7060 powershift issue

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   Just joined the forum to hopefully get some help diagnosing my 7060. My issue is when I start tractor and have powershift in neutral it starts clunking. If I shift into 1st or 2nd it acts normal then 3rd-6th it clatters in all gears. In reverse is makes a grinding sound and tractor doesn't move. Does the same in high and low range. 

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Farmerandy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: Yesterday Location: Saskatchewan Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote Farmerandy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 7060 powershift issue Posted: Yesterday at 4:26pm
	Just joined the forum to hopefully get some help diagnosing my 7060. My issue is when I start tractor and have powershift in neutral it starts clunking. If I shift into 1st or 2nd it acts normal then 3rd-6th it clatters in all gears. In reverse is makes a grinding sound and tractor doesn't move. Does the same in high and low range.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21238	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 5:02pm
	Well, it surely has to come out and be taken apart. It needs to be parked in a place where the engine and front axle can be rolled ahead at least 5 feet. More room is better. Swing out the batteries and remove the power shift valve and set it off to the side. Place a bar under the clutch housing ahead of center where the valve sits. If you can pry it up and down any amount, that means the nut inside the bell housing has come loose. Transmission removal and tear down is required. I would also drain the transmission oil and inspect for debris located at the suction screen. That too helps determine what may be wrong. It could be terribly worn out and flattened out rubber cab mounts. This is why these two inspections are important to do first. Edited by DrAllis - 23 hours 5 minutes ago at 7:24pm

Lynn Marshall Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2325	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lynn Marshall Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 hours 14 minutes ago at 9:15pm
	I always preferred to spin the rear wheels out before I took the valve body off. Now, this is assuming that it has the spin out wheels and that the transmission will have to come out. If you have no reverse,then that wheel would have to be done by hand. Your tractor may already be on a wider setting than I normally see. And if it has duals on it or non spin out rims, you may just have to tackle it that way. You will appreciate the extra room if you can get those wheels out.

Farmerandy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: Yesterday Location: Saskatchewan Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote Farmerandy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 hours 9 minutes ago at 9:20pm
	Thanks! Gonna Hopefully get it in the shop next week and start splitting it.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21238	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 hours 46 minutes ago at 9:43pm
	DIAGNOSE it first !!!!!!

tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3452	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 8 hours 49 minutes ago at 9:40am
	Doc is correct - check it out - The clutch pack for reverse that is good because it pulls in the gears is used in 3-5 - 6th is a different set. The gears turn all the time except in Neutral and in reverse. A real puzzle - unless the front nut or snout is broke off.
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..