb back together, leaving out the torn screen, and we still have the same problem. I adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw on top to one and half turns out. The bottom adjuster, I set at one turn out. The plugs keep fouling with fuel. I am not sure of the firing order, but the two middle plugs are always covered in fuel and the two outside are not. The tractor tries to run but will not. Puffs of dark gray smoke come from the exhaust when trying to start it. 
Can someone tell me what the foam type screen is for? The bottom adjuster seems very loose, and it seeps fuel from it. Could this be a timing issue also? 
Any help is highly appreciated. 

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cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 1945 G model Carburetor Posted: 03 Jun 2025 at 11:48am
	First, let me say thank you, for allowing me to be a part of this community. My background is automotive technician. I am a retired Marine and line tech. A friend has a 1945 G Allis and Chalmers tractor with a TSV 13 carburetor on it. He had the engine overhauled a year ago, and it ran great for about an hour. He said it started acting as if it was running out of gas, and has not run correctly since. I removed the carburetor, took it completely apart and cleaned it. I ordered a kit from Amazon to rebuild the carb, and replaced everything in the kit. While tearing down the carb, I noticed a foam type screen on the adjusting screw on the bottom of the carb. The kit didn't have this in it, and I can't find a picture anywhere showing it. I put the carb back together, leaving out the torn screen, and we still have the same problem. I adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw on top to one and half turns out. The bottom adjuster, I set at one turn out. The plugs keep fouling with fuel. I am not sure of the firing order, but the two middle plugs are always covered in fuel and the two outside are not. The tractor tries to run but will not. Puffs of dark gray smoke come from the exhaust when trying to start it. Can someone tell me what the foam type screen is for? The bottom adjuster seems very loose, and it seeps fuel from it. Could this be a timing issue also? Any help is highly appreciated.

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Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11965	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 8:14am
	The TSV Carbs as small as they are have their issues. From lose throttle shafts to deteriorating bowl floors, the white metal these things are made out of are what causes most of the problems. That loose enrichment assy, another issue with the white metal. Threads get worn out. I've found if they're not to worn out, a little pipe dope on the threads and then thread the assy in till its snug not tight will sometimes remedy that problem assisted with a gasket. Not sure what foam thing yer' talkin' about. Firing order on a G is 1-3-4-2. Number one being at the Radiator. Check the floats to see if they are taking on fuel. Pull em' out, and give em' a little shake. If you hear sloshing, the floats are sinking and its flooding. If you have Champion Spark Plugs in that engine, take them out, throw em' away and install either 295 Autolites or NGK plugs. HTH. Steve@B&B
	39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Hubert (Ga)engine7 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6430	Post Options Post Reply Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 9:08am
	Welcome to the Forum and thank you for your service. Steve is the best on carburetors and ignition for the vintage Allis tractors. He gives great advice and he also can do parts and rebuild if needed. Hopefully things are improving around Asheville. It was quite a mess when I was up there at the end of October.
	Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2673	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 10:44am
	Since the engine is in backwards #1 is at the rear of the tractor. Crank pulley end. If the foam is on the threaded exterior part of the adjusting screw was it put there to maybe stop the screw from turning like a spring would? Just a thought
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7460	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 10:21am
	Gs were not around in 1945. 48 Was the first year. I would check the gas tank for any crud and debris that may be in the bottom - might need a good cleaning.
	'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2673	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 11:13am
	Both of mine did the same thing. I did as you have no luck. Changed the condensor for a capacitor (I know same thing) from a friend. Problem solved. Sometimes we chase fuel problems when it's electrical.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 hours 13 minutes ago at 9:43pm
	Let me list everything I have done- Rebuilt the carburetor completely. Set the main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. Replaced the fuel tank and cap. Replaced the points and condenser. Set the points to .020 Replaced the coil. Rebuilt the wiring harness. Someone had wired the coil backwards, and left the output relay unhooked. Replaced spark plugs and wires. It has been upgraded from 6v to 12v using a GM 1 wire alternator. The engine was completely overhauled at a local tractor repair shop. It will start up and run, but die after a few seconds (10-20). I pulled the plugs after flooding the engine and found the number 3 cylinder soaked with fuel and the other three dry, but all the plugs were covered black. Since rebuilding the wiring harness, it will now start and run a few seconds. I'd like to check the timing, but I am not sure where the timing mark for number 1 TDC is located. Is it on the front crankshaft pulley somewhere? Thank you all so much for the advice. This thing is whipping me, but I refuse to give up! ****Update** I found the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. A vertical line. Should it be at 6 o' clock when number 1 is TDC? Edited by cabinfourus - 9 hours 40 minutes** ago at 10:16pm

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 hours 10 minutes ago at 9:46pm
	You would be correct. My fingers were ahead of my brain. It is a 1952-53 model.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 hours 8 minutes ago at 9:48pm
	That is exactly what I am thinking. Someone had wired this thing up backwards. The coil's positive lead was connected to the points, and the negative to the switch. At this pint, I am willing to try anything.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 86630	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 9 hours 18 minutes ago at 10:38pm
	Rebuilt the wiring harness. Someone had wired the coil backwards, and left the output relay unhooked. what does that mean ? "relay" ? Is this a resisitor for a 6v coil to work on 12v ?... if you have a 12v coil, you dont need a resistor.. Edited by steve(ill) - 9 hours 15 minutes ago at 10:41pm
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.